Sanwa PFX KW0606A, True Flat screen and 15khz

[bagheera369]

OK great, thanks. My MiSTer setup is hooked up to a Grundig with the Blast City tube, so the output will be 15Khz by default. If everything works I can start building a .ini file for MiSTer with custom resolutions to make use of the multiformat capabilities.

Kinda funny that the Power Input is wired like that when there's options for both 220V or 100V, but when in Japan it makes sense. Thanks again

No worries!

The arcadeotaku wiki has all the pinouts for that plate of yours, for all connectors, so if you need reference, it's a good place to look.

 

[nem]

Kinda funny that the Power Input is wired like that when there's options for both 220V or 100V, but when in Japan it makes sense.

The options are there for the demag coil. The coil is energized with AC from the mains.

The chassis is otherwise auto switching.

 

[Slypty]

I've imported a Sanwa KW0606A (untested) from Japan that I started a recap on yesterday, some of the caps were already replaced, one which was the incorrect value (2200uF instead of 220uF.)

The recap gives me some hope the owner knew the FBT wasn't gone. The arm of the FBT is pretty loose and there's corrosion in it so I'm a little worried. I haven't bothered firing it up yet, there's certainly issues.


I found the big white ceramic open, it's a 15R 5W resistor with a couple transistors tied to it beneath (under the green tape). One of the transistors reads abnormally, it's likely bad I just haven't pulled it yet. I don't know of any schematics for this Chassis, my guess is that this area is some type of switching for Standby (if there's any).. it does tie into a FET a little further down the chassis.
Anybody every have this issue or seen it before?


This resistor by the FBT is also illegible, it reads about 160K, I've looked at photos Online but can't make a definitive value just by eyeballing.

 

[nem]

some of the caps were already replaced, one which was the incorrect value (2200uF instead of 220uF.)

There's supposed to be a 2200uF cap right next to a 220uF cap. What list are you comparing against?

The arm of the FBT is pretty loose and there's corrosion in it so I'm a little worried.

It's glue, not corrosion.

I found the big white ceramic open, it's a 15R 5W resistor

It's a ceramic, it's more than likely fine. Are you testing it with a normal multimeter? If it's very low resistance, it can show open.

This resistor by the FBT is also illegible, it reads about 160K, I've looked at photos Online but can't make a definitive value just by eyeballing.

Mine is also completely whited out. Would need to remove and measure.

 

[Slypty]

There's supposed to be a 2200uF cap right next to a 220uF cap. What list are you comparing against?

There's quite a few errors and misses in this list: https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/retro-hardware-capacitors-lists.10800/page-10
Though the 2200uF the former owner put in was at C826, which I think you're right is 220uF, the 2200uF is at C836. I've updated that list and still making corrections currently.

It's glue, not corrosion.

Thanks good to know

It's a ceramic, it's more than likely fine. Are you testing it with a normal multimeter? If it's very low resistance, it can show open.

It's definitively open. It's a DMM but it doesn't have issues with low resistance. I'll double check but 90% sure

Mine is also completely whited out. Would need to remove and measure.

Ok . By Online pics I believe it's 160K, hard to see it but I see brown and blue as the first two stripes, maybe 150K.

 

[nem]

Though the 2200uF the former owner put in was at C826, which I think you're right is 220uF, the 2200uF is at C836

C826 2200uF 10V
C828 2200uF 25V

C836 is unpopulated.

@trashedcabs' list has a typo.

It's definitively open. It's a DMM but it doesn't have issues with low resistance. I'll double check but 90% sure

Remove to be sure.

 

[Slypty]

C826 2200uF 10V
C828 2200uF 25V

C836 is unpopulated.

@trashedcabs' list has a typo.

Thanks for clarifying! By the footprint size C828 is actually smaller than C826, so my instincts told me 220uF must be right..

Remove to be sure.

She's open for sure. Doesn't register on either of my Meters.
I updated the List, hopefully someone can change it to be correct. Though C420 I'm not 100% sure is 3.3uF or 33uF. TrashedCabs list shows 33uF, but the replacement in my Chassis was 3.3uF.

 

[trashedcabs]

Thanks I have fixed my list. C420 is indeed 3.3uf.

BTW, there are redrawn schematics here https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Sanwa_PFX

 

[bagheera369]

Hope this helps.

 

[Slypty]

Hope this helps.

Thank you! That helped more than I thought it would. That looks to be an 82K resistor (Gray, Red, Black, Red, Gold.) Which means mine is way out of spec reading 160K.. @nem should be notified in case his is also out of spec.
The Big Cap beside it was also open on mine, so I should really inspect that area a l lot more. Seems like I've got some uphill pedalling.

 

[bagheera369]

Thank you! That helped more than I thought it would. That looks to be an 82K resistor (Gray, Red, Black, Red, Gold.) Which means mine is way out of spec reading 160K.. @nem should be notified in case his is also out of spec.
The Big Cap beside it was also open on mine, so I should really inspect that area a l lot more. Seems like I've got some uphill pedalling.

I have a chassis that has almost zero hours on, so it's in immaculate shape.

If I can help with anything else regarding photos, just give me a shout.

 

[imbord3rlin3]

Hope this helps.

Can u tell me the value of that diode at D416? I have one that completely exploded i need to replace

 

[bagheera369]

Ooff...let me see if I can get a zoom to go clean enough on that, so that I don't have to try and pull it, and resolder in that tiny ass space.

 

[trashedcabs]

It's UF204