Sega Astro City - Complete dead monitor?

[kazuma]

If you want to get rid of it, you need to ground your cab by replacing the two prong power cord with a 3-prong one that has a grounding connector.

Noted, although I actually have done this already as a precaution. Assuming I either did it wrong, or it's because it's being tested outside of the cab without any of the grounding points?

Also, gave the board a full recap, but it still seems to exhibit the same behaviour as before. Is there anything else I should try checking? And does it matter which direction the degaussing coil is connected to the board (I've re-terminated the lines for it).

 

[nem]

or it's because it's being tested outside of the cab without any of the grounding points?

It's this. The bottom floor of the Astro is grounded and both it and the PSU case are metal.

 

[kazuma]

Couldn't figure out the issue after recapping, so I just got the board repaired by a professional. The tech sent me video footage of the chassis working without any issues, so once I got it back, I reassembled the cabinet and re-wired everything and got some less-than-ideal results:

Aside from the monitor, literally everything else works perfectly; controls, coin mech, and even the marquee light (which surprised me the most, since that was in terrible shape). Here are some more close shots of the blurry monitor.

Anybody familiar with this type of issue? I'm so close to finally getting this up and running and it seems like this is the last major hurdle. Not experienced enough to diagnose this, but I will also note that the degauss button on the PSU doesn't seem to work despite having re-terminated the previously cut lines.

 

[astro_zombie138]

Couldn't figure out the issue after recapping, so I just got the board repaired by a professional. The tech sent me video footage of the chassis working without any issues, so once I got it back, I reassembled the cabinet and re-wired everything and got some less-than-ideal results:

Aside from the monitor, literally everything else works perfectly; controls, coin mech, and even the marquee light (which surprised me the most, since that was in terrible shape). Here are some more close shots of the blurry monitor.

Anybody familiar with this type of issue? I'm so close to finally getting this up and running and it seems like this is the last major hurdle. Not experienced enough to diagnose this, but I will also note that the degauss button on the PSU doesn't seem to work despite having re-terminated the previously cut lines.

On the monitor chassis there's a big black block with a red wire attached. There should be two knobs on it and one is labeled FOCUS. Turn that knob slowly and see if that makes the image sharper,preferably using a non conductive screwdriver. Be careful not to touch anything else including that red wire.

 

[kazuma]

Definitely got it into a better state than it was initially, but I seem to be having difficulty getting a clear image with higher brightness settings. The clearest visuals I managed to get result in a darker image. I've adjusted both focus and screen knobs on the flyback, and have messed around with the controller board for a while, but I'm struggling to find a good balance.

 

[Crunch]

Lots of resources available for calibration

Thread 'How to calibrate a Nanao MS9'

Nov 15, 2018

Hello,

Curious if anyone had a good documented resource around on calibrating a Nanao MS9. Ie, where the controls are on the chassis and order of operation/what I should be looking for. I'm familiar with the remote, but it's somewhat limited and I'd like to adjust the gamma a bit.

Thank you!
-K

• Kagaden
• Replies: 13
• Forum: Monitor Help

https://mikejmoffitt.com/pages/ms9-hax/index.html#calibration

 

[nem]

I think your tube is shot. You could try rejuvenating it, but I would be surprised if you got a lasting result out of it.

 

[kazuma]

Lots of resources available for calibration

Thread 'How to calibrate a Nanao MS9'

Nov 15, 2018

Hello,

Curious if anyone had a good documented resource around on calibrating a Nanao MS9. Ie, where the controls are on the chassis and order of operation/what I should be looking for. I'm familiar with the remote, but it's somewhat limited and I'd like to adjust the gamma a bit.

Thank you!
-K

• Kagaden
• Replies: 13
• Forum: Monitor Help

https://mikejmoffitt.com/pages/ms9-hax/index.html#calibration

Will try re-calibrating from scratch the next time I'm able to get it out of the cab. I have not adjusted the pots on the chassis yet, so I'm hoping this might make a major difference.

I think your tube is shot. You could try rejuvenating it, but I would be surprised if you got a lasting result out of it.

This is pretty demoralizing to hear, what makes you say that? The person I bought it from insisted that the tube itself was fine, but if this does turn out to be the case, I might just have to call it quits because there's absolutely no chance of me finding a replacement where I live; sincerely doubt I'd ever be able to source a replacement within a reasonable distance.

 

[nem]

I seem to be having difficulty getting a clear image with higher brightness settings. The clearest visuals I managed to get result in a darker image.

The above is usually a mark of a worn tube.

 

[Asure]

Your pincushion is also way off. Adjust (SPC15) on the main chassis will correct that. Then calibrate.

 

[kazuma]

The above is usually a mark of a worn tube.

Yeah.. starting to come to terms with this conclusion after spending hours trying to tweak this thing. Re-calibrated multiple times from scratch and the end result with balanced settings always looks like an unfocused mess. While I was testing different settings/boards, I noticed that if max out the contrast, the screen will slowly focus a little bit and then I'm able to get additional clarity in signal by turning the contrast back down. Over time, however, it slowly goes back out of focus anyways. Here's a video showing that:

Worth noting is that it's not super bright when I do this - it looks better on video but in person it's quite dim, even with the lights off.

Your pincushion is also way off. Adjust (SPC15) on the main chassis will correct that. Then calibrate.

At the very least, I was finally able to adjust this despite not getting anything else to look right, lol. Also got around to manually degaussing the tube with an external wand.

Regarding my options going forward, am I limited exclusively to finding another Toshiba A68KJU96X tube to swap with? I'm aware that replacing the tube is difficult since the replacement needs to have the same curvature for the cab but I don't really know what other specs that entails. Should I consider CRT rejuvenation or anything like that?

 

[Asure]

Well, if you have access to a CRT reju/tester rig, you can at least read the values for the current tube.

If you keep the screen dim, are you able to get it sharp? I guess it's a tube problem if the video w/ another tube shows a sharp, clear, bright image.

 

[kazuma]

Well, if you have access to a CRT reju/tester rig, you can at least read the values for the current tube.

If you keep the screen dim, are you able to get it sharp? I guess it's a tube problem if the video w/ another tube shows a sharp, clear, bright image.

Even with the screen dim, I've never manaed to get the image sharpened to any meaningful degree. Turning up the Screen pot makes it super bloomy, and turning the Focus pot doesn't really seem to do much either.

 

[trashedcabs]

I have swapped MS9 tubes with certain Samsung and Matsushita tubes with success. The bezel is not exact but the gap can be filled with foam tape and it looks fine. As with any swap where the tube and yoke aren't made for each other, you can expect potential hours of setup needed to get something decent, and a chance of never getting there.

If the focus pot doesn't make it sharp then you definitely need to look at the tube health. Ask around your local arcade groups and you should be able to find someone with a rejuvenator--doubtful the case but if by chance you're in WA or OR I'm happy to do it.

 

[Samurai_j]

Tube definitely looks shot. Here are my successful tube swaps with the ms9 that fits Astro bezel curvature if you can’t source another arcade monitor. Suggest checking FB marketplace and Craigslist. Cross reference the tube # at CRT database to find which tv has that tube.

Toshiba 27A32- LG Philips A68AJB82X10

Hitachi/ Panasonic - Matsushita M68LGL061X​

Kortek kt2914f - Samsung A68QBT892X - PITA to get dial in but is an actual arcade tube so colors are super bright and closer to ms9 than the first two.

 

[kazuma]

I have swapped MS9 tubes with certain Samsung and Matsushita tubes with success. The bezel is not exact but the gap can be filled with foam tape and it looks fine. As with any swap where the tube and yoke aren't made for each other, you can expect potential hours of setup needed to get something decent, and a chance of never getting there.

If the focus pot doesn't make it sharp then you definitely need to look at the tube health. Ask around your local arcade groups and you should be able to find someone with a rejuvenator--doubtful the case but if by chance you're in WA or OR I'm happy to do it.

I'm mainly worried about going through the effort to get a different compatible tube, only to find that it prevents me from closing the cabinet or that it doesn't fit into the original tube's frame. Regarding rejuvenating -- I appreciate the offer but I live all the way on the east coast, unfortunately. Though, if anybody on this board lives in or around NJ and has a tube rejuvenator, feel free to hit me up and I'd be willing to meet.

Tube definitely looks shot. Here are my successful tube swaps with the ms9 that fits Astro bezel curvature if you can’t source another arcade monitor. Suggest checking FB marketplace and Craigslist. Cross reference the tube # at CRT database to find which tv has that tube.

Toshiba 27A32- LG Philips A68AJB82X10

Hitachi/ Panasonic - Matsushita M68LGL061X​

Kortek kt2914f - Samsung A68QBT892X - PITA to get dial in but is an actual arcade tube so colors are super bright and closer to ms9 than the first two.

For the tubes you mentioned, did they also fit with the MS9 neckboard? Also, I'd be taking the original yoke and convergence rings from the stock Toshiba tube and transferring them to one of these, correct? Have looked into this a little bit of course, but I just wanna make sure I have the right idea since every step of this has been a learning process.

 

[trashedcabs]

I'm mainly worried about going through the effort to get a different compatible tube, only to find that it prevents me from closing the cabinet or that it doesn't fit into the original tube's frame. Regarding rejuvenating -- I appreciate the offer but I live all the way on the east coast, unfortunately. Though, if anybody on this board lives in or around NJ and has a tube rejuvenator, feel free to hit me up and I'd be willing to meet.


For the tubes you mentioned, did they also fit with the MS9 neckboard? Also, I'd be taking the original yoke and convergence rings from the stock Toshiba tube and transferring them to one of these, correct? Have looked into this a little bit of course, but I just wanna make sure I have the right idea since every step of this has been a learning process.

You can always back mount it if the tube ears are in the wrong spot. This will push the tube back and let you close it. They should all fit in the frame since they're all 68cm (hence the A68 in the tube number). Also, all the tubes mentioned will electrically work with the MS9 chassis, yes.

Personally I would not do a tube swap unless you are very familiar with how monitors operate and have a lot of time to spend tuning it. I would first try asking on KLOV or on a local facebook arcade collectors group--more than likely one of the old timers in your area will have a rejuvenator you can borrow.

 

[Samurai_j]

I'm mainly worried about going through the effort to get a different compatible tube, only to find that it prevents me from closing the cabinet or that it doesn't fit into the original tube's frame. Regarding rejuvenating -- I appreciate the offer but I live all the way on the east coast, unfortunately. Though, if anybody on this board lives in or around NJ and has a tube rejuvenator, feel free to hit me up and I'd be willing to meet.


For the tubes you mentioned, did they also fit with the MS9 neckboard? Also, I'd be taking the original yoke and convergence rings from the stock Toshiba tube and transferring them to one of these, correct? Have looked into this a little bit of course, but I just wanna make sure I have the right idea since every step of this has been a learning process.

If you can find a rejuvenator in your area, go for it! But as you know the tube is on borrowed time, no telling how long it will last after. It’s up to you, nothing will look exactly as good as a Toshiba ms9 properly calibrated unfortunately. So be sure that’s the route you want to take before messing with the rings and yoke.

As for getting a donor crt, find one anyway. Your tube is on borrowed time as stated above. How good it looks depends on how much time you put into dialing it in. Transport your yoke and rings over to the new tube and see what results you get. Do you care about exact accuracy? Convergence? Color warmth? Than prepare to spend some time missing with yoke rings and strips.

Consumer crt set typically are larger on the back side, therefore the yoke and neckboard sets farther back. You will have to adjust your chassis fly back and parameters accordingly, add a magnet or two for any color purity you might have on corners. Sounds daunting, but seriously don’t over think it, just make sure you follow basic guidelines of not touching the anode and discharging your tubes. 95% chance you won’t even care it’s not the OG Toshiba tube once it’s up and running. Best of luck to you.

 

[kazuma]

Might as well just ask here instead of making a new thread; sorry if this is a basic question, but how does one back mount a monitor, and what does this process entail? Would also appreciate if someone could post some pics of an example.

 

[Samurai_j]

Might as well just ask here instead of making a new thread; sorry if this is a basic question, but how does one back mount a monitor, and what does this process entail? Would also appreciate if someone could post some pics of an example.

Back mounting is placing dog ears ( hole mounts on monitor) behind monitor frame and tightening down, instead of in front. Simple as that.

This is to provide clearance for monitor Bezel. In most cases only needed if replacing MS9 monitor with consumer crt, due to slight curvature difference. Benefits include adding washers to set monitor depth, useful to close bezel gaps or to close shell front cover. Be mindful consumer crt necks sits further back, so be careful not to knock neck board on back of the inside of the cab.