What's new
By:
Filters

Sega Blast City PSU Capkit and fan mod

Catzoo

Catzoo

Student
Joined
Oct 1, 2018
Messages
68
Reaction score
52
Location
France
Hi !

I just finished my Sega Blast City PSU refurb, with a capkit and a fan replacement.

My videos are in french as usual, but i always do english subtitles.

Hope you'll enjoy !

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8h-zzTIx8k


IMG-20210212-122201.jpg
IMG-20210212-122735.jpg
IMG-20210212-122739.jpg
IMG-20210212-122744.jpg
IMG-20210212-123640.jpg
IMG-20210213-130456.jpg
IMG-20210213-145231.jpg
IMG-20210213-160817.jpg
https://ibb.co/Mpp40vm
 
That PSU must be pounds lighter with all that grime gone. Great job!
 
Nice job!

My PSU is due a recap, but what will resolve the issue of not being able to raise the voltage even higher?
I have a couple of boards that need a high voltage bump to run stably so I can't play them.
 
Ringo said:
My PSU is due a recap, but what will resolve the issue of not being able to raise the voltage even higher?
Click to expand...

The Blast outputs 12A for +5V. IMO that's plenty enough for everything. What boards are you having issues with?

PS. you should do that recap.
 
Most of my boards are originals, but I do have a couple of bootlegs that need 5.5v to run, SFII CE being one of them which my friend gave me so we can play it on the cab, it's his favourite SF game. Off the top of my head Legend Of Hero Tonma is another game that requires a bit over 5v but I can't get anywhere near those voltages on these bootlegs currently.

Model 3 is also unstable on this PSU now which is the reason I figured that need to recap the PSU, I've raised it up to 5.2v and it still crashes. In the mean time I'm using a Lindy PSU @ 5v with a modified loom that's powered by CN13 on the Blast I/O. SpikeOut, it's never crashed or froze using the Lindy PSU at 5v.
 
Model 3 will likely be more picky about +3.3V than +5V.
 
Max I could get on the Blast PSU 3.3v rail was 2.9v. When it warmed up it was a bit higher but was still prone to crashing.
This is how I'm running it at the moment but would prefer getting it back on the original PSU if possible.

Do you think the cap kit will raise the 3.3v or would I need to start replacing other components too?

Sorry to the OP for going a bit OT. ^^
 

Attachments

  • SPK_Blast.jpg
    SPK_Blast.jpg
    182.5 KB · Views: 185
I realise i've never published any update regarding this project, and the fact that after a full recap, i got more power but still lower than expected.
Turns out i found out months after the video was shot that the voltage was all around the place when i moved the jamma edge (thanks to the little voltmeter i've added on the edge).

This allows me to trace back to the root of my issue : the sub-board on the right of the cabinet get the power before the jamma harness, and nearly ALL of the power connect solder joint were cracked ...

I guess this might be useful to anyone, because i hadn't thought about this, and this was most likely my issue than dying cap. At least the PSU is more future proof now !
 
I recapped my PSU and checked that it did work after the recap. I replaced the fan and now I don’t get any power. I did take the PSU out of the cabinet as well because I am doing a restore. My question is, does the PSU need to be wired to the cabinet to turn on? Like a typical computer power supply needing a switch on the PC to be turned on to power up.
 
Correct, you can't turn on the PSU unless you bridge some pins on the connector. Put it back in the cab to test.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top