So you are powering the board separately, and I assume this is a JAMMA cab not going to a supergun so that has its own power but it’s just not wired to the fingerboard? Maybe I will get/build a JAMMA cabinet since sticking all this in my multicade is probably not going to fly and it might be nice to be able to hook up other things more easily. (Like if I ever found a VF2 stack and jammafy that)I did the RGBS and controls through the JAMMA board. I made a stereo harness to go from the filter board to the Sega AMP. I power the game board with a HAPP PSU. It’s a mess but it works.
nice work! i'm into the same project! parts from a few places and a virtua racing soundboard( will have to replaces de roms)
got all the parts but not the main wiring harness. Anyone with a spare one ?
Holy hell is that awesome.
Here's mine inside a Mini Cute with the Nanao monitor that can handle medium resolution - we also added a 4PDT switch on the frame to select between 15 and 24khz - I believe it's not safe to switch whilst it's powered on - so beware if you try the same mod.
We still need to tidy up some of the wiring and move the power off the JAMMA edge onto a separate connector - when @Arcade game & I built this we didn't know it was too much juice for the JAMMA edge. I've not run this machine for very long but we'll make that change soon.
We pulled 5v off one of the chips for the voltmeter shown - the amplifier is a bog standard Amazon cheap thing - I think we combined the SFX and music using some resistors - I'm considering swapping for something else but it sounds fine.
Power supply is not original - it's a Mean Well model
Thanks, yeah it sounds like what I tried (small 12v powered amp to boost before feeding to the jamma edge / supergun). Maybe the cheap Amazon amp just isn’t up to the task, I’ll return that and try a beefier one. It’s says up to 18W but it’s pretty light/cheap/flimsy compared to any other amp I’ve seen so might be false specs. Thanks!jamma games should have onboard amps outputting between 2w and 10w.
the sega model-x stuff and newer is line-level.
you can use a cheap booster amp intended for a car and drive it from 12v
Ok you think model 2 and 3 is complicated? I've been (successfully) playing with System 1 (Virtua Racing and Virtua Fighters) and boy... that is a LOT of wires. and I haven't even touched the Force Feedback yet. Starting to understand why apocalypse doesn't need any !
... oh during my debugging sessions, I figured out that the communication board was making the board freeze the second graphics were displayed on screen; Removing that board brings the system working. I'll test/change the Z80 on it and see if that helps.
also looking for the IO board dipswitch settings: the default is japanese everytime I boot? anyone
Where did you get that Model1 filter board printout? I'm currently trying to find one but am having no luck with google.check it out, I took your advice and am building my own:
I would be very careful using the RetroElectronik supergun. There have been horror stories on this board using it. I have one because I it was the cheapest supergun that was readily available at the time, but I use it very sparingly.sorry I have nothing on the little dip switches. That’s great you have a 24khz tube though, I went the jamma to supergun route since the only thing I have that I can convert the signal to CRT-wise is a VGA monitor. (Keeping an eye out for medium res monitors). The good news about the jamma to supergun route is the cabling is less rats nesty
Oh it’s just something I threw together in excel based on those filter board pics pasted here for mapping those pins to jamma.Where did you get that Model1 filter board printout? I'm currently trying to find one but am having no luck with google.
I would be very careful using the RetroElectronik supergun. There have been horror stories on this board using it. I have one because I it was the cheapest supergun that was readily available at the time, but I use it very sparingly.