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Barth0lin0

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nice work! i'm into the same project! parts from a few places and a virtua racing soundboard( will have to replaces de roms)

got all the parts but not the main wiring harness. Anyone with a spare one ?
 

GamingDoyle

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I did the RGBS and controls through the JAMMA board. I made a stereo harness to go from the filter board to the Sega AMP. I power the game board with a HAPP PSU. It’s a mess but it works.
So you are powering the board separately, and I assume this is a JAMMA cab not going to a supergun so that has its own power but it’s just not wired to the fingerboard? Maybe I will get/build a JAMMA cabinet since sticking all this in my multicade is probably not going to fly and it might be nice to be able to hook up other things more easily. (Like if I ever found a VF2 stack and jammafy that)
nice work! i'm into the same project! parts from a few places and a virtua racing soundboard( will have to replaces de roms)

got all the parts but not the main wiring harness. Anyone with a spare one ?

Sega model 1 club! Nope just the one for me. Enjoy that incredible rats nest of wires!
 

stj

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a jamma edge-connector / fingerboard is fine for video and controls, but it cant handle the current of a model1/2/3 system - you will burn the contacts.
 

ItsBobDudes

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Yes I have a (Sega New Astro City) cabinet power supply running the jamma edge power to the IO board only. And a second (HAPP) PSU to the board stack.
If I were using a super gun I could cut it down to one PSU but I would still power the board directly and not through the jamma edge.
 
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speedswan

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VF1MiniCute.jpg

Here's mine inside a Mini Cute with the Nanao monitor that can handle medium resolution - we also added a 4PDT switch on the frame to select between 15 and 24khz - I believe it's not safe to switch whilst it's powered on - so beware if you try the same mod.

We still need to tidy up some of the wiring and move the power off the JAMMA edge onto a separate connector - when @Arcade game & I built this we didn't know it was too much juice for the JAMMA edge. I've not run this machine for very long but we'll make that change soon.

We pulled 5v off one of the chips for the voltmeter shown - the amplifier is a bog standard Amazon cheap thing - I think we combined the SFX and music using some resistors - I'm considering swapping for something else but it sounds fine.

Power supply is not original - it's a Mean Well model
 

GamingDoyle

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VF1MiniCute.jpg

Here's mine inside a Mini Cute with the Nanao monitor that can handle medium resolution - we also added a 4PDT switch on the frame to select between 15 and 24khz - I believe it's not safe to switch whilst it's powered on - so beware if you try the same mod.

We still need to tidy up some of the wiring and move the power off the JAMMA edge onto a separate connector - when @Arcade game & I built this we didn't know it was too much juice for the JAMMA edge. I've not run this machine for very long but we'll make that change soon.

We pulled 5v off one of the chips for the voltmeter shown - the amplifier is a bog standard Amazon cheap thing - I think we combined the SFX and music using some resistors - I'm considering swapping for something else but it sounds fine.

Power supply is not original - it's a Mean Well model
Holy hell is that awesome.
 

GamingDoyle

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@ItsBobDudes check it out, I took your advice and am building my own:

1ED9134D-7E44-4721-B194-23B851E402F9.jpeg


It works with my supergun for video & controls! Next up will be audio. I’ll probably just go for it, but it looks like for stereo post mixing off the audio board I can use jamma L/10 & M/11 even though original is jamma standard is mono so will have to see if it flies.
After I get audio going I’m going to make new power cabling so I am not dependent on the original harness and can put that spaghetti in storage
 

GamingDoyle

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Hmm so audio works, kind of. At first I did just line level out of the mixer thinking the tv speakers could amplify it but it was super quiet. So then I tried lining a tiny amp in and it was at least more audible but still kind of quiet and the quality sucked compared with putting the post mixing RCA jacks directly into some amplified bookshelf speakers. The amp was a super cheap one off Amazon so quality of sound issues aren’t surprising but the fact I still needed to have the tv volume fairly high is concerning. What kind of amplified output do people typically put over the jamma edge? Or is it usually line level and jamma cabs do all the amplification? I can run a separate audio cable directly to the tv sound I just thought it would be nice to have it mixed in with the hdmi output from the supergun. Anyway if anyone has any thoughts let me know. It’s my first jamma adapter so I’m not sure what’s possible or makes sense when adapting audio. Thanks!
 

stj

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jamma games should have onboard amps outputting between 2w and 10w.
the sega model-x stuff and newer is line-level.
you can use a cheap booster amp intended for a car and drive it from 12v
 

GamingDoyle

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jamma games should have onboard amps outputting between 2w and 10w.
the sega model-x stuff and newer is line-level.
you can use a cheap booster amp intended for a car and drive it from 12v
Thanks, yeah it sounds like what I tried (small 12v powered amp to boost before feeding to the jamma edge / supergun). Maybe the cheap Amazon amp just isn’t up to the task, I’ll return that and try a beefier one. It’s says up to 18W but it’s pretty light/cheap/flimsy compared to any other amp I’ve seen so might be false specs. Thanks!
 

stj

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i'm not a fan of amazon,
i wont help fund jef bezo's giant dildo / fake rocket scam.

i get all my stuff from ali-express or ebay, in that order.
 

GamingDoyle

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All right, alternative amp worked! Its interesting though, not sure if its my soundbar or the hdmi arc or the supergun, but something introduces audio latency when going over the jamma edge. Its not a ton but I notice it versus hooking the rca jacks from the mixed output directly to some powered speakers. A new mystery, but for now I'm pretty happy. I made the IO board powered off the jamma edge and a new power cable that powers the fat stack that comes off the power supply directly. Just need to make a cable to power the audio board and I'm free of the original harness
 

Mrhide

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Ok you think model 2 and 3 is complicated? I've been (successfully) playing with System 1 (Virtua Racing and Virtua Fighters) and boy... that is a LOT of wires. and I haven't even touched the Force Feedback yet. Starting to understand why apocalypse doesn't need any !
IMG_8375.jpg



... oh during my debugging sessions, I figured out that the communication board was making the board freeze the second graphics were displayed on screen; Removing that board brings the system working. I'll test/change the Z80 on it and see if that helps.

also looking for the IO board dipswitch settings: the default is japanese everytime I boot? anyone?
 

GamingDoyle

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Ok you think model 2 and 3 is complicated? I've been (successfully) playing with System 1 (Virtua Racing and Virtua Fighters) and boy... that is a LOT of wires. and I haven't even touched the Force Feedback yet. Starting to understand why apocalypse doesn't need any !
IMG_8375.jpg



... oh during my debugging sessions, I figured out that the communication board was making the board freeze the second graphics were displayed on screen; Removing that board brings the system working. I'll test/change the Z80 on it and see if that helps.

also looking for the IO board dipswitch settings: the default is japanese everytime I boot? anyone

sorry I have nothing on the little dip switches. That’s great you have a 24khz tube though, I went the jamma to supergun route since the only thing I have that I can convert the signal to CRT-wise is a VGA monitor. (Keeping an eye out for medium res monitors). The good news about the jamma to supergun route is the cabling is less rats nesty

C585F945-7C72-4810-A12C-3AA44CB938B3.jpeg
 

biggestsonicfan

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check it out, I took your advice and am building my own:
Where did you get that Model1 filter board printout? I'm currently trying to find one but am having no luck with google.

sorry I have nothing on the little dip switches. That’s great you have a 24khz tube though, I went the jamma to supergun route since the only thing I have that I can convert the signal to CRT-wise is a VGA monitor. (Keeping an eye out for medium res monitors). The good news about the jamma to supergun route is the cabling is less rats nesty
I would be very careful using the RetroElectronik supergun. There have been horror stories on this board using it. I have one because I it was the cheapest supergun that was readily available at the time, but I use it very sparingly.
 

biggestsonicfan

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is this helpfull?
Sadly not. That's the same source I've been using, and it's a 1:1 of the VF manual. I have to assume Pin 12 and Pin 22 are unused "button 4"s, but I'd like more info on pins 13 and 23. I am assuming 25, just like Model2, is actually unused.
 

ItsBobDudes

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The printout in GamingDoyle's pic looks like a JAMMA edge printout. I used the same image MrHide linked to make my VF1 harness.

What game are you trying to run?
 

GamingDoyle

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Where did you get that Model1 filter board printout? I'm currently trying to find one but am having no luck with google.


I would be very careful using the RetroElectronik supergun. There have been horror stories on this board using it. I have one because I it was the cheapest supergun that was readily available at the time, but I use it very sparingly.
Oh it’s just something I threw together in excel based on those filter board pics pasted here for mapping those pins to jamma.
 
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