Sega Naomi Universal Stand Up/Sit Down Reclamation Thread

[mR_CaESaR]

They're definitely interchangable.

Here's a post with the pics

https://forum.arcadeotaku.com/viewtopic.php?p=505514&sid=b60f684d814afc677787a3b18ab6e19e#p505514

NOA-1502-01 is for MS-2932 (MS8-29 / MS9 fits too)
NOA-1502-02 is for MS-2930 / 31 / 33 / 34 and Sanwa 29E31S
NOA-1502-03 is for Toshiba PF D29C051 and Sanwa 29PFX

If you have a look at the back of your one, it'll most likely be NOA-1502-01

 

[SCUltra]

Below is the monitor shroud damage where someone just Hulked off half off to get to the monitor. The entire side was like this. Imagine being so lazy to undo one side just to be able to rip off the other one. All for three screws... gd man.

After inserting the three washers as deep/flush as possible, pilled on the JB weld. When dry, used bondo to fill/reinforce then more glue. Thanks Pacific Vending...

Enamel Primer\Flat Black with rattle cans. I don't have any regrets about painting this I just should have waited until the very end to do so. It should have been the very last thing I did. Taking it off, laying it down, etc makes tiny scratches. Would have been better to wait until finished with everything else.

 

[SCUltra]

Cut the original molex and made a power cable end/adapter for the monitor. Didn't research what this connector should be as I had a few leftover ATX psu/gpu cables laying around that seem to be the same pin size and were pretty beefy/well built so I just used those to get it going. Soldered, wrapped, heat shrink, hot glue to fill in the gaps/insulate and wrapped outside with electrical tape. Eventually I will make a small label just in case but it works for now.

 

[benime]

Cut the original molex and made a power cable end/adapter for the monitor. Didn't research what this connector should be as I had a few leftover ATX psu/gpu cables laying around that seem to be the same pin size and were pretty beefy/well built so I just used those to get it going. Soldered, wrapped, heat shrink, hot glue to fill in the gaps/insulate and wrapped outside with electrical tape. Eventually I will make a small label just in case but it works for now.

Cabinet side is definitely Molex, monitor side should be JST VH if you want to re-pin it proper.

 

[SCUltra]

Cabinet side is definitely Molex, monitor side should be JST VH if you want to re-pin it proper.

Thanks. I think I will eventually.

 

[stj]

the burned part on the i/o is a ceramic filter, just remove it and bridge the 2 ends with a jumper.
the reason the "brass" got hot when you drilled it is because it's GALVANISED STEEL!!!

 

[SCUltra]

the burned part on the i/o is a ceramic filter, just remove it and bridge the 2 ends with a jumper.
the reason the "brass" got hot when you drilled it is because it's GALVANISED STEEL!!!

Thanks for the tip. Looking a bit closer you are correct its definitely not brass. updated! LOL

 

[Hackcell]

great post!

 

[snake_eyes_ex]

This cab is looking great.

 

[Rix]

Is it possible to find the front bezels for these things? Or is repair as you've done the only option?

 

[SCUltra]

Is it possible to find the front bezels for these things? Or is repair as you've done the only option?

With enough time and luck I bet you can find a whole front bezel somewhere. but I think I'm happy with the fix to the corner (once its painted). I think the only issue might be shipping cost/options for the size of the front bezel. I didn't have a Marquee, but found one in great shape from a shop in Japan. Shipping to US was about the same as the item and the only option.. I'm enjoying the hunt though. I'll be attempting to locate a NOA-1502-03 as mR_CaESaR pointed out. I'm guessing that will take a few months at least.

 

[Adrick]

Hi I see you repaired the pins where the crt cover screws go, how did you do it,Ah ok, I just saw, the bondo and JB where to buy it. ?

 

[SC-Ultra]

Hi I see you repaired the pins where the crt cover screws go, how did you do it,Ah ok, I just saw, the bondo and JB where to buy it. ?

The way they were ripped off there was still enough plastic "meat" to drop some washers in and build up the strength with the jb weld and bondo just to build it up. Not sure about Spain but here in the us you can find a strong two part epoxy and car filler at pretty much any hardware store. Thanks man you made my day, had no idea anyone was still looking at this. I have a lot to add. I will resurrect this very soon.

 

[Adrick]

The way they were ripped off there was still enough plastic "meat" to drop some washers in and build up the strength with the jb weld and bondo just to build it up. Not sure about Spain but here in the us you can find a strong two part epoxy and car filler at pretty much any hardware store. Thanks man you made my day, had no idea anyone was still looking at this. I have a lot to add. I will resurrect this very soon.

I thought it was a very good restoration because I saw it very complicated, here in my city there is not much supply of materials so I always have to look for parts in the best possible condition outside my country, and also buy repair material, what brand of bondo did you use. I have two crt caps one in particular a pin somewhat cracked around the edges the rounded area do you think it is possible to repair it.

I'm glad, looking forward to seeing more of your projects. Here's a follower.

 

[SC-Ultra]

The next thing I did was visit Hoagtech again to see some project cabs he had offered me and he agreed to sell me a project NNC and helped me get it home. He told me the chassis was non working/had issues, I tried anyway and got a big puff of magic smoke so for now I decided to use this cab to borrow the few pieces I needed to finish the Naomi. Starting with the flat bezel which had prove difficult to source.

Reclaiming the delicious tar juice

I also finally scored a marquee from Japan. One more thing to check off the list.

Since the chassis needed work I disconnected it and have tucked the tube away in case it proves to be salvageable. I was never happy with the way I had to mount the weiya/makvision tri sync (making new mount holes into the bottom original monitor frame) so I decided to borrow the bottom half from the NNC frame for now.

I still have the rest of the chassis frame in case I need to do this for another. even though I will redirect/remove the remote board I did not see a reason to change the whole frame since the rest of it was fine and only the bottom half was an issue

Starting to get somewhere.

 

[SC-Ultra]

With the NNC as a reference, I became instantly confident in switching all the wiring to Sega/Japanese standard. for ease of use swapping panels, etc. It also really annoyed the hell out of me that SOA didnt utilize the tray at all for the panel connections.

I removed the entire loom and fed it into a sandwich bag because I still needed the amp for volume. This way I could at least play around using the monitor with a fightstick until finding everything else I needed. One step forward, one step back.

I found one piece of the i/o from arcade art shop, SEGA NOS. The other lemonyvengeance was kind enough to make for me.

(There were a few other pieces I discovered I would need to borrow from the NNC that I ended up just having to find a complete harness for. Mainly the extensions and power connections necessary to get to the sun psu and feed the JVS I/O.)

The "new" complete Naomi harness arrived from Slovenia, along with Diet Go Go. It works. Amazing.

The next thing I did was replace the one bad component on the JVS I/O that tested bad. I had found a whole new unit from china but on close inspection it was missing a capacitor (C16) As I didnt have it on hand I just swapped the bad filter on to the original board that came with the naomi. (EM7) I was also told you can just bridge this but I wanted to replace it if possible.

 

[SC-Ultra]

Changing the monitor to TATE orientation I noticed interference from the unshielded speakers I used. Many have said using unshielded is fine but I did not find this to be the case.

Here I am rocking the monitor shroud/cover that contains the speakers and observing the geometry change. I tried the same thing in horizontal/yoko and could see a change there also.

I found some Infinity Interlude 4" woofers on ebay and decided to give them a shot. Sounded great and completely solved the issue. One thing about using these is I can seem to hear all the detail at a lower volume now.


Comparison to the stock speaker

Had to make a few mount holes but was happy the amp could drive them well.

While waiting for more parts tested out Ikari 3 core for Mister FPGA

 

[SC-Ultra]

One day out of nowhere a New Net City appeared on my local Craigslist. I went and checked it out and just couldn't not get it. original Toshiba/Nanao, bright, locks, and clean. The owners were translators going back to Japan when things began to open up again and trying to lighten their load. Had a river service JAMMA loom already installed.

So with the one NNC in need of a monitor or at least a Chassis, and this one fully functional NNC, I started working on trying to repair the badly damaged coin door that at some point was pryed open. Somewhere between trying to reshape it with a soft mallet and sanding all the chipped paint off I just decided to chop it.

breaking it down. (There will be screws)

Since the other NNC was full of tar and needed to be heavily cleaned anyway I thought it would be a foolish mistake not to use it as a template. I have seen several threads on chopping. Some providing measurements but you still have to drill the holes the cab stand will mate to out of thin air so I prefer a visual guide. it doesnt get any better than this.

A bit shorter I would say.

Looking back it would have been better to mark this with masking tape, it did the job though.

A few passes of paint so we can see where we are going. (hit with goof off after to remove)

 

[astro_zombie138]

You sir are a madman, I love it!

 

[SC-Ultra]

chop chop

It "mostly" stands on its own. Of course the factory cuts are cleaner.

This is where I appreciate having the real thing. These are two arms mated together (held with screws) to drill the perfect hole. below is the other side

You can see sega had some play for these two, but we just need the hole right in the center of where the factory screw was attached and we will be fine.

taping off the cable feeds for the bottom of the cabinet. I dont have a picture of the raw cuts but it looks about how you think it would cutting a square. The dremel was fine for this.

Skipping just a bit ahead to show how the feeds came out as well as the screw mating for the two we drilled.