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How much overspray is there inside the cab is a better question.
 
JCL does decent paint jobs from what I have seen. It’s not rattle canned with over spraying
 
Attaching some internal pics of my NAC and U4 painted by JCL. The paint job is quality, considering the price point.
 

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The lighting in my office isn’t great for showing the texture/quality of the paint, but here’s some fresh out of the crate and surface dusted pics of my U4 in my kitchen. Hopefully they can provide a reference point.

EDIT/NOTE: I provided and applied all the decals on the front/back (including that horribly measured memory card/headphone jack one that has since been replaced 😉)

I’ll post again with NAC pics (10 image limit)
 

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Pics of the NAC:
 

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Looks a little too matte. But could be lighting. Not horrible, not amazing.
 
Did you get the standard paint they offer or pay the extra for “car paint”?
I didn’t get the option for either cab 🤷‍♂️

I think the NAC was before they got their “new” paint and the U4 was already fully painted and just needed to be wired when I purchased. I’m just glad I have a fully working NAC that doesn’t have the notorious/inevitable “yellow ears” 😂
 
Attaching some internal pics of my NAC and U4 painted by JCL. The paint job is quality, considering the price point.

Yeah, there's tons of overspray inside the cab. Obvious from the photos. I've seen these repaints in person before, and they're spotty at best. The paint doesn't adhere super well to the monitor & speaker surround, and there's often paint drops (though I have seen those sanded out from time to time).

I'd personally rather they just did nothing beyond cleaning and maybe reflow/recap and pass on the savings, or offer each service a la carte. But I also wouldn't buy a cab from China, so maybe I'm not the best person to speak on this topic.
 
Yeah, there's tons of overspray inside the cab. Obvious from the photos. I've seen these repaints in person before, and they're spotty at best. The paint doesn't adhere super well to the monitor & speaker surround, and there's often paint drops (though I have seen those sanded out from time to time).

I'd personally rather they just did nothing beyond cleaning and maybe reflow/recap and pass on the savings, or offer each service a la carte. But I also wouldn't buy a cab from China, so maybe I'm not the best person to speak on this topic.
To each their own. I guess it all depends on what an individual is looking for in a cab. My cabs live in a cold/dark room with low lighting so it’s not a huge deal. If you’re looking for a show piece or fully original example, it’s obviously not the route to take.

I was just happy to have working candies in my home, delivered to my garage. If you’re in a “hub” like SoCal/NoCal or near Asia as a whole, you have a lot more options.

Personally, I can deal with overspray and refurbed parts. CRT candy cab’s days are numbered and the supply will eventually dwindle and disappear.
 
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Hi guys, thanks to everyone who replied and I do have an update. I managed to get hold of an Astro City locally, so I was saved from needing to import from China.

The CRT in the machine I received however seemed to be sparking so I've taken it apart. It looks like there's a gap in the anageid where it may have been arcing. I've cleaned out the cap and have some dialectric grease ready to apply. I've noticed that some of the black coating near to the anageid is missing and the glass surface is see-through. Is this a problem?

Also this piece of metal fell out when I removed the anode cap. Is this just to pinch the clips together? Is it needed?
 

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The conductive matte dag coating isn’t supposed to reach the anode, (or yoke). The arcing you see is when the high voltage from the anode reaches the dag either because the rubber cup has a gap or there’s conductive material bridging the dag coating and the anode.
 
The conductive matte dag coating isn’t supposed to reach the anode, (or yoke). The arcing you see is when the high voltage from the anode reaches the dag either because the rubber cup has a gap or there’s conductive material bridging the dag coating and the anode.
Do you think all I need to do is get some silicone grease applied around the anode cap then?
 
I can’t talk to the paint on the glass in that area but that metal piece does help the clip push out once you clip it in so I would just put it back on if you need a picture of it I should be able to scrounge one up later tomorrow
 
Do you think all I need to do is get some silicone grease applied around the anode cap then?
Dielectric grease, yes. Discharge the tube one more time then clean around the anode before applying a thin layer of dielectric grease. Hopefully that’ll be the end of your arcing.

@XtraSmiley is right; keep the metal piece that fell out.
 
I can’t talk to the paint on the glass in that area but that metal piece does help the clip push out once you clip it in so I would just put it back on if you need a picture of it I should be able to scrounge one up later tomorrow
Do you have a picture of which way around it goes back on?
 
How much was the shipping to the US when ordering a cab from JCL Games? What condition are their monitors in and do they have any way to let you find a monitor with lower amounts of burn?
 
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