Sorry for the old quote, but the UD decode uses that method too.Be careful with that code, I wouldn't use it in that form, since it doesn't configure the outputs as open drain, this means that when buttons aren't pressed, it outputs high - you don't want to accidentally touch the GND with those pinsThere's another project here based upon the Atmega328. Not tried it myself but may be worth a look.
Also, this may be just me, but if possible, I prefer to set the microcontroller's outputs all at once, not each time for every output.
This was the seller I bought my cables from. But they don't seem to stock them anymore.
Please consider grabbing a wireless 2.4GHz Retro-Bit controller once they're available. I'd be willing to chip in a little towards getting you one for testing, although I'd wager to guess that the multiplexing logic will be identical between the wired and wireless models.It's the same with my adapters, I wrote my code around the official controllers. I'll grab one of those retrobit controllers when I'm less busy and see what's going on there.
How good are these controllers compared to the real deal?Hello. I just received a 1.6 Saturn to Neo converter. My old school Saturn pads work perfectly, but I picked up a couple of Retro Bit Saturn pads and they don't work properly. Here is a link to the exact pads:
Medium punch seems to be hit rapidly, and coin / start don't seem to work until I hold the actual Start button... it's very odd. Why would these pads not work like the classic controllers? Is it possible to upgrade firmware on these devices? In the meantime, I'll continue to use my classic pads. Thanks for any help.
Hypothesis #1:Medium punch seems to be hit rapidly, and coin / start don't seem to work until I hold the actual Start button... it's very odd. Why would these pads not work like the classic controllers?