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Sharp CZ-600DE CRT Troubleshooting

alamone

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Hi, I imported this monitor from YAJ, it was advertised as working, but it does not work at all when it arrived, might have been damaged in shipping? Only had a bit of bubblewrap around it, no physical damage that I can see, but there was a crack on one of the monitor PCBs, it didn't seem to affect any traces but I did patch one just in case. The power light turns on red, if I hit the power on the remote I hear a tick noise like a relay, and the power light just stays red, but from what I understand it should be turning green correct? Any pointers on how to troubleshoot? Thanks in advance.

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Looks like the pcb cracks on traces. You can try to bring it to PNL inc to take a look at it. Or call John and send him these pictures if they can fix it.
 
Looks like this one is severed as well:

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Considering it's gotten quite a blow, I would check the tube too. If the neck board is heavy there's a good chance the tube is necked. Ideally you would test the tube on a rejuvenator.
 
I took it to Newport TV VCR repair to see if he could fix it. We'll see what he says. Where's PNL inc?
 
BTW, this was shipped via Fedex, but I assume the other carriers aren't that much better...
 
They're in/around Baldwin Park. John's old workspace unfortunately caught fire a year or two back, but I think they're still in business somewhere nearby. I'd call first to confirm the current location:
https://maps.app.goo.gl/FJNXh45GZPVL7qnN8

Failing that, you could also try Andy King, but I suspect he has a wait list a mile long. You may be able to support him via Patreon to jump the line. He's in NorCal/SF.
https://twitter.com/dorksince93/

At the risk of offending or making stupid suggestions, did you buzz out those traces or just eyeball them? It's possible they might not look severed, but the cracks in between the layers may be severe enough that there's actually no continuity from end to end. I'd buzz them all out, scrape the mask and bodge the broken traces, then use epoxy to repair the cracks.

I'd also just look it over under a microscope if possible, might be other stuff going on with cracked/cold joints that got jostled in transit.
 
Yeah I just eyeballed it and patched the obvious one, I didn't really check that thoroughly. After doing that patch and touching up some solder joints it still didn't work so I figured I needed to have a pro look at it. It's currently at the Newport guy's workshop, so I don't have access to it at the moment. I'm hoping it's something simple. I don't think the neck was damaged, but I didn't look that closely at the neck.
 
So, I got it to display 15KHz from my HAS using a XSYNC-1 to separate the CSYNC to separate sync, but I'm having an issue(?) where if there's a lot of white on screen, the rest of the screen kind of dims, kind of like a dynamic contrast or something? I adjusted one of the pots labelled "Computer Image Correction" all the way to the left and it helped, but it's still happening. I'm not familiar with this monitor so maybe that's just how it functions.

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Probably try adjusting pots or knobs I underlined red on pictures (I used Google Translate to translate). The image correction you adjusted is for computer (when you connected to Sharp x68000 computer or other computers). The image correction I underlined on picture is for tv.

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色の濃さ : color intensity
映像補正: video correction

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黒レベル補正: black level correction
黒レベル: black level
 
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The knobs for TV don't seem to do anything. I think those are for input using the antenna inputs.

I'm using HD-DB15 output from HAS to JP21 of XSYNC-1 (custom cable), which splits the CSYNC, and then goes out HD-DB15 into the DSUB-15 input of the monitor.
 
Oh ok. HAS video output goes to Analog RGB port. X68k computer video goes to the same port. I remembered I had to toggle between digital and analog between computer (digital) and game console (analog). But game console I connected to composite video audio inputs on the monitor.
 
I thought that the analog/digital switch was for selecting analog/digital RGB. Digital RGB being like, 8 color displays for very old PCs.
 
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