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(Solved) help with a Namco System 256 PCB replacement

Boom we have life.
 

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Except I dropped one of the caps and can’t find it or I would have recapped the second board I got from Yaton with the same issue.
 
Here's the picture anyone knows a repmacement reference ? Mine is broken
20251202_231350.jpg
 
is that component marked "63" the piece you think is bad? According to the original posted, he got a 2 amp fuse and dropped that in on his board, but I have a feeling this 63 is something different?
 
It's one of the parts that I have found broken. There's no continuity in that one. Other identical 63 marked parts seem to be in continuity. Looks like a fuse to me but not sure and I don't want to break something. 63 for 6.3a ?
 
mathewbeall said:
These are the values - you just have to get the right footprint:

C135 is marked with "C106" so 10 uF, 16v.
L1 is marked with "470" so 47 uH
Click to expand...
Could these cause jailbars in the video signal to show up in a Super 256 if their faulty? I seem to have them in my replacement Super board, they become way more apparent when I use Line4x on my OSSC, I'm gonna be dissasembling the system again and I'm gonna give the board a good look over as it's definately a cap problem somewhere.

EDIT: Also, when just the Right audio channel is connected, nothing comes out of it until BOTH the Left and right channel are plugged in which I've never had with any system before which also makes me think theres a grounding issue somewhere. I plugged a direct line into just the R channel and could faintly hear it coming through. Very odd.

EDIT 2: So, I found the culprits, L1 has been bridged by someone and C135 is just gone. fml. I'm never ordering from a chinese eBay seller again. I've ordered some inductors and capacitors with these ratings from Amazon.

EDIT 3: The Right audio channel was not a fault of the Super, seems the AV3 IN for the audio on my OSSC isnt outputting the right audio channel anymore for some reason.
 
Last edited:
Update on my Super 256. I successfully removed the L1 bridge and replaced it with a proper 47uH inductor, except I used a through-hole inductor as I'm not too good at micro soldering in tight spots. Added in the 10uF, 16v Capacitor and voila. No more jailbars, a clean video signal. I advise anyone who hasn't checked their boards to make sure you don't have the bodge job like someone did to my board, presumably the chinese eBay seller I bought the system from did, then gave me this bodged board when the first it orignally came with died.

Not my best soldering but it does the job.

The only reason I took a chance with buying a Super from china was because I could not find a single working Super anywhere in the UK. Safe to say I'm not buying from China on eBay ever again.

PXL_20260403_122927433.MP copy.jpgPXL_20260403_124707141.MP copy.jpg
 
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