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Just a quick video I made today while removing the plastic tabs and pins to make my Taito F3 Motherboard region free for the Darksoft Multi. I know its probably obvious how to do it for most people but it might hopefully help some users on here who are not so confident on where to start.

and doing this will allow my J board to play Asian based games? or is this meant for the darksoft mod?
 
It allows your pcb to be region free and play any other region cart or the DS multi.
thank you! kinda crazy, to think that instead of using a completely different pin out, the just added a block insert to region lock lol
 
Mechanical region locks have been used since the 8-bit days or earlier on consoles.
 
It allows your pcb to be region free and play any other region cart or the DS multi.
is it necessary to remove the block all the way to the base, or just expose the pins enough to make proper contact with the board? from what I can tell, the pins on the MoBo do go all the way into the game board.
 
Wait the pins used in the region keyed areas arent used electrically at all for any of the regions????
I guess that makes sense though.

Here I thought I had to do all this fancy cutting and snapping the plastic off around the pins each time I did it for people lmao
 
IIRC the pins in the region block are just extra grounds.

removing the tabs is very easy, HOWEVER you need to do it right from the very start, otherwise it will be more work for you.

if you get a pair of thin needle-nosed pliers and grab the plastic tab firmly as low as you can you can then snap the plastic right at the base and it will pull right out. it takes literally 2 seconds. by grabbing them firmly the pliers help keep the plastic tab from cracking in the center and help focus the stress at the very base for a clean break. But, if you messed up, or tried a different method first and break the plastic tab mid-way then you've made the situation an enormous pain in the ass to get it all out.

I learned this the hard way and snapped my first tab mid way and spent probably a good 30+ minutes trying to get all the plastic out... since then I've probably removed a dozen other tabs using pliers the right way and it's a total breeze: just clamp down firmly, snap left, snap right then pull straight up.
 
Yeah I use the pliers method too. But sometimes the corners have excess sproo left. Usually I take a #11 Xacto blade or some similar style percision cutting thing and just cut down agains the pin and then away and that takes care of that.
 
IIRC the pins in the region block are just extra grounds.

removing the tabs is very easy, HOWEVER you need to do it right from the very start, otherwise it will be more work for you.

if you get a pair of thin needle-nosed pliers and grab the plastic tab firmly as low as you can you can then snap the plastic right at the base and it will pull right out. it takes literally 2 seconds. by grabbing them firmly the pliers help keep the plastic tab from cracking in the center and help focus the stress at the very base for a clean break. But, if you messed up, or tried a different method first and break the plastic tab mid-way then you've made the situation an enormous pain in the ass to get it all out.

I learned this the hard way and snapped my first tab mid way and spent probably a good 30+ minutes trying to get all the plastic out... since then I've probably removed a dozen other tabs using pliers the right way and it's a total breeze: just clamp down firmly, snap left, snap right then pull straight up.
so are the pins necessary to run other region boards?
 
IIRC the pins in the region block are just extra grounds.

removing the tabs is very easy, HOWEVER you need to do it right from the very start, otherwise it will be more work for you.

if you get a pair of thin needle-nosed pliers and grab the plastic tab firmly as low as you can you can then snap the plastic right at the base and it will pull right out. it takes literally 2 seconds. by grabbing them firmly the pliers help keep the plastic tab from cracking in the center and help focus the stress at the very base for a clean break. But, if you messed up, or tried a different method first and break the plastic tab mid-way then you've made the situation an enormous pain in the ass to get it all out.

I learned this the hard way and snapped my first tab mid way and spent probably a good 30+ minutes trying to get all the plastic out... since then I've probably removed a dozen other tabs using pliers the right way and it's a total breeze: just clamp down firmly, snap left, snap right then pull straight up.
is there a place I can read up on the pins? what exactly are they for?
 
They're just connected to ground. It's in the post you quoted, first line. They're not needed for anything.
 
Any suggestions for repairing the Pins? I attempted the mod and one of the pins were bent in the process. I straightened it out and did a test and it worked fine, but now I can't get any video or sound out. Just colors on screen
 
Any suggestions for repairing the Pins?
Repairing? No, at least not very easily.
You can however easily solder in a jump wire(s) to preform the job of the broken pin(s).
This is of course assuming the pin damage really is the issue, sounds "ifie" to me. *shrug*
 
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Repairing? No, at least not very easily.
You can however easily solder in a jump wire(s) to preform the job of the broken pin(s).
This is of course assuming the pin damage really is the issue, sounds "ifie" to me. *shrug*
That's what I was thinking after I made the post. All the pins should read some type of continuity on a continuity test right? I found 3 pins that 0'd out and didn't trigger a sound on my meter. idk if that's by design, but why have a pin put in that doesn't connect to the board at all?
 
but why have a pin put in that doesn't connect to the board at all?
Sometimes hardware only needs x, but the connectors used have y available... So you just leave a few disconnected or double up.
I'm not saying that's the case here (I'm not that familiar with F3's connector) only that I wouldn't find it all that strange.

I blasted/drummed my entire security block (pins and all) out (cuz tweezers are for the weak and the pins are just grounds)! :D
l5DdVL9.jpg
 
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Sometimes hardware only needs x, but the connectors used have y available... So you just leave a few disconnected or double up.
I'm not saying that's the case here (I'm not that familiar with F3's connector) only that I wouldn't find it all that strange.

I blasted/drummed my entire security block (pins and all) out (cuz tweezers are for the weak and the pins are just grounds)! :D
l5DdVL9.jpg
Alright so one more question, can you play Asia boards on Japan MoBo's? I noticed the holes line up the same
20220302_234404.jpg
 
once you have removed the pins you can play all games/all regions :)

But looking at your pictures, Asia/Japan seem to be interchangeable without any modifications ;)
 
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once you have removed the pins you can play all games/all regions :)

But looking at your pictures, Asia/Japan seem to be interchangeable without any modifications ;)
True, but if Asia boards work on the J MoBo I don't have to worry about doing the mod, unless I want to play US based games. From what I can tell though, asia boards are a lot less expensive. I got an Asia version of Dungeon Magic for $140 as opposed to the US version for $500
 
Correct!
Figured you wanted to do the mod for the Darksoft multi :)
 
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