What's new
By:
Filters

Taito F3 Multigame

deibit said:
even thought the case is a nice thing, a decased F3 is pretty compact and stealth when coupled with the motherboard.

The case makes it easier if you want to switch PCBs but you don't really need that if you have a Multi that supports everything....

just my two cents :)
Click to expand...
I agree, it's fairly low profile compared to other setups. I'm more bothered about the LCD as I don't really like having the thing flapping around loose, even if it's in a printed case.

Derick2k said:
Yup, looks like we need laser cut/etched acrylic plates with and without cutouts for the lcd and standalone 3d printed case for the lcd as well.
Click to expand...
Which is more what I'm thinking of. The height of the 'sandwich' will need to increase to accommodate the LCD but it shouldn't be too much taller than a standard cart. I'll see if I can mock something up later.

I'm planning on mounting my LCD on the front vertical solid side of my case. You could maybe do something similar with some brackets on a 'sandwich' style setup. I'll see if I can mock that up too.
 
Asure said:
The flickering is normal behavior when booting a F3 and/or exiting test mode, and cannot be avoided. It's the way Taito made these.
It's like saying "i don't want my screen to flicker when i reset my SNES or Amiga or Megadrive or SMS or <insert random console with reset button>" .
Click to expand...
I perfectly understand this, there are other games which behave like this so it's absolutely normal.

I'll try to be a bit more specific, I'm sorry if I haven't explained myself properly in previous replies.
I'll use Mitsu's video as a reference.

At 5:14 we clearly see the screen flicker as he's exited test mode and got into the game, it's easy to see as the PVM/BVM states "No Sync", meaning the board is sending no signal. It flickers once.
As correctly stated, this can't be prevented, it's how the game behave which is much like other arcade boards and home consoles.
This is fine.

What I'm talking about is when switching the game.
You can see an example in the video from 6:45 to 7:40.
During the entire time of the flash, the screen gets a signal on and off 10 times, the last of which is the game bootup and, for reasons already stated, it can't be avoided.

So what I'm asking is if there's a way to prevent those, apart from the ones which are due to how hardware works.
Signal getting off and on due to the game boot up is fine.
Additional 9 times... I don't know, I personally wouldn't feel safe getting my Nanao MS8 through that.
 
I honestly don't see where you are going with this. This exact same behaviour is on the CPS2 multi. And in many homes of users that turn on/of their Snes as they swap a cartridge (or even use an Everdrive or something like that.). Mitsu's monitor even has functionality in it that knows there is no signal.

If you don't trust your monitor with this, feel free to do so, it's yours. You don't need my permission, or need to care about my (fact based)opinion, it's a free world after all. :D
 
Absolutely!

I was just wondering if that's something which can be dealt with.

Hell, even showing a nice static "Darksoft F3 Multi" Screen while the game was loading would have been nice.

If this can't be done, no problems! :)
 
I hope the conversion tools from MAME dumps to F3-Multi will be shared so we can convert specific games/versions.
 
Asure said:
i'm the one who worked on the rom sets:
...
Anything rom-wise you want to know about, just ask me. Anything that you think is missing, let me know.
Click to expand...
Wow, thanks for all your work!

Asure said:
- I can confirm that Twin Qix has both regions in it. It's a completely different game in JP region.
- Also, there's the Extra version of Bubble Memories (Has both normal and extra mode selectable from boot.)
- And the protection-free version of Super Cup finals that i cooked up.
...
But i don't know about any other games that are maybe 'better' in Japanese region Ver.a.01. or stuff like that, so let me know :)
Click to expand...
I have prototype PCBs of Twin Qix and Landmaker. I believe my Twin Qix has the same files as are in MAME, but I can double check. It has an onboard toggle switch that allows you to select between USA/JAPAN before booting. The Landmaker is a WORLD version, but I'm not aware of anything extra special about the game play (perhaps some language changes?).

On a side note, many moons ago, I'd promised rtw some F3 scans (manuals, artwork, box scans, I used to collect a lot). I can make those available to everyone, if interested.
-ud
 
Is the Landmaker a conversion cart or original? Does it show a version number in the test menus? If so, which version?

Anything undumped is awesome for Mame:)

@rtw it's just a bunch of batch files, I'll post them later tonight.
 
Asure said:
Is the Landmaker a conversion cart or original? Does it show a version number in the test menus? If so, which version?

Anything undumped is awesome for Mame:)

@rtw it's just a bunch of batch files, I'll post them later tonight.
Click to expand...
Landmaker is a real cart, I have the original in deep storage.

Thanks for the heads up on the batch files :D
 
So, I'm thinking something like this:

Initial%20Concept.png


3mm bottom (red in the example above) mutli-PCB would mount to the underside of the spacers with some nylon spacers on either side. Clear 3mm top with cutouts for the selector LCD. Cut out on the right is to feed the ribbon cable through.

Leaves lots of space on top for a nice laser etched logo :)
 
@Darksoft

Quick ?, can the lcd ribbon cable connector be undermounted on the lcd pcb?

I know you can install right angle connector to give better clearance.

Having an undermounted right angle connector would probably be the best option for such an installation like Franco wants to do.
 
Asure said:
Is the Landmaker a conversion cart or original? Does it show a version number in the test menus? If so, which version?

Anything undumped is awesome for Mame:)
Click to expand...
It's an official proto cart. Here's my proto vs a "standard" cart:

F3_PROTO_VS_PRODUCTION.jpg


I'll have to fire it up to check the test menu for version. It's been a while since I played anything :(

-ud
 
undamned said:
I'll have to fire it up to check the test menu for version. It's been a while since I played anything
Click to expand...
That's a sweet bit of gaming history. I love proto hardware.

Ver 2.02 O 1998/06/02 (O=other, World) appears to be dumped, curious if yours is different. Anything for preservation :)
 
Derick2k said:
@Darksoft

Quick ?, can the lcd ribbon cable connector be undermounted on the lcd pcb?

I know you can install right angle connector to give better clearance.

Having an undermounted right angle connector would probably be the best option for such an installation like Franco wants to do.
Click to expand...
I think a right angle ribbon cable connector would be better. The height would be less than the LCD then. If you undermount the ribbon cable you would still be increasing the overall height needed for the LCD board.
 
Lions3 said:
Derick2k said:
@Darksoft

Quick ?, can the lcd ribbon cable connector be undermounted on the lcd pcb?

I know you can install right angle connector to give better clearance.

Having an undermounted right angle connector would probably be the best option for such an installation like Franco wants to do.
Click to expand...
I think a right angle ribbon cable connector would be better. The height would be less than the LCD then. If you undermount the ribbon cable you would still be increasing the overall height needed for the LCD board.
Click to expand...
Cool, I have a few right angle connectors handy, so....

We just need the plexi case then :D
 
FrancoB said:
So, I'm thinking something like this:

Initial%20Concept.png


3mm bottom (red in the example above) mutli-PCB would mount to the underside of the spacers with some nylon spacers on either side. Clear 3mm top with cutouts for the selector LCD. Cut out on the right is to feed the ribbon cable through.

Leaves lots of space on top for a nice laser etched logo :)
Click to expand...
NAME THE PRICE!!!!!
 
@FrancoB 's case, with the LCD ribbon holes on top removed and an additional bottom plexi layer with rubber feet for the F3 mainboard to sit on - that would be a plexi-sandwich dream come true.
 
Asure said:
undamned said:
I'll have to fire it up to check the test menu for version. It's been a while since I played anything
Click to expand...
That's a sweet bit of gaming history. I love proto hardware.
Ver 2.02 O 1998/06/02 (O=other, World) appears to be dumped, curious if yours is different. Anything for preservation :)
Click to expand...
I wouldn't be surprised if it was the same version just some (if not all) roms are just smaller. Similar to the AM and OP versions of the SSF2X from Japan.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top