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True flat bezel for Blast City

nonosto

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Hello

True flat filler for blast city is no longer for sale by river service and I would like to upgrade my blast with TF Toshiba know by all from NNC. I cant succes to find used filler, and I thinking about other solutions. For example transfom a TF bezel from NNC to blast, cut the excess plastic and integrate the clip.
Does it possible and how?
Second solution filler the original bezel, with ABS welding.
Please help me .

Thanks
 
In the above blog they put a semi-curved Blast City tube in place of a curved Astro one, used spacers to close the gap and filled the remaining empty space with a foam strip.

But ultimately, they just bought an empty Blast City cab to house the Blast tube in.

Which is the best choice IMO. Keeping tubes where they belong.

I know, not a helpful post. But honestly, I don't think 293x to PF is an upgrade.
 
I know but but I have an empty blast city and the blast chassis is very weak.
 
The River Service filler is just that, a filler. It fills the gap between monitor and bezel. It's not required to fit the monitor inside the cab. It's purely cosmetic.

You can find other ways to fill the gap, like some sort of foam. Cutting an original NNC bezel seems rather extreme, and very risky unless you know what you're doing.

Also, I've seen quite a lot of these Blast City with Wei Ya monitor and RS filler, and it looks wrong. The flat surface of the monitor does not fit with the curves of the cab. The filler won't change that.

I'd advice you to grab an empty NUC or Net City instead to fit that monitor, if you already have the right bezel. And put a semi curved TV inside that Blast.
 
I have already a NNC. One picture from my last Japan's trip:

tf_bla10.jpg

tf_bla11.jpg


I dont remeber exactly but I am pretty sure was TF in blast.
Another way 3D print from NNC Bezel?
 
Hard to tell the chassis from a picture. From my experience, Blast monitors used to be replaced by Wei Ya chassis, I've seen that a lot, but never with a Toshiba PF. Toshiba chassis tend to have geometry deformation on the top of the picture on 15kHz, but not always with CPS2.

Just fill that gap with some adhesive foam. 3D model + print is way overkill for such a non-issue.
 
I have an ms2931 in a New Astro City. I printed spacers to push it out as much as possible and live with the gap. I didn't put foam but it would be easy enough to do. I imagine putting a flat tube behind a curved bezel is probably easier to close up than dealing with mismatched curves.

Which is the best choice IMO. Keeping tubes where they belong.
If only it was that easy.
 
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