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ChrisBEANS

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This is all posted elsewhere on the interwebs, but I'm making a conscious effort to contribute here rather than just surf the Marketplace forum...

So I picked up a U4 some time ago in decent condition, but needed a little TLC.

I've always wanted one with a chrome CP, but could never find one. Eventually found a U4 with a white CP surround being sold by a very well respected bloke in Sweden so I took the plunge.

Sadly, when it arrived the Operator who had it in circulation had removed the original coin mech and memory card module, and riveted the holes closed.

Missing was the very cool coin entry, and sadly the CP surround had been very poorly repainted.

It hadn’t been done well, was rough to the touch and was generally crappy.

rySJs7Y.jpg


A real shame as the original powder coating on the rest of the cab is in decent shape considering its age.

The underside of the CP housing was even worse. It’d been painted with some horrible black stuff and all the components including the hinge and the brackets for the locks had been painted on.

It had to be refinished in any case, and I’d always desperately wanted the chrome (or stainless steel maybe??) CP surround, but I could never find one, or a cab for sale with one.

So my options were:-

1 - Strip it, and paint it white again but properly, or maybe powder coat it. - problem here is that unless I did the whole cab, the new white would be a contrast and likely jarring.

2 - Strip it, and polish it up to look like the stainless CP surround. - problem was that although the white paint stripped off without issue, the black stuff inside was impossible to shift. It also turned out that the metal underneath wasn’t suitable for polishing, nor do I have the skill to do an adequate job in any case.

3 - Strip it, and get it chromed by the bigger boys - problem with this, is that it’s not authentically as the cab was made.

I’m all for authenticity, and faithful, sympathetic restoration but as the CP surround had already been repainted, and needed to be stripped and refinished anyway, so I figured I’d opt for the chroming…

Here it is after I stripped it myself...

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The inside made me sad…

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As I couldn't sort it myself I sent it off to a metal finishers, and these are the pictures they sent back...

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Got it back, fitted it, and added a few decals, and added an NV RAM module the the motherboard too.

Managed to source an OG coin entry, although it has to be said that it's strictly decorative as what used to be the coin reject button is now a coin up button.

kMRnd5V.jpg


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Next up was something else that was bugging me...
The U4 does not use EL panels. Instead, it uses a fluorescent bulb inside the light box behind the mini marquees.

Unfortunately, it's too bright, occasionally has a hum associated with fluorescent tubes, and there's not only a ton of light bleed at the edges of the enclosure, but it also highlights all of the knocks and scratches that the mini marquee cover has taken through years of real world use that just looks crap.

N8TgB8O.jpg


So I decided to grab some EL panels from www.neogeoledmarquee.info

http://www.neogeoledmarquee.info/product/4-slot-slim-universal/

However, this cab is original, and is in largely good shape, so I'm not looking to do anything destructive, nor am I wiling to take the old bulb out and store it as it'll certainly get damaged and that will end up being unintentionally destructive.

I thought about simply unplugging the bulb, but that's hardly an elegant solution, so instead I opted to add an inline switch...

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Next was to establish a way to fit the EL panels onto a cabinet that doesn't use them, and to also keep the original mini marquee holder.

Turns out that was an obvious and dead simple solution. Adhesive strips, cut to size.

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Was pretty straight forward to carefully place them in front of the bulb, and although it was a pretty close fit, they all went in perfectly across the width of the mini marquee holder.

c1ZIurF.jpg


Sadly, the wires from the EL panels were not quite long enough to mount the control PCB inside the cabinet, so I needed to find a place inside the light box and still have access to the buttons and the potentiometer on the PCB itself. Again, tight, but perfectly adequate. (The feet of the PCB are also held to the cab with trimmed down adhesive strips)

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It's very simple and self explanatory to wire up, and the cable between the PCB and the MVS motherboard was plenty long enough.

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As I said above, very straight forward to wire up, so I was actually worried that if it didn't work when I switched it on, it was unlikely to be a simple fix but more likely a problem with either the PCB or even the motherboard. No need to worry...

https://imgur.com/a/jNv6BMO <- VIDEO

Quick double check on the bulb...

Safe and sound.

https://imgur.com/gallery/qymHqCW <- VIDEO

And I think I'm done for the day.

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Last thing...

This cab was obviously broken into back in the day.

kC3q3x9.jpg


While I'm not fussed enough to get the whole thing straightened out and powder coated, and in fact I'm actually quite pleased to have a cab that reflects the life it's lead, I'd still like to tidy that mess up.

As I have the adhesive pads out...

84IjubJ.jpg


Added a frame I ordered for it months ago.

Now, I'm just about done with messing with the U4 I think...

Bit's I haven't bothered to document are the addition of both a memory module and a memory card PCB. Can't plug both in at once of course, so it's much neater to have the memory dealt with on the memory module that sits descretely on the motherboard, and the then use the memory card PCB just for the headphone sockets.

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Cool, I was planning on doing the EL panels on my U4 as well, but could not find anyone else who had done them, leading me to believe that maybe they didn't fit or something. Mine had the original fluorescent rig completely removed by the previous operator or something anyway so I just have a LED lightbar in there now. Nice work!
 
Hi,

Very good job, i have a u4 and get the same control panel, i hope i could do the same.
how much have you paid for chrom it ?

tks
 
It was £200…

Not cheap, but I think it was worth it…
yes but yours cp is perfect....

may be i will try your second option, if i can do it or the result is not good i will chromed it by a company.

Do you got spare for your u4?
 
I do have a spare CP, but it’s pretty rusty. I’m told it’d be suitable to be chromed, but there’s no point in having two.

I might see if it’s capable of being painted white so I could have the cab as intended too if I choose.

If the rust is so bad that it’s only suitable for being chemically treated and chromed, then I’ve toyed with the idea of maybe turning it into a fight stick, or even a supergun with an Axun mini gun inside and maybe a retrotink…

Another project for another day…
 
thats a proper chrome job, they plated it with copper first.

it needs the coin return cup though - the blanking plate looks tacky
 
thats a proper chrome job, they plated it with copper first.

it needs the coin return cup though - the blanking plate looks tacky
I’d love to put one back on, but finding the coin entry was hard enough 😒
 
Bit of an update coming… big upgrade to the PVM 😎
So, this is the saddest thing ever...

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This should be my complete, final form setup.

Upgraded to an NEC 4PG Multisync monitor. Was twatting about with it today, and managed to blow it up. Horizontal collapse.

ULO2uip.jpg


While it was working, it was beautiful!!
 

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The reason the monitor moved to the middle is that I have an order on the way from Axun, and the Windy II only has a 1p panel. With the Axun bits, I'd have been able to mirror the Windy to the monitor for the rare occasion I can find a player 2.

RIP NEC monitor
 
interesting, normally the hirizontal yoke drives/is driven by the HT.
 
as long as you dont break the tube - anything can be fixed. :)
good news is NEC do have schematics available.
 
Can’t be fixed?
It looks like it might be going in for repair, and while it's there it'll get a service and new quiet fans too... Fingers crossed it works!!

as long as you dont break the tube - anything can be fixed. :)
good news is NEC do have schematics available.
Do you have a link? I've managed to find the service manual for the XM29, which I'm told is a very similar model, but I can't find one specific to the 4PG
 
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