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Where to start with these?

msamiullah

msamiullah

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I recently got these boards (Sega rally championship) and Daytona 2. I never owned model 2/model 3 board, How do I start with these?
1) How can I hook these up to test if these work ?
2) what other peices to these boards ? like other modules.
3) Are there any options to use logitech USB based wheels somehow ? I do not have space for any racer cabinet so would never own one, what are my options to play these in a confined space ? Thanks.

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PS. Quite overwhelmed with the size of these boards and specially the cases are massive :S
 
I'm not saying they don't work but I'd wager some ram on one or the other is bad if they do.
You'll need to wire up the filterboard. There's not any jvs or jamma.
Model2 is 5v Model 3 is 5v and 3.3v
Two different harnesses/pinout.
 
You can do it.
@twistedsymphony has a pinout guide on here.
Personally I wire controls to jamma and power from an atx but I know some people dislike that option. They draw too much power for any jamma.
 
Currently no but I am debating getting into harnesses.
There's some on aliexpress or you can buy a pullout jamma adapter one off ebay and trim it down.
 
Both of these appear to be missing the filterboards, you'll need those if you wan to hook these up to anything.

as was stated, I made pinouts for these: http://solid-orange.com/1273
but those are the filter-board pinouts, without the filterboards the diagrams make no sense.

if you have a Blast City or Versus city (Or the rare Astro City II) those are really the only cabs that ever had a dedicated harnesses for these boards but you're not going to be able to play any racing games like that.

Also these games will ONLY Run in Medium Resolution.

Kidkaos said:
Honestly, easiest way to see if they work would be to drop them into a friend's Model 2 supported cab.
Click to expand...
^this is the best advice in the thread given all of the requirements to run these boards and that there's a very good change they have issues.
 
Last edited:
all good thanks for sharing, can you copy paste me the description text, I will keep an eye for these in future, thanks again man.
 
You can ask him to make an adapter that will interface with JVS power instead (JST VL). I had him do that so I could connect a Model 3 to JVS PSU and it works great. I think he sells it now, check his other listings.

+1 to twisted's advice - do not use non-adjustable PSUs for M2/M3. You often need to crank the voltage to account for voltage drop.
 
I do not have a JVS power supply anymore, would an Astro City PSU be able to provide enough wattage to run model2/model 3?
 
I use an ATX supply for running a variety of Model 2 and Model 3 boards and have had no problems. Just don't use a cheapo and check your voltages at the chips and you'll be fine.

Also, I'd take the daytona 2 board off your hands when you're done with it :)
 
Its my opinion that running jumper wires on pcbs and thicker wiring mitigates the need for voltage adjustments for the most part when using atx with a self adjusting stable 5v rail.
Not everyone wants to rewire a cab or solder mod pcbs though.
I see pros to both. I like the jvs idea too.
 
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