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@jassin000

Waiting for you to confirm that monitor works with the bracket, make sure input/power ports clear.

Also, are you going to try to relocate controls?

Unless another monitor becomes available, for now this the best/lowest priced one to get with those specs.
 
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jassin000 said:
Really? I mean wasn't he rumored to have written more than half of her "Live Through This" album?
I can't see why she should want him dead, he was the only thing propping up her talent-less ass.
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Well, if he was going to divorce her, that might be motive. Anyhow, lets just say she didnt do it just like OJ didnt =O :D
 
5F561258-E40F-4EBF-9279-C675E6D8E682.gif
 
I'm looking to secure my Saturn and/or undamned adapters to the HAS, but I'm having trouble finding the right screws to lock them in place. I initially thought I could simply harvest them from VGA cables I'm not using, but the "handles" are too fat, and even the ones I ordered Digikey didn't work. The HAS FAQ states you need "DSUB screw locks with a 10~11mm long thread." Can anyone here please link me to the correct size and length of screw lock?

Thanks :)
 
ItsACerealWow said:
I'm looking to secure my Saturn and/or undamned adapters to the HAS, but I'm having trouble finding the right screws to lock them in place. I initially thought I could simply harvest them from VGA cables I'm not using, but the "handles" are too fat, and even the ones I ordered Digikey didn't work. The HAS FAQ states you need "DSUB screw locks with a 10~11mm long thread." Can anyone here please link me to the correct size and length of screw lock?

Thanks :)
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@opt2not I think had some awhile ago for sale or something. He can probably help you.
 
jassin000 said:
darhgo said:
I'll make sure to get a freesync the next time I'm looking for a display.
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Don't forget QHD, the OSSC at its highest 5x supports 1600x1200.This of course will also work on a UHD/4K but its over kill if this is all you want supported.

If all you have is a HD/1920x1080/1080p 5x mode is cropped and looks like shit (better to use 4x in that case).
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Gotcha. I'm not ever going to replace the monitor in the cab unless is breaks but eventually I'll get another gaming display.
 
jassin000 said:
darhgo said:
I'll make sure to get a freesync the next time I'm looking for a display.
Click to expand...
Don't forget QHD, the OSSC at its highest 5x supports 1600x1200.This of course will also work on a UHD/4K but its over kill if this is all you want supported.

If all you have is a HD/1920x1080/1080p 5x mode is cropped and looks like shit (better to use 4x in that case).
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A lot of games use overscan in the vertical areas on console titles and look good cropped out on 5x.

Arcade PCB'S are a little different and still need compatibility updates for high vertical resolution titles like IREM boards on OSSC even after messing with your active vertical area and POST COAST PLL settings.

The choice to use a 1440p over a 4K is a wise one as OSSC Pro will support 6x intergers off the bat. 240x6=1440. Im sure 9x 60 is not going to make it according to marqs.

If more people test their 4K displays for a true 3x internal interger we could be seeing good results by using 3x on these devices as well further utilizing all the OSSC that are here delaying the obsolete.

What really needs to happen is display manufacturers acknowledging the need for integer scaling options built into the set.

Viewsonic is coming around and Radeon has had compatible integer scaling built into their video cards for years..

Now I kinda want to buy a 1440p display as they are becoming obsolete before we even need them yet for OSSC pro.
 
darhgo said:
I'm not ever going to replace the monitor in the cab unless is breaks but eventually
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WHEN it breaks, not unless... And yea, I'll see ya in about 5 years or less.
Remember if your machine is used it came from an arcade floor where it was on basically 365.
Yes the LCD is a little more durable than your basic LCD TV, but they still aren't rated for anywhere near the life expediency of a CRT.

First the colors/contrast will wash out, then the brightness contrast will go... Before you know it you'll be looking at crap.
 
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jassin000 said:
Yes the LCD is a little more durable than your basic LCD TV, but they still aren't rated for anywhere near the life expediency of a CRT.
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Curiosity has bitten.

What are the life expectancies of your typical LCD/CRT, and professional grade LCD/CRT's? Like the on-paper manufacturer ones.
 
xtrasmiley said:
ItsACerealWow said:
I'm looking to secure my Saturn and/or undamned adapters to the HAS, but I'm having trouble finding the right screws to lock them in place. I initially thought I could simply harvest them from VGA cables I'm not using, but the "handles" are too fat, and even the ones I ordered Digikey didn't work. The HAS FAQ states you need "DSUB screw locks with a 10~11mm long thread." Can anyone here please link me to the correct size and length of screw lock?

Thanks :)
Click to expand...
@opt2not I think had some awhile ago for sale or something. He can probably help you.
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Not for sale, I was giving them away for free!

But i'm all out now.

@ItsACerealWow I got these ones that fit perfectly: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KWV9YQ9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
rewrite said:
What are the life expectancies of your typical LCD/CRT, and professional grade LCD/CRT's?
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My understanding is its not about total hours on the monitor so much as hours of viewing per day...

From a simple Google search:
Consumer TVs are designed to operate for the few hours a day someone is home, relaxing in front of TV shows, movies, or video games. Commercial televisions, by contrast, are specifically engineered to continuously operate between 16 and 24 hours per day, and up to 7 days per week

Screen/Glass – The screen itself is also a factor. Commercial grade screens often tout having enhanced glass modules designed for long hours of operation and that are less sensitive to image retention issues. “True commercial models use a commercial grade glass that has multiple layers allowing for 7/24/365 operation cycles.”

I can't really find hard numbers on total hours, but take the warranty for example.
On Consumer TV I'm seeing anything from 90 days to 2 years extended.
On pros I'm seeing 5 years parts and labor baseline.
 
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jassin000 said:
darhgo said:
I'm not ever going to replace the monitor in the cab unless is breaks but eventually
Click to expand...
WHEN it breaks, not unless... And yea, I'll see ya in about 5 years or less.Remember if your machine is used it came from an arcade floor where it was on basically 365.
Yes the LCD is a little more durable than your basic LCD TV, but they still aren't rated for anywhere near the life expediency of a CRT.

First the colors/contrast will wash out, then the brightness contrast will go... Before you know it you'll be looking at crap.
Click to expand...
It's not, it's new (a customized chewlix) with a 1080p Samsung panel in it. But yeah! Thanks for all the knowledge drops man. Appreciate it very much.
 
Derick2k said:
Im gonna tear the monitor open to see if I can relocate controls.
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You do you D, but I HIGHLY recommend you do NOT do this.
Reasons why...
  • Monitor has one button that functions like a POV hat and it sits deep inside the base of the frame
  • Monitor reverts to the last state perfectly (ie pull the AC plug and it shuts off, plug it back in and it turns back on no need for pwr button)
You should NEVER need to adjust anything on this monitor after dialing it in for HDMI1/Freesync/colors.
OSSC is always going to be outputting 1600x1200, only the syncs will be different and this is Freesync so...

Oh and finally you don't need to worry about "what if I wanted to use a different input" because this hasn't got any.
Its only HDMI and Display Port, and I can't get it to display ANYTHING from the OSSC via DP adapters (I suspect because its mega fancy DP2.4 or something).

If you want VGA, its going to be provided by OSSC.
For better or worse this is basically a one input wonder that has little to no use in the arcade world without an OSSC.

Unrelated, but since you also asked for a pic of the new feet installed...
xrUoX69.jpg
 
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Thats fine, they are cheap enough monitors. I already duplicated/relocated controls on the Taito ones from behind the coin door to under the CP using a switch like this,

5-way Navigation switch_2-1000x750.jpg

makes them much easier to access and adjust monitors. But like you say once they are dialed in, shouldnt need to touch them. Plus the extra buttons serve as test/service as well.

Thanks for info :thumbup:
 
while we are in this, what's the play for connecting brooks boards to multiple systems? is that just something that needs a manual cable swap?
 
darhgo said:
while we are in this, what's the play for connecting brooks boards to multiple systems? is that just something that needs a manual cable swap?
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If you have a Switch involved, it definitely requires manually moving cables around as you have to hold down LK when inserting to put it into "Switch mode".

Whether a KVM or something similar would work for PC/PS4/XOne, not quite sure.
 
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