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Everten Taito F3 IO Board (Stereo Audio + CPS2 kick)

everten

everten

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This thread will no longer be updated. I've consolidated all of my add-on boards into a single thread at:
https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/new-stereo-kick-harness-add-on-boards-everten.16347/

All are available for purchase at https://www.tindie.com/stores/everten



Everten Taito F3 IO Board

Adds line-level stereo RCA connectors and a CPS2 kick harness to the Taito F3. No soldering required. The IO board mounts directly to the audio heat sink and connects to the AA connector via wire harness. The kit includes everything you need.

For those with the Lions3 or other cases, there is an optional add-on to allow easier access to the jumper at JP3 which is for changing between joystick and spinner controls. The spinner switch add-on includes an onboard switch and a secondary wire harness that plugs into JP3.

The kit is compatible with the Lions 3 F3 multi case using a modified left riser. The left riser is available for purchase as an add-on or you can download the STL and print it yourself. Details and STL download link can be found at the bottom of this post.

Also works well with the @twistedsymphony F3 Multi LCD Holster.


f3_io_kit.jpg
f3_io_standard_full.jpg
f3_io_corner_lions.jpg

File_000(5).jpeg
File_000(3).jpeg




Installation Instructions: https://www.arcade-projects.com/attachments/everten_taito_f3_io_board_installation-pdf.48225/

Please read the entire installation instructions prior to installation. DO NOT remove the screws from the IO board. There are extra screws included to assist with threading the heat sink.

If the audio sounds unbalanced or is only coming out of one speaker you must check the balance adjustment in the service menu. It is common for the balance to need adjustment when changing games using the multi cart.




Lions 3 Everten F3 Left Riser

STL file available here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4622867

Requires 2 x #4-40 x 0.135" heat-set threaded inserts. Example:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BH5X252/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can attempt to extract the threaded inserts from the original left riser, but I have not tried this so use your own judgement.

It is also help to have the Heat-Set Insert Installation Tip and compatible soldering iron. Example:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078K72615/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1



Original post:

I'm starting to design a board to add stereo RCA connectors to the Taito F3. Similar to the ST-V board here.

I realize the audio will need to be attenuated if I tap the S connector. However, this is new territory for me. I'm trying to learn the different methods used to accomplish this without compromising the audio quality. The resistor divider seems simple and widely used, but is it desirable? If anyone with experience in this area is able to chime in it would be appreciated.

I want to make sure this is compatible with @twistedsymphony and @Lions3 case designs.

My initial thoughts are to mount the board on top of the audio heat sink. It looks like I can squeeze 2 RCA connectors over there and use a wire harness to the S connector. The design below would just fit to right of the left riser and under the top acrylic of the Lions 3 case. It should also clear the LCD housing. Hard to get the alignment to look right in the overlay, but you get the idea.


50101963922_38d858dd8a.jpg


This is all subject to change, just getting some ideas out there.
 

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  • Everten_Taito_F3_IO_Board_Installation.pdf
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Last edited:
Speak of the devil... USPS just knocked and delivered the @twistedsymphony F3 selector case and holster. This thing is sweet. Some of the cleanest 3D printing I've seen.
 
fluxcore said:
Do you only want a no-solder mod? There are solder points for line-level audio so that you don't have to take the S-connector and then put a circuit after it... Taito f3 stereo pinout issue
Click to expand...
Correct. I want it to be a drop-in solution. I’ll add the attenuation circuit to the add-on PCB.

Edit: I guess I’m open to solder mod depending on circumstances...
 
Last edited:
Oh damn. Sold off my STV from disuse, but I'm still loving my F3. Following with interest.
 
Nice work! I like the "no solder" design of your works thus far. I don't mind soldering, but the fact these things are little modular plug-and-play devices is part of the appeal. Look forward to this and your future works.
 
everten said:
I realize the audio will need to be attenuated if I tap the S connector. However, this is new territory for me. I'm trying to learn the different methods used to accomplish this without compromising the audio quality. The resistor divider seems simple and widely used, but is it desirable? If anyone with experience in this area is able to chime in it would be appreciated.
Click to expand...
Almost every speaker level audio attenuation circuit I have see uses a resistor based voltage divider circuit. You can also do it via transformers, but audio transformers for that purpose are supper expensive.

The concern that most would have would be in the impedance matching department (not sure if its really needed in this case though) , you could use a buffer circuit (I forget if its non-inverting or inverting) with an amplification ratios of 1:1. Im sure you can use a simple op-amp for this. All in all it would be a very small circuit/minimal components if you were to go that route.

Cant wait to see what you come up with :)
 
I made a little progress. I got a 3D printer which is proving to be super helpful in printing mock PCBs. I think the design will work, but it's a really tight fit. My plan at the moment is to make an additional PCB with 2 female connectors to interconnect the stereo PCB and Taito PCB. This would avoid having to use a wire harness and support the board. There's a chance I'll still have to do a wire harness since the tolerances on the PCB might not allow for drilling so close to the board edge.

You can see the fit below with the Lions 3 case. There isn't much room to work with. The RCA connectors will extend out from the board edge, unlike the STV board where I was able to make them flush with the board edge.



50131215158_3d4981ddbb.jpg
50131215188_ae9cf70d61.jpg
 
Looking promising, keep up the good work!

Love the 3D printed PCBs :)
 
Nice job!

Are you going to be adding a kick harness + stereo option like the STV as well?
 
opt2not said:
Nice job!

Are you going to be adding a kick harness + stereo option like the STV as well?
Click to expand...
I think there’s only one game that supports kick harness. I didn’t think it was worth it.

I could extend the board to the right and add a CPS2 connector, but it wouldn’t fit with the Lions case. It would work with the @twistedsymphony cradle though.

If there is enough interest I’ll make 2 versions.
 
Looking good. For completeness sake a kick harness would be welcome. The game that uses it is Kaiser Knuckle aka Global Champion.
 
everten said:
djsheep said:
For completeness sake a kick harness would be welcome.
Click to expand...
I know... but making wire harnesses sucks. And what’s the kick connector on the F3, 11 pin like the STV? Is it straight CPS1 wiring?
Click to expand...
It’s 10-pin, and shares the same pinout and connector as CPS1.

CPS1:
D428FA47-CF52-4F7B-A5DC-AC674D68DB01.jpeg


Taito F3:
99C192B6-81C5-46D3-83C9-0E40CCEBFC06.jpeg
 
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