I have a jamma converted playchoice 10 dual screen cabinet I purchased many years ago. It has 2 sharp xm-2001n monitors. My top monitor is doing a weird warp image, adjustments aren’t doing anything. I was told by someone the yolk is bad and would have to replace the monitor, I figured maybe it needed to be re-capped. I’m not savvy on doing the repairs myself so I’d have to source someone to fix it. Are there any other options I have to keep it crt or should I change them to lcd, any help is appreciated!
- Thread starter xshezx
- Start date
It's a 19" tube. Those are very common in CRT TV sets. You could gut a TV and then transplant the tube and yoke.
Three things have to match:
Tube size
Yoke specs
Neck connector
There's a thread for that sort of thing here:
https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/in-this-thread-we-tube-and-yoke-swap-monitors.12917/
Three things have to match:
Tube size
Yoke specs
Neck connector
There's a thread for that sort of thing here:
https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/in-this-thread-we-tube-and-yoke-swap-monitors.12917/
I’m pretty sure a K7000 skinny yoke is an acceptable substitute, At least for the XM-1801. I had a bad one on one of my Red Tent monitors and I used a spare yoke from a trashed 2001 so I think they’re close enough to exchange them.
The yokes on the Sharp XM1801/2001N are known to go bad, and this is likely the culprit to your problem. Assuming the chassis is fine (I think it is), you will need to (or contract someone to) do a yoke swap. That will involve taking the top monitor out of the cabinet and removing the flyback and neckboard (i.e., discharging the tube) and then removing the yoke. Video is linked for context here.
A 19" P477 Wells Gardner K7000 chassis (small neck) and its yoke work fine on a Sharp XM2001N tube. The Sharp yoke measures 2.0 Ohm for horizontal resistance and 14.6 Ohm for vertical resistance. The Wells Gardner yoke generally measures 2.4 Ohm and 12.8 Ohm respectively. Inductance measurements for Wells Gardner yoke are 1.59 Mh and 30.9 Mh. I have done this swap before on a XM-1801 (the 17" variant) and it was successful. The tricky part is locating a yoke that is 22.5mm in inner diameter (i.e., small neck or known informally as "CR-31") as opposed to the more common 29mm variant (i.e., standard neck or informally as "CR-23"). Ebay will be your best best, but if you come up empty I may have one somewhere.
However, I should note that should you want to use the Wells Gardner chassis in your Playchoice set up, that will take some extra work. The Playchoice does not amplify its audio on the game pcb, it relies on the monitor to handle the amplification. The Wells Gardner chassis does not do this so a workaround amplifier needs to be added to the audio circuit. This can be wired in, but its not a simple swap if that is what you think about doing. Edit, I just looked at your pictures and I see now that you are not running Nintendo PCB hardware any more.
Please do not LCD an original Playchoice. Frankly, that should not even be an option when you have a good tube (assuredly not your problem). This forum can help you get your monitor up and going. We all gotta start somewhere learning to work on these and this is not hard with a little bit of preliminary research. Post questions in response and best of luck!
A 19" P477 Wells Gardner K7000 chassis (small neck) and its yoke work fine on a Sharp XM2001N tube. The Sharp yoke measures 2.0 Ohm for horizontal resistance and 14.6 Ohm for vertical resistance. The Wells Gardner yoke generally measures 2.4 Ohm and 12.8 Ohm respectively. Inductance measurements for Wells Gardner yoke are 1.59 Mh and 30.9 Mh. I have done this swap before on a XM-1801 (the 17" variant) and it was successful. The tricky part is locating a yoke that is 22.5mm in inner diameter (i.e., small neck or known informally as "CR-31") as opposed to the more common 29mm variant (i.e., standard neck or informally as "CR-23"). Ebay will be your best best, but if you come up empty I may have one somewhere.
Please do not LCD an original Playchoice. Frankly, that should not even be an option when you have a good tube (assuredly not your problem). This forum can help you get your monitor up and going. We all gotta start somewhere learning to work on these and this is not hard with a little bit of preliminary research. Post questions in response and best of luck!
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Wow, thanks for the info! I for sure would love to keep it crt, and am definitely going to have to outsource someone to do it, it’s beyond my scope of skills. I guess the search for some wells parts begins! I really appreciate all the info and help
I'm not sure I follow. Why the yoke swap? Just grab a 19" CRT TV and swap both the tube and the yoke. 2 ohm horizontal yoke and small neck should be very common.
https://www.arcade-projects.com/thr...obbyist-activity-of-the-day.8421/#post-136855
https://www.arcade-projects.com/thr...obbyist-activity-of-the-day.8421/#post-136855
KalessinDB
Grand Master
Are you upstate by any chance? I might have a spare monitor you can have.
KalessinDB
Grand Master
I'm in Rochester so might not be worth it, but shoot me a DM if you want to come pick it up. No charge. It was given to me as working (by a friend who did an LCD swap for a bar owner), but I have not personally tested it. He did pull it out of a Nintendo cabinet though, so that's a bonus...
@nem i agree most consumer tv yokes from the 1990s are compatible but here in the states the supply of tvs one can get locally can be limited. Shipping a tube can be expensive. Plus it’s a known compatible swap using the wg yoke. Hence I suggested the more affordable and known route, but you’re right using a consumer yoke likely works too. I’d try that if op has access to a local supply.
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