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I don't think I've ran any 2x6 System in a Blast but I would still use the io to ensure you're getting power to the system.

The ribbon cable I think is power to the cd rom drive or data. And the other is probably power. I can't recall but they're needed.
Ribbon cable for dvd drive makes sense. Ok sweet thanks!
 
I can. I have parts.
@Lemony Vengeance I am down. I got the VF3 adapter you sent, however it must be an issue with the board as I am still not seeing characters on screen.

I played with the POTs but it still had the same behavior.

Just missed a steal on ebay VF3 with cage $300 looked in great condition and tested as working.
 
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Does anyone know the estimated value of VF2? I'm just seeing super high ebay prices at the moment. Over $1000.
 
What’s the proper color of the inside of a Astro door? This coin box door and almost all of mine are half white half metal color.

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Idk if anyone has dealt with "youngerarcade" on eBay or Ali Express but I just picked up a System 256 tested with DVD drive and Tekken 5 Disc and Dongle from AliExpress for $199.99 with free shipping. It says 2 months shipping so i'm assuming on a boat but not sure if it will come sooner than that.

I bought a Sun PSU from them once on eBay and it turned out fine. Just FYI in case anyone was looking.

I told myself to chill out on Arcade purchases but I think a System 256 on eBay is usually at least $350 with no game.

So the goal now is to put Tekken 4 and 5 together in a tri-sync cab in the future.
 
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So I reseated the pcbs on VF3. First attempt I noticed one was really not plugged in well at all on the side, turned it on and got characters but that were mostly gray.

Reseated gently the ones in the back of the stack and boom! Finally seeing characters. All graphics appear to be working now.

However, my coins are not being detected when using Lemonys power adapter and the test button on my Blast City cabinet does not work.

I switched over to test with the VF3 Blast City Harness and test and service buttons worked and I was able to register coins that I inserted.

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Other things I'm perplexed about are dark levels are really really dark, there is a loud buzzing sound from speakers on Blast City or Sun PSU power, and the sounds are kinda faint and washed out.

Certain punches and kicks are bearly audible while other sounds like the sound-effect right before a level starts are clear as day. The announcer is also really hard to hear.

I had a Mistercade in my Blast Previously and Naomi 2 Net Dimm and had no crazy loud buzzing or major sound issues.

I believe they have Model 3 Sound Amp boards but not sure if that would be worth exploring?
 
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Ok I think I got the buzzing and sound issue sorted.
 
What is the best way to add a subwoofer to my Blast City in terms of wiring? Wish everything just had RCA out but no such luck on VF3.

Idk if any of these?

838-11651 [Low pass amp]

838-10141 [Audio mixer board - with woofer]

838-13616 [AUDIO POWER AMP 2CH (NAOMI)]

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I usually add an AYAMI amp for arcade systems that have RCA out and just power it with a normal wall plug but not sure how to power Sega Amps or how the inputs \ connectors into the amp would work.
 
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Got my system 246 io board. Tried all dip switches off with video going thru jamma and 1 off and the rest on with VGA attached. Trying it on my Blast City MS-2931 but no luck so far. Getting green bars or a green screen. Assuming it has to do with sync but idk what I’m doing wrong.

I'm hearing the dings on startup - and can briefly see some text sometimes. Wondering if I just need to try this on another cab \ PC monitor.

Could be the disc or disc drive too not sure a this point
 
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This is far as I get. 6 beeps so I guess my dvd drive doesn’t work or my discs? I burned one from internet and one that came with the unit.

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Thanks to @phokkun for pointing me in the right direction on this. I need to diffuse the light but am working on a couple ideas. Also ordered a repro marquee that should pop and not be so faded.

G23 to GU10 adapter and disconnect the ballast wires (I snipped) and re-connected the pink wire going into the socket with a simple wire nut.

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Thanks to @phokkun for pointing me in the right direction on this. I need to diffuse the light but am working on a couple ideas. Also ordered a repro marquee that should pop and not be so faded.

G23 to GU10 adapter and disconnect the ballast wires (I snipped) and reconnect the pink wires going into the socket.

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I got a spare repro marquee for you. Pm me.
 
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No soldering? I'll take it. I've seen those adapters for the old-school IDE power plug but never put two and two together for an actual use case. That was easy!

(assuming the stock fan is 60mm - the one that came with mine was 80 mm replacement with a soldered connector)

Also have the Noctual 60mm equivalent if I change my mind.
 
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I bought one of these for Tekken 1, 2, etc.

It says CN3 is for Right Channel Stereo ->

CN3 is for stereo right channel, it requires a JST NH Series 2 pin connector.

1. Speaker R +

2. Speaker R -

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My question is if Left Channel Stereo is coming off of JAMMA edge and Right Channel Stereo is coming off of this JNX adapter.....how the heck do I get that wired up to my speakers in like an Astro City or Astro City 2 cab? I definitely want stereo and not Mono sound for Tekken boards.

I wanted to use an amplifier that has RCA inputs but am confused on the whole line level, speaker level, and how to make that work.



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