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Mitsurugi-w

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These instructions apply to original pcbs as well. On original sound pcbs the RCA jacks are not installed but can be.


Pin-out of RCA Jacks
bat rca2.jpg


Power Pin-out for J1
bat power.jpg


The factory power connector had pins looped rather than individual wires for each pin:
power loop.jpg



Speaker Pinout
bat speaker.jpg



Connector used for speaker connector on pcb: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/molex/0026481055/26761
Suitable mating connector: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/molex/0009503051/26459
Pins : https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/molex/0008500106/26477



Connector used for power connector on pcb: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/molex/0026481075/26765
Suitable mating connector: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/molex/0009503071/26463
Pins: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/molex/0008500106/26477
 

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Are the connectors molex?

Looks like the post was updated. Thanks!
 
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Looks awesome thanks for the info. Whats included with the sound board?

I already made a fingerboard adapter to power the soundboard, just need to know what connector, pins, crimper to use to make my custom harness/adapter.
 
Looks awesome thanks for the info. Whats included with the sound board?

I already made a fingerboard adapter to power the soundboard, just need to know what connector, pins, crimper to use to make my custom harness/adapter.
Are you planning to sell a few of these @Derick2k ?
 
Ok, slight update, but Im getting close to ordering what should be the final version of this. I hate feature creep :D

2024-05-09_16-41-10.jpg


Still have to tweak the layout a bit, double-check spacing, and probably rename a couple of things but here we go:

  • We have 12v fan headers
  • power and speaker-level audio connectors that go to the Batman sound PCB
  • 3x4 2.54mm pin headers, these are used to switch jamma audio from the STV MB or the Batman sound PCB, unfortunately, I could not find a 4PDT switch to fit the specs needed (size, contact rating, etc.)
  • We have the button remap slider switches
  • Finally added an LED voltmeter (this is optional)

This will be a 4-layer PCB with 2oz copper and gold enig - it will probably be black color. I have spaced the jamma edge according to Hirose's dimensions.

Let me know what you guys think. Any changes or suggestions?
 
Quick question for you guys, will you all be using Everten's Line out/Kick harness addon?

Also, I need to remap P1 & P2 buttons 4 from the kick harness.

Do you guys want time to swap just button 4 to button 1

or remap all the buttons? meaning
From
1-2-3-4
to
4-2-3-1
or
2-3-4-1
 
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For me, that's a yes on Evertens board. I don't really have a preference on the button remapping.
 
yes on everten - maybe i missed the post on the remap - why do we need to remap the buttons?
 
yes on everten - maybe i missed the post on the remap - why do we need to remap the buttons?
On Batman Forever JAMMA button 1 is not used and the 3 buttons that the game DOES use are mapped to JAMMA buttons 2, 3, and 4, so you essentially have to shift them all over by 1 on the JAMMA edge.

It's documented on pages 23 and 24 of the manual: https://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-videogames/B/BatmanForever.man.pdf

I ran the game at a party last weekend and made a hand-soldered JAMMA pass-through to play the game that shifts the buttons over by 1 and provides power to the audio board.

I'm not really sure why the kick harness needs to be involved though.
 
I'm curious what game would need button 4 coming in from the kick harness as part of the remap
Long night ||

Was looking at the STV manual pinout lol

1715454740927.png


Still bizarre that they did this:
1715455172686.png


So the only thing to decide is:

From
A-B-C-D
to
D-B-C-A
or
B-C-D-A

Simplest would be to slide the D to the A
But I think it should be to move buttons over 1 spot so
B-C-D-A
 
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