What's new
For me the MS2931 is the best looking monitor I've ever seen with the least blooming and geometry issues. I think the Blast cabinet looks pretty cool and the I/O board makes it really easy to support a wide range of hardware options. I think the first time I saw one was in Dynamite Cop and I had to have one.

That said, I do wish it was built tougher and easier to service, like an Astro. The whole body warps, control panel feels flimsy, speaker grilles are easily damaged, back panel is too small to be useful, bezel pops out, marquee squeaks, speakers don't last, etc.
 
Hello, I am about to make my Blast City completely inside and outside like new. So how can I put these old dirty yellow bags back in ?! So today I was in an audio store and asked what it is and if they have something to replace. Answer: It is nothing more than insulation wool so that the sound goes where it should. Previously, such a thing was made of fiberglass today from polyester fibers of various thicknesses. So I bought 2 mats of it right away. I have these then cut to size and now everyting looks like new (well because it is :D)
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20221026_134636.jpg
    IMG_20221026_134636.jpg
    112.6 KB · Views: 164
  • IMG_20221026_134640_1.jpg
    IMG_20221026_134640_1.jpg
    97.9 KB · Views: 142
  • IMG_20221026_134654.jpg
    IMG_20221026_134654.jpg
    106.1 KB · Views: 147
I've been lurking this thread closely and just came to a decision... For those that bought the Aurasound speakers, what was the consensus for wiring them up? Series or Parallel?

Thank you @nem for the 3D models as well. This has become a cool refurb project for me to tackle.
 
  • Like
Reactions: nem
They're wired exactly like the originals.
Yes thanks for confirming. I just opened up the old case and saw they are each 4 ohms as well. Nice and easy except for what looks like a little dremel action
 
If you want the driver to slide in, there's a lip on the edge of the enclosure that you have to take off (check the first pic in my post). However, the plastic is quite thin and does have give, so I guess you could force the driver in. However, I only eyeballed it and was like, nope, not going to fit, and then hit it with the dremel.
Just catching up here and want to be clear… you dremeled about a mm off of the plastic enlosure and not the driver itself right?
 
From the enclosure, yes. You don't want to dremel through the driver.
 
Ok, does anyone have any tips for getting the enclosure BACK IN? I'm fighting the metal bracket and also having a tough time lining the screw hole up w the one in the bracket... there seems to be no wiggle room.
 
Ok, does anyone have any tips for getting the enclosure BACK IN? I'm fighting the metal bracket and also having a tough time lining the screw hole up w the one in the bracket... there seems to be no wiggle room.
How much bulge do you have from installing the speakers? Did you dremel enough material away? Not sure if you have the back shell of the cabinet off also but this makes like a lot easier. See my pics below for what I did based on advice here. Also I mistakenly put one of my speakers in upside down but I’m not sure whether tweeter was up top or down below. 😞
 
Last edited:
How much bulge do you have from installing the speakers? Did you dremel enough material away? Not sure if you have the back shell of the cabinet off also but this makes like a lot easier. See me pics below for what I did based on advice here. Also I mistakenly put one of my speakers in upside down but I’m not sure whether tweeter was up too or down below. 😞
I
How much bulge do you have from installing the speakers? Did you dremel enough material away? Not sure if you have the back shell of the cabinet off also but this makes like a lot easier. See me pics below for what I did based on advice here. Also I mistakenly put one of my speakers in upside down but I’m not sure whether tweeter was up too or down below. 😞
I have probably the same amount of bulge as you do. Dremeled about 1mm off each side and left as little material as I felt comfortable with.
 
Alright I was able to get them back in nicely by removing some of the nearby screws that connect the body together as I believe @nem mentioned before. Now I’m feeling lazy and don’t want to put the third hidden screws back. Better give a solid test before committing fully
 
Has anyone tried taking the speakers to a vintage speaker repair shop?

I'm sure if they're repairing speakers on vintage audio gear, that they should know what they're doing with the Blast.
 
Has anyone tried taking the speakers to a vintage speaker repair shop?

I'm sure if they're repairing speakers on vintage audio gear, that they should know what they're doing with the Blast.
There was a facebook post on a candy cab group a year or 2 ago where some fella had 3D printed a jig to repair the original surround, glue new membrane etc unfortunately he was unwilling to share the STL.
 
There was a facebook post on a candy cab group a year or 2 ago where some fella had 3D printed a jig to repair the original surround, glue new membrane etc unfortunately he was unwilling to share the STL.
I randomly took pics of that post.
16E209DF-A628-4298-AF9A-55C52506DAE9.jpeg
1DB57AF1-D6E0-43D6-BEA0-20BFCC0AC2D9.jpeg
FDB336EF-3810-4FB2-97C9-D23E267AB7F9.jpeg
 
Back
Top