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No that's not normal and it's like very obvious. I would suggest trying with a different A or C board.
Could also be a consequence of the digiAV board.
 
Could also be a consequence of the digiAV board.
While I love the idea of taking the digital signals directly from the board, I hate these "standalone" solutions.
Last I checked 5x mode on these could only produce a 1920x1080 image that is cropped (top and bottom parts of the screen).

This isn't even in line with the OSSC that can do 5x mode @ 1600x1200 cropping nothing.
OR the RetroTink Pro's 6x 1440p output (current king of scaling).

Nope I've said it before and I'll say it again, we should be seeking digital output solutions but NOT onboard scalers.
They are outdated as soon as you install 'em. :thumbdown:

Oh and for systems/consoles with cases... Yea cutting a case to install one of these should be a crime.
In another 20 years or so all we'll have left is shells with little HDMI sized holes.
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^ The reason they’re reversed have been addressed in some posts in the “Official”CPS-1 Thread.

FWIW, there is no universally right or wrong colour to use for each point, and future kits may even have different colored wires.

Users should explicitly follow the guide they’re using for the install be it the pdf, YouTube or otherwise. That’s the best way.
 
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It don't matter what color wire you use, however if you look at the solder points AND you look at the length of wires included its pretty clear which should go where.
ie Manual is correct, video is wrong (technically speaking nothing is wrong, but based on wire length).
 
fwiw the wire setup was a lot more obvious to me given the length differences than the C board battery removal requirement. In any case, it's good to have all of this spelled out clearly in the manual for people who arent doing this right now but maybe years later when it's no longer a fresh forum topic. And if it's followed the same way in a video guide, all the better.
 
I just added a notice onto the video indicating that I installed the wires backwards, and that owners should use the longer wire for Reset.
Maybe add some notes to the video. I think that can be done pretty easily, right?
 
Maybe add some notes to the video. I think that can be done pretty easily, right?

I added the notice to the top of the show notes, but I can't modify the video itself without reposting the video with a new URL and losing the existing comments and view count. YouTube used to allow you to add "pop up messages" to an existing video but they took that feature away a little while back.

This is what viewers will see underneath the video player now:

Screen Shot 2022-05-27 at 11.49.25 AM.png
 
Report!

I left my cps1 on for about 13 hours on my mini cute last night and things were good to go. Looks like whatever is up with my 12mhz A board was funky (even it plays all my other CPS1 B boards just fine) Strange that it plays my other 6 B boards just fine. Im going to let this board run with a dedicated B board to see if it locks up (cause that should be the same as the multi right? )

but my Final Fight A board seems to work without any issue and doesn't lock up, so i'll just use that =)
 
CPS1 hardware is flake city. I had an absolutely babied SF2:WW A-board that just randomly decided to cut off character's legs one day. Moved it to a different A-board and all was good.
 
I have mine prepped. Just looking for that qsound.bin file and I'll turn it on. Excited.
 

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CPS1 hardware is flake city. I had an absolutely babied SF2:WW A-board that just randomly decided to cut off character's legs one day. Moved it to a different A-board and all was good.
yeah, its always finicky, almost as flakey as the CPS3, which literally if you look at it funny will suicide... /looks at piles of dead original CPS3 security carts
 
Also it's kind of deceptive in the way it's flaky. I put Final Fight on that A-board and it's perfect. Have cleared it several times and never noticed a single problem. Kinda why I'm worried about my SF2HF Dash board for the multi. It's perfect on HF but who knows what the entire library will look like.
 
Well, some games exploit processor and ram more than others, number of characters on screen/ number of sprites etc can really push it, this old hardware is still good but is prompt to fail by parts, customs, etc and still work. Better to test this old A-boards with heavy games, cps1.5 library to begin with.
 
some games exploit processor and ram more than others, number of characters on screen/ number of sprites etc can really push it,
I also think this.
Early Dash games were only slightly more demanding than late 10mhz games.
1.5 games however really took full advantage of that aging A-board.
I suspect when one starts to die its most noticeable playing these (1.5 games).
 
I also think this.
Early Dash games were only slightly more demanding than late 10mhz games.
1.5 games however really took full advantage of that aging A-board.
I suspect when one starts to die its most noticeable playing these (1.5 games).
Yeah and they had games programmed in like a 7 year term same hardware before moving to cps2, at the end they really sucked all the juice from it
Better to have 2 or 3 A-boards just in case, aside from initial installation problems, I foresee most of the troubleshooting to be expected from this A-board inconsistencies
 
Anyone that has successfully downloaded the 3 regional CPS1 packs, please PM me. I am only able to retrieve the one larger pack.
 
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