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The Gelid is inaudible in my cab even on high speed setting. Really the speed controller is unnecessary as from low to high there is only a very tiny difference.
in your opinion is the gelid better for cab purposes?
 
No speed controller necessary. The Sunon is dead quiet as is, and lowering the voltage to slow it down is silly as then it wouldn't be moving any air rendering it pointless.
 
Yeah, but the Sunon is 1/3 that price, just as quiet and actually has greater airflow - meaning it will protect your hardware more than the Papst. :)
Do you have the sunon with a speed control?
sunon is the quiest fan i've seen (i have on on my IOboard for MiSTer and it's super quiet - you don't hear it)
 
Sunon has at least five quiet maglev fans in this size. So you guys might have different fans.

HA60151V4-1000U-A99, 21.46m3/h, 14.5dBA
MB60151V1-000U-A99, 35.49m3/h, 36dBA
ME60151V2-000U-A99, 37.23m3/h, 32.5dBA
MF60151V1-1000U-A99, 44.62m3/h, 34.2dBA
MF60151V2-1000U-A99, 38.53m3/h, 29.2dBA

The HA is probably inaudible even up close.
 
Anyone know where i can get a Papst 612-FL for the cps2 with the connector ready to go in the USA ??
 
Anyone know where i can get a Papst 612-FL for the cps2 with the connector ready to go in the USA ??
I dont think they come with a connector. Just cut the connector off the old fan and solder it to the papst.
Exactly, they come with a different connector so soldering is required.

What I did myself was desolder the complete wire directly from the old fans motor, lifted the sticker on the papst and soldered the ‘old’ wires directly to that motor.
So no cut wires etc ;)
 
Anyone know where i can get a Papst 612-FL for the cps2 with the connector ready to go in the USA ??
I dont think they come with a connector. Just cut the connector off the old fan and solder it to the papst.
Exactly, they come with a different connector so soldering is required.
What I did myself was desolder the complete wire directly from the old fans motor, lifted the sticker on the papst and soldered the ‘old’ wires directly to that motor.
So no cut wires etc ;)
makes sense thanks! , any USA websites i can order one from? :whistling:
 
Is this a reasonable price for that fan?, seems like $25 is alot for a fan?
 

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@yuro @Aurich

Question does it come with the connections already or soldering is required?
I honestly don't remember, I put it in a few years ago, but I know it was easy and painless whatever I did.
If I remember correctly, the new fan had 3 pins/wires, but the connector still fit the original male pins on the A board with no problem, and no modification. It's plug and play. You'll see when you get it.
 
Finally!!
 

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Yeah, i am sure I am going to catch some crap for this, but I really do not like the CPS2 case... I much prefer my PCB's be exposed... and the design of the A+B just makes things worse IMHO.

If I remove my PCB's and leave them exposed in a cabinet, do I even need to bother with cooling? Especially in a home arcade setting?
 
CPS1.5 added the case and cooling, so it was obviously a problem on CPS1, CPS2 expanded on that with a much bigger fan and a clearly engineered airflow system.

- CPS2 has a much lower failure rate than CPS1

- CPS2 is more powerful than CPS1 so will generate more heat

- CPS2 is a larger ROM board than CPS1

- CPS2 cabinets at least in the US mounted boards horizontally not vertically (so bending becomes a potential long term issue without the case because it's larger/heavier)

Yes you can run them exposed, and I have seen them for sale without shells, but I'd say you're going to significantly reduce the life if you're not providing adequate cooling/airflow.

There's a reason Capcom did it the way they did, for home use a quieter/less powerful fan is fine but no fan as far as I'm concerned isn't worth it
 
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