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Forgive me if this is the wrong place to post.

I've been meaning to learn how to program PICs and thought this would be a cool starting point since it is tested code and well documented flags. Since I saw a couple of people mention success with a PICKIT 2, I picked up the current model (4) and a few of the chips. First problem: MP-LAB does not accept *.bin files. If I knew what software created the bin, maybe I could back out the compiled *.hex binary?

Does anyone have advice? Thanks.
 
Hmm, maybe I can bait out some advice if I better define the question.

Several times the author, rtw, mentions posting a *.hex file. Several other people refer to a hex file. Later one person mentions having to convert the *.bin to a *.hex file. However, the hex file no longer seems to be posted, only the two *.bin files. Is there still a *.hex somewhere?

As for testing idc’s posted hex, MPLAB IPE reports: “Warning <filename> contains code that is located in addresses that do not exist on the PIC16F628A” I guess it is too large, or written for a different MCU.

Maybe if I knew what hardware and software used the *.bin I could just go and buy that as a starting point?

- rtw appears to use an unknown Elnec programmer and the PG4UW software. Very expensive, but I bet you get what you pay for.

- zeruel85 and Mrhide use dthe TL866II-Plus programmer and xgpro software? Software seems to have a flag inversion problem.

- anabelgator and D_N_G used the top3000 programmer and unknown software.

- Niko used the GQ4x4 programmer. There seemed to be a big/little endian problem in the software that required effort to work around.

- Tailsnic Retroworks had success with a TL866CS, which is no longer made.

- I was wrong. Finisterre never said he was successful with the pickit 2. He was pointing out support challenges with the original chips used by SEGA. I also see a top3000 in the background.

Any advice? Or, am I wrong, and this is a terrible place for a beginner to start?
 
Any advice? Or, am I wrong, and this is a terrible place for a beginner to start?
I use a TL866A with the MiniPro v6.85 software. I use the .bin files directly with the MiniPro software. I've never needed the .hex files you mention.

Device selection:
mini pro select device.png

configuration flags:
mini pro settings new.png
 
Ah, what the heck. The TL866II is cheap. I don't have all that much to lose.

the .hex is for the Microchip software. (pickit programmers)
 
Thank you both. That seems to be what I needed. MPLAB read the file, set the flags, recorded, and verified.
...
I can't test it. (Oh look, NETDIMM firmware version 3.13, not 3.17 !@#!). Oh well. That's a project for another day.

EDIT: I don't want to derail a thread focused on the zero key. I will post back after I have sorted my other problems out.
 

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Thank you both. That seems to be what I needed. MPLAB read the file, set the flags, recorded, and verified.
...
I can't test it. (Oh look, NETDIMM firmware version 3.13, not 3.17 !@#!). Oh well. That's a project for another day.
were are you located, there are a few people who can update the flash for you. (myself, mitsurugi-w , and i am sure others , you can if your ok with replaced tsop48. ) mitrurugi-w probably has the update gdrom which makes it 5000x easier.. ( I have to do flash replacement ) - he was offering free upgrades if you bought the cf kit from him.

 
Got it. I was trying to upload the wrong NETDIMM update ROM. The steps above absolutely create a valid zero key using the PicKit 4. Thanks everyone.
 
mitrurugi-w probably has the update gdrom which makes it 5000x easier..
Nope I don't have the Update GD-ROM but I can probably desolder and resolder the flash qicker than the update would take, tho.
 
it takes less than 30 seconds to desolder and resolder a tsop package including cleaning.
when i used to "repair" ;) cable boxes it took longer to get a reliable connection in the tsop socket adapter than to actually lift and re-solder the chip.
Those were the good old days, I also used to repair cable boxes along with sat cards, etc...Jerrold/Tocom boxes, etc....then moved onto digital boxes, cloning, etc...
 
I'm very new to this scene, so please excuse the terrible questions.

But can I use this chip to boot any other Naomi GD-Rom? I don't like the idea of swapping them out with how hard they fit, I would just rather swap the GD-Rom itself
 
an interesting option would be to fit a zif socket to the gd unit.
 
Because the discs are encrypted?

an interesting option would be to fit a zif socket to the gd unit.

Well, if we're talking of original key chips and discs, a ZIF socket isn't needed. Legit keys come in small plastic housings. They take like 5 seconds to pop off. No idea what issue @RadiantAnsel has with them. There's a small locking tab that you have to press and then you just pull the key off.
 
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