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Jamma Fingerboards

LOL, I guess I could have looked up at my own question months ago!

So, who can spare to mail a few my way?
 
Yah @Frank_fjs!! The adapter looks wonderful! Great for tinkering. Soon as it is available, I am going to have to redo my adapters!
 
EDIT, everytime I use one of these JAMMA Adapters, I am affixing a voltmeter. Woot!
 
Thanks @Frank_fjs, I will order a few of these to make adapters for my UVC/PS360 combo. I'll probably make them in purple.
 
acblunden2 said:
EDIT, everytime I use one of these JAMMA Adapters, I am affixing a voltmeter. Woot!
Click to expand...
I could add some mounting holes and power pads to accommodate this. You'd need to show me the exact voltmeter you plan on using so I can space the holes accurately.
 
Frank_fjs said:
I could add some mounting holes and power pads to accommodate this. You'd need to show me the exact voltmeter you plan on using so I can space the holes accurately.
Click to expand...
LoL. Now you tell me. I just ordered 30 of them =). I was planning on using double sided tape to affix the meter to the PCB. All good.

But if you want to add them, would be the same ones in your MiniGun BOM (less expensive ones).
 
Incidentally, I've included the PCB design files in the download if people want to make alterations.
 
Got notfication that the 30 JAMMA adapters I ordered are on the way from JLCPCB, yah! Will have 3 immediate applications to do/redo:
  1. Egret 2 JAMMA CPS1/2/3 Adapter
    • The current fingerboard I use is very narrow and the lead wires are scrunched which might break the solder joints over time
    • Replacing that fingerboard with Frank's broader JAMMA adapter will elimnate the possibility of solder joint breakage
    • Will also add voltmeters for +5vdc, maybe +12vdc and -5vdc for both functional and aesthetic purposes
  2. Martin Jones Sync Pulse Generator adapter
    • Will also add voltmeters for +5vdc, maybe +12vdc and -5vdc for both functional and aesthetic purposes
  3. @Segasonicfan Sync Cleaner Pro v1.0
    • Will also add voltmeters for +5vdc, maybe +12vdc and -5vdc for both functional and aesthetic purposes
Will also look at improving my test bench setup with the JAMMA Adapter and whatever other projects I can use them for. Pics then.
 
JAMMA_Adapter.jpg


Hi @Frank_fjs, I am thinking 2 rows of drill holes between the traces should be added in the area highlighted above. The purpose is to allow for easier re-routing of wires. Instead of routing wires all the way around the side of the adapter, wires can be routed through the drill holes. In doing so, I think one of the edge routing slots can be removed making the adapter a little thinner. This will allow the adapter to have a bolt pushed through the edge card without touching adapter. What do you think?

I any case, so far this is fantastic. This going to be a project for @Segasonicfan Sync Cleaner Pro v1.0. I will be adding +5vdc meters for this to complete the aesthetic. As for bridging the solder jumpers, I had a little trouble with getting the blobs to connect. They would always dissect on their own. Perhaps it is JLCPCB's fab of the boards; perhaps the solder pads are too small. Never ran into this problem jumpering CSP2 B-boards or Infinikeys. But I found a technique that worked and I'll pass it on to anyone:
  1. Apply iron to both solder pads at a time
  2. Add solder until a bridged blob forms
  3. Then the key is to lift the iron off the pad first
  4. Then in rapid succession, remove solder before solder solidifies
So a boom-boom 1-2 motion with lifting the iron and solder from the jumper pads is all that is needed to form a bridged solder blob. Pics when this is done.
 
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I like the idea of the drill holes. I'll see if I can add them without jeopardizing the trace work. Any suggestions for diameter? How large should the holes be to accommodate pushing wire through?

Re the solder jumpers, I can move them closer together perhaps, to make bridging easier.
 
What about a pin header? This would make rerouting even more convenient?!
 
Frank_fjs said:
I like the idea of the drill holes. I'll see if I can add them without jeopardizing the trace work. Any suggestions for diameter? How large should the holes be to accommodate pushing wire through?
Click to expand...
Just big enough without eating into the traces. Ideal diameter would be to accommodate this wire with a diameter of 0.0253". Oval holes would be best to allow for more than one wire in a single hole. Most applications will use kynar wire which a hole of this size will be overkill anyway.
Frank_fjs said:
Re the solder jumpers, I can move them closer together perhaps, to make bridging easier.
Click to expand...
Its fine. Might be my solder equipment or JLCPCB's fabrication.
 
Oh, with the drill holes in place, the routing slots towards the outer edge become less important. Removing one of the routing slots allows the adapter to be less wide. A user can then shove a bolt through the adapter and bolt it to the JAMMA harness so it doesn't come loose during PCB switching.

Here is a snap after I added the +5vdc meter. White to keep with Japanese wiring standards :)

JAMMA_Adapter_Meterside.jpg
 
Here is another project I am using the JAMMA Adapter for: JVS-to-JAMMA adapter.
  1. I'm taking +5vdc from the JVS PSU and feeding that into a Negatron to get -5vdc to meet JAMMA requirements
    • You will notice I drilled through the adapter at the key position so I could route a short bit of wire to run the -5vdc line
    • And of course JVS already has the requisite +5vcd and +12vdc
    • Will then add in a voltmeter for -5vdc (Blue), +5vdc (White), and +12vdc (red), matching Japanese wiring color standards
  2. 1P & 2P controls and button inputs willl each terminate to a 12-position AMP connector
  3. Edge connector will be set up like a Sega Astro harness with SW4 & SW5 coming off the edge connector
    • Will use the test points on the JAMMA adapter to wire up SW4, SW5, & SW6 to a CPS2 kick harness
  4. +/- audio will be terminated to a 2-position connector, then fed into a LOC before going into the stereo amp
  5. RGB, Vsync, and Vgnd will go into the high impedence connection on the monitor chassis with its own 6-position connector
  6. Coin counter will have a 2-position connector and will wye into the Sega Net City's coin counter
  7. Service, Test, Coin will teriminate to their own connections
I know all of these things can be done easily with a JAMMAfier. But the reason I fab a JAMMA loom is that I feel better video qualit is achieved routing video to the high impedence connection on the chassis instead of knocking down the signal to VGA levels. Plus zero lag > even the smallest fraction of lag.

IMG_1862.jpg
IMG_1861.jpg
 
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