Mahjong -> Jamma adapters (Interest check)

[andynumbers]

I took a look at a bunch of my boards from the early to mid 90s era. I compared each edge to a high-quality JAMMA adapter board that has correct 3.96mm spacing.

It seems that there are mixed results. I wondered at first if manufacturers switched to the 3.96mm pinout when 4mm edge connectors became obsolete, but then I noticed that some early boards were also using 3.96mm. I think at the end of the day, the mahjong pinout standard is a mess, and each individual PCB needs to be checked for edge connector pitch, and how sound is wired.

Here are my findings:
Seta: Always 4mm. Tested SSV mahjong adapter from Super Real Mahjong PIV, Super Real Mahjong PV, Aleck 64 mahjong adapter
Taito F2 Mahjong Quest: 4mm (Taito didn't make any other mahjong boards though.)
Video system: old boards are 4mm. New boards are 3.96mm. Old boards include Mahjong Daiyogen, Mahjong Fun Club and others on this generation. New boards include Final Romance 2 and 4.
Jaleco Mega System 32 mahjong adapter is 3.96mm
Capcom z80 hardware is 3.96mm (Mahjong Gakuen, Poker Ladies, Block Block)
Nichibutsu boards are 3.96mm (Tested Tokyo Gal Zukan)

Update: I own Taisen Hot Gimmick now and can confirm Psikyo boards are 3.96mm pitch.

Since it's about 50/50 with the pinouts, I think it would be worth creating a 4mm version of a JAMMA adapter...if 4mm edge connectors can still be sourced. But I don't think it would be a good idea to clean out Beep shop's only inventory of remaining 4mm edge connectors. At the end of the day, when you use an adapter, check to make sure the pins are lined up as best as possible. It is better to have the power pins making full contact while the signal pins can be left hanging off by the 1mm difference.

 

[Shinsengumi]

To clarify a bit how the panel wiring works, it requires making a separate cable to connect the panel to the cabinet wiring like this

This will repurpose p1 and p2 controls as Mahjong COM and KEY

Curious, does anyone have a pinout for the p1 and p2 controls as Mahjong COM and KEY via that 3x4 connector?

Thx!

 

[dos]

Huh, maybe this is why my Mahjong Sisters has funky color issues, gotta measure the pitch: https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/mahjong-sisters-bizarre-color-problem.21464/

E: Yeah it's definitely wider pitch. Gonna try ordering one of those edge connectors and building my own Pana harness for it.

 

[8bitforlife]

@buffi I am in need of this. I have a Taito Canary that's wired for mahjong specifically hot gimmick. Could I buy one of these please would help me out.

 

[buffi]

@buffi I am in need of this. I have a Taito Canary that's wired for mahjong specifically hot gimmick. Could I buy one of these please would help me out.

I think this is the opposite of what you want then. This adapter is for using mahjong games in Jamma cabs, not other way around.

 

[twistedsymphony]

That "W" connector is also used in the Taito Egret 29. the different sub-harnesses pop up on YAJ from time to time. I've got a few different Mahjong sub-harnesses in my collection that I was able to pick up there at a reasonable price. No extras for sale, sorry, but keep an eye out they do come up.

 

[buffi]

Btw if your cab is already wired for Hot Gimmick, why change it.

Its one of the better arcade games around

 

[8bitforlife]

@buffi because i dont know crap about mahjong

I am sorry I thought this was to convert mahjob harness to jamma

the pcb picture on op has mahjong to jamma

 

[Lemony Vengeance]

I have @8bitforlife sorted in the JAMMA harness department. Made one up for him.

 

[ack]

@buffi thanks for creating the adapter. I was in need of one for testing a mahjong board. I don't have a controller for the buttons, but the video/sound is working great.

If anyone in the USA is in need of one I have 10 pcbs and enough parts to fully assemble a few.

 

[andynumbers]

Would someone be willing to modify the PCB design to adapt to the Egret II pinout? It would be useful to me if I had the correct pinout for my cabs.

 

[froztbite]

Was directly inspired by @buffi design so I thought that this might be best place to post this but let me know if you want to keep this for the original adapter discussion only I can move this to own thread.

Finally got myself control panel to play some mahjong games. I don't have room to use a full size one so spent on and off during the year trying to find a suitable pcb or case to house a controller that would easily fit in your hands but couldn't find anything that would work for me. Started to learn Kicad for a different project a few months back and decided to try and make simple wiring for all the buttons on a pcb and the connectors to hook to @buffi design.

The first design was pretty simple and fit the task, but I'm not yet that good and still lose most matches. So the need to have easy way to put more credit from the control panel was born. The second version included all the extra buttons that the pinout for Mahjong revealed Coin, Test and Service. Finally I tried to squeeze the third and for now final design as small as possible but still leave room for button hats for more comfortable playing.

The additional coin, test and service buttons are optional with their own connector so you could omit them if using with @buffi original adapter or just wire them to the correct pin on the adapter edge connector. I did however make my own version with an additional connector on the adapter but I omited a lot of features like able to control from JAMMA inputs and the +5v/gnd connector.

The github repository has all the control panel versions and my version of the adapter. It should hold more pictures, documentation, kicad projects and gerber files but I post here a few of the main ones.
https://github.com/VeeKiraRay/mahjong_arcade___pcbs


Here is a size comparison picture with Hot Gimmick 3 and I included a commercially available panel for playing Mame as a comparison


Mahjong jamma adapter


All hooked up and ready to play.


For the buttons the first version used round button hats from a kit off Amazon like this for example
https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Tactile-Pressure-Momentary-Colourful-Arduino/dp/B09QM5VBTM/

For the latter versions I found really nice looking ones from aliexpress with a clear cover so I could put stickers to mark the buttons and not have worry about them coming off. The PCB also has markings for buttons but since with hats they letter ones tend be hard to see when looking at an angle.

12x12mm buttons for the bigger versions:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001625448326.html

6x6mm for the smaller version and for the additional buttons on the bigger versions.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002448121871.html

 

[buffi]

Very nice!

Cool that my stuff was helpful/inspiring. Your stuff came out great!

 

[Joko3]

@buffi thanks for creating the adapter. I was in need of one for testing a mahjong board. I don't have a controller for the buttons, but the video/sound is working great.

If anyone in the USA is in need of one I have 10 pcbs and enough parts to fully assemble a few.

If this offer is still valid I’d love to have an adapter that could work with Final Romance 2

 

[ack]

If this offer is still valid I’d love to have an adapter that could work with Final Romance 2

I have parts to make one with the board connector and that large switch. You would need to get your own male/female connectors and do your own wiring (if needed) for your game.

 

[kyletwentytwo]

Grabbed a second cheap panel. This one is wired with keys to p1 controls like naomi (and my adapter) and has com as top row of kick harness, which is a bit unusual sonce that typically has a pin dedicated to ground, but i guess this works too.
Should be quite compatible with my design though (just use external jst header and connect to kick harness for com)

V2 is done printing and is being shipped from China now

Sorry to reply to a super old post buffi, but I've got one of these Seimitsu Astro Mahjong panels and one of your adapters on the way. Is it as simple as plugging the panel into 1p via the 4x3 molex, and then into kick harness via the 5x2 molex, and then using your converter in the jamma harness with none of the headers necessary? You mentioned "just use external jst header" but I'm unsure which header I would need to populate/connect to for this setup. Thanks!

Edit: I think I misunderstood where the kick harness part went. So if I understand correctly now (lol) I'll just need to make a connector that goes between the kick harness connector off the jamma edge, and into the six pin com connector on the adapter.

 

[Mageta the Lion]

Could someone enlighten me regarding the Audio Switch on the Adapter? (Not sure I got it right and don’t wanna fry a Board)

1. You use it to switch between SPK- and Common Ground?
2. Can I damage the Pcb if it is set wrong? (aka Do I have to check the pinout for each Game or can I plug the game in and then simply switch if the Sound doesn't work right?)
3. For Taisen Hot Gimmick 1 (Psikyo) SPK- would be correct?
4. Do I leave the -5V bridge alone and only solder it in if I ever get a Uncommon Board from which I can't get sound? (Would the -5v be a Danger to the Boards that don’t use it?)

Thanks in advance

 

[buffi]

1. You use it to switch between SPK- and Common Ground?
2. Can I damage the Pcb if it is set wrong? (aka Do I have to check the pinout for each Game or can I plug the game in and then simply switch if the Sound doesn't work right?)
3. For Taisen Hot Gimmick 1 (Psikyo) SPK- would be correct?
4. Do I leave the -5V bridge alone and only solder it in if I ever get a Uncommon Board from which I can't get sound? (Would the -5v be a Danger to the Boards that don’t use it?)

1. Yes, I wrote up a short description of it here: http://arcademahjong.com/#audio-and-video
2. Yes, for some games using GND can damage the PCB. The Taisen Hot Gimmick games are among these. It will put a lot of load on the sound AMP. Most games can use GND. It should always be safe to use SPK-, so you can try that first and use GND if it wont work (will be pretty common)
3. Yes
4. I'd leave it alone until you know you need it. Some games have weird 12v/-5v pinout so it could in theory be a problem maybe. -5V is almost never needed.