Naomi 2 HDMI

[9999 Damage]

Dan confirmed that it's due to Wi-Fi disconnects "or no maple bus controller is connected," and said they'll create an option not to display that message. Of course, there will still need to be a way to invoke the setup wizard if it disconnects, and hopefully it won't always reset Wi-Fi settings every time it loses a connection.

Fixed. Firmware 2.1.45 addresses this. It's in the unstable/testing channels, but you can also install it manually through the web GUI. I installed it and can confirm I'm not getting that damn Wi-Fi wizard pop-up anymore. Of course, now I can neither find the setup wizard SSID from my phone, nor see the DCDigital attached to my LAN from the access point, so hopefully it will reconnect to my LAN when I get it out of the Vewlix Faraday cage.

I was surprised to see so much dithering now that I have a crystal-clear display. At first, I thought something was wrong, like low color depth or high sharpness, but I can see with a Google search that a lot of people have this shock when they first see a Dreamcast/Naomi shown clearly on a flat panel.

 

[XtraSmiley]

That's interesting! Interesting look. How is it with scan lines?

 

[9999 Damage]

That's interesting! Interesting look. How is it with scan lines?

To get the DCDigital on Wi-Fi so I can do settings, I basically have to take it out of the cab, usually in a room that has a test bench setup. So it hasn't really lent itself to experimentation.

I can't be the only one whose DCDigital has poor signal strength. A steel cab is basically a Faraday cage. I'd be willing to poke an antenna out of a Vewlix aux panel button hole if it were an option.

 

[XtraSmiley]

To get the DCDigital on Wi-Fi so I can do settings, I basically have to take it out of the cab, usually in a room that has a test bench setup. So it hasn't really lent itself to experimentation.

I can't be the only one whose DCDigital has poor signal strength. A steel cab is basically a Faraday cage. I'd be willing to poke an antenna out of a Vewlix aux panel button hole if it were an option.

Yeah for sure, no rush but next time you do take it out...

 

[mathewbeall]

That's interesting! Interesting look. How is it with scan lines?

I tested mine the other day on an LG oled - scan lines, coupled with HDR looks just stunning. Hard to get a good picture to show how good it looks though.

 

[9999 Damage]

That's interesting! Interesting look. How is it with scan lines?

I tested mine the other day on an LG oled - scan lines, coupled with HDR looks just stunning. Hard to get a good picture to show how good it looks though.

Okay, I give in. You guys are right. The scanlines look great. When I used scanlines on a 65" 4K OLED on the other side of my living room, I thought they were just nostalgic hoo-ha. But when I'm using a 32" LCD two feet away from my face, they make a big difference. They mitigate dithering really well, and they make the 240p pixel art look less like Perler beads.

 

[XtraSmiley]

Okay, I give in. You guys are right. The scanlines look great. When I used scanlines on a 65" 4K OLED on the other side of my living room, I thought they were just nostalgic hoo-ha. But when I'm using a 32" LCD two feet away from my face, they make a big difference. They mitigate dithering really well, and they make the 240p pixel art look less like Perler beads.

Wow, that does look fantastic! Thanks for posting.

 

[Koolhass]

Naomi 1 install on a dedicated marvel 2 big blue for my friend's arcade in Brooklyn.
https://twitter.com/ArcadeBrooklyn?t=xsTU6IkaSICn3i_H8v8dug&s=09

Hello Cruzlink2!

I noticed that you installed a DC Digital in a board that's identical to mine. It's different to he Naomi 1 that appears in official instructions! Please, just to be sure, let me know if what i need to do is:

1. Remove C111 and C112 capacitors.
2. Connect flex to 3.3V and 5V pads.
3. Solder C112 capacitor (22 16k) to the negative pad of its original position and positive pad of C111 (SMD electrolytic) capacitor.
4. The C111 capacitor is permanently removed.
5. Protect pads with Kapton tape to avoid contact with flex
6. Follow original instructions to connect B, D, C and R pads with hookup wire in board.

Thanks a lot!

 

[cruzlink2]

Hello Cruzlink2!

I noticed that you installed a DC Digital in a board that's identical to mine. It's different to he Naomi 1 that appears in official instructions! Please, just to be sure, let me know if what i need to do is:

1. Remove C111 and C112 capacitors.
2. Connect flex to 3.3V and 5V pads.
3. Solder C112 capacitor (22 16k) to the negative pad of its original position and positive pad of C111 (SMD electrolytic) capacitor.
4. The C111 capacitor is permanently removed.
5. Protect pads with Kapton tape to avoid contact with flex
6. Follow original instructions to connect B, D, C and R pads with hookup wire in board.

Thanks a lot!

Gonna post some pictures and hopefully that will help ya.

 

[VodkaGobalsky]

Hi, is there any plans on updating the DCDigital firmware so that the menu can manually disabled when no wifi is detected? The issue almost caused our stream to be a blowup at Fanime. Had to use a phone for a mobile hotspot and it had to be android, iPhone didn't even work! For running events, there's no guarantee there will be wifi for it to talk to and we need the menu to go away for the stream.

 

[S30ztt]

Hi, is there any plans on updating the DCDigital firmware so that the menu can manually disabled when no wifi is detected? The issue almost caused our stream to be a blowup at Fanime. Had to use a phone for a mobile hotspot and it had to be android, iPhone didn't even work! For running events, there's no guarantee there will be wifi for it to talk to and we need the menu to go away for the stream.

Also having the same issue after current update. Ran fine for about 1.5 hours and then I could not get rid of the menu after multiple wifi setups.

 

[9999 Damage]

Hi, is there any plans on updating the DCDigital firmware so that the menu can manually disabled when no wifi is detected? The issue almost caused our stream to be a blowup at Fanime. Had to use a phone for a mobile hotspot and it had to be android, iPhone didn't even work! For running events, there's no guarantee there will be wifi for it to talk to and we need the menu to go away for the stream.

Also having the same issue after current update. Ran fine for about 1.5 hours and then I could not get rid of the menu after multiple wifi setups.

Install fw 2.1.45 (currently marked unstable/testing), then the pop-up shouldn't appear once you set up Wi-Fi once:

Fixed. Firmware 2.1.45 addresses this. It's in the unstable/testing channels, but you can also install it manually through the web GUI. I installed it and can confirm I'm not getting that damn Wi-Fi wizard pop-up anymore. Of course, now I can neither find the setup wizard SSID from my phone, nor see the DCDigital attached to my LAN from the access point, so hopefully it will reconnect to my LAN when I get it out of the Vewlix Faraday cage.

 

[S30ztt]

Install fw 2.1.45 (currently marked unstable/testing), then the pop-up shouldn't appear once you set up Wi-Fi once:

Thanks, I didn't realize it was in the testing channel.

 

[VodkaGobalsky]

Install fw 2.1.45 (currently marked unstable/testing), then the pop-up shouldn't appear once you set up Wi-Fi once:

I forgot to get back to this. How would I get the wifi menu back if I actually do want reset it? Also, I haven't updated the firmware yet, how do I do it. Do I use DCDigital.local on my network when it's booted up?

 

[9999 Damage]

I forgot to get back to this. How would I get the wifi menu back if I actually do want reset it? Also, I haven't updated the firmware yet, how do I do it. Do I use DCDigital.local on my network when it's booted up?

How to get the Wi-Fi menu back if you want to reset it: If you still have the Wi-Fi credentials, you can reset it from the admin GUI. Otherwise, I’m not sure. Supposedly DCDigital also supports a CEC TV remote to control the OSD.

How to update firmware: Use the web GUI. DCDigital.local is the default hostname, but sometimes my laptop couldn’t find it for some reason, so I looked up the DCDigital’s IP address in my Wi-Fi router’s admin page. IIRC its device name appeared in the routing table as ESPRESSIF or something like that. Then once I had the IP address, I could just put it in my laptop’s browser address bar, e.g. <http://192.168.1.54>, assuming both devices were on the same LAN subnet.

FWIW, I started putting a PC in the same Vewlix, and its Wi-Fi can connect to my network just fine. So the Vewlix is clearly not a Faraday cage, and the DCDigital’s Wi-Fi antenna is just really terrible.

 

[VodkaGobalsky]

It’s not an issue for me at home. Only had issues at the San Jose convention center. I think it was a combination of all 3. Bad antenna, inside blast city, and WiFi signal was weak in general. Yeah I just want to make sure I don’t get into a state where I can’t reset the WiFi on it. Like if I have to replace my router one day and then I’m stuck.

 

[9999 Damage]

Yeah I just want to make sure I don’t get into a state where I can’t reset the WiFi on it. Like if I have to replace my router one day and then I’m stuck.

TBF, there may be a way to reset Wi-Fi settings without Wi-Fi connectivity, but I don’t know what it is.

Getting a new router should be fine as long as all the key settings remain the same (SSID, password, gateway, subnet, auth type). And in a pinch, you can always get a cheap router (e.g. run OpenWRT on a Raspberry Pi) that has the old network settings, and connect it to your new router over Ethernet.

 

[VodkaGobalsky]

Ah crap, I don't remember what I set the web user name and password to. What is the default username and password? Maybe I didn't set anything.

 

[mathewbeall]

According to the docs:

Configure the wifi for your network and setup a username/password for the dcdigital. Once connected you can access the Web-UI through http://dcdigital.local/ or http://IP-ADDR/

When you first set it up, you configure this. I don't think there is a default username/password.

You CAN factory reset it - I did this on mine.

https://docs.pixelfx.co/FX-Framework-Rescue_System.html

 

[VodkaGobalsky]

I had to log into a different WiFi network and just reset the password there. I hope it’s universal.