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"Open" Jumpers Still Shorted?--SOLVED (post 5)

gusmoney

gusmoney

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I have been having issues with my CPS2 install.

Mainly, a red screen on boot with all roms except Progear which has garbled graphics.

Started the diagnosis process with the simplest first and messed (on my third which is recommended by another sucessful player on these forums) around with the SD card. Same results as above.

I then moved on to uninstalling the kit and re-seating everything. Same results as above.

Currently, I am testing the jumpers and have found two (J10 and J12) that should be open (and by all appearances are), however, the multi-meter reports them as shorted. I have tried everything I can think of short of maybe cutting the traces between the pads to get these jumpers open. I am using a solder sucker to try and clean things up and am wondering if maybe that tool is not precise enough for the smaller amounts of solder possibly left behind? Today I cleaned the area with alcohol to try and clean any flux that might be creating havoc and still no results.

Does anyone have any insight?
 
after you remove the solder using the sucler you need to take a hobby knife and cut the area between the two pads of the jumper. You shouldn't be getting a red screen though.

Try shorting EXC5 near where the battery was. Just touch all three legs together from the underside using a screwdriver.

Are you using the Team Avalaunch roms available for download in the other threads here?
 
Thank you for the feedback Mits.

I will try shorting EXC5 again (made some half-harted attempts previously.)

I am using the posted Team Avalaunch roms exclusively, yes.
 
Are you formatting the card before you transfer the game files over? What kind of card are you using? Is the interconnect pcb on in the correct direction?
 
Thanks to your advice, I resolved the issue with the jumpers. Tried shorting EXC5 again with the method you proposed. Reinstalled the kit and have the lingering red screen and broken Progear graphics.

Here are some images of the screens along with the orientation (correct, I think) of my interconnect and SD Card (SanDisk Ultra 8GB Class 10 UHS-I MicroSDHC).

http://imgur.com/a/UYjjA
 
Try using a 4gb or smaller card. Also, it looks like you may have bridged two pins on the ARM processor when you added your reset cable.
 
No ARM chips were harmed in the making of this mod.


Before I purchase another, any recommendations on 4gb cards that have worked for others?
 
Removed the EXC5 tonight and my CPS2 kit works. Still have some lingering issues (reset doesn't want to work and I have some crackling sound) but I can play games now.
 
Take a close-up pic of the area surrounding where you soldered your reset wire. And also where you connected it on the pcb.
 
gusmoney said:
Removed the EXC5 tonight and my CPS2 kit works. Still have some lingering issues (reset doesn't want to work and I have some crackling sound) but I can play games now.
Click to expand...
Nice, I removed EXC1 and EXC5 from my CPS2 boards to prevent them from resuiciding. Seemed to happen with the multi much more than with normal boards. Haven't had any issues since.
 
I got the idea from reading one of your posts, so I owe you a thanks kuze!
 
No problem, glad it helped you out! make sure you have a solid connection on the board, it looks like it could be a cold joint.
Also I didn't have any luck with that side connector and had to do the original point at the bottom of the b board to get reset working.

You're on the updated firmware too right?
 
kuze said:
No problem, glad it helped you out! make sure you have a solid connection on the board, it looks like it could be a cold joint.
Also I didn't have any luck with that side connector and had to do the original point at the bottom of the b board to get reset working.

You're on the updated firmware too right?
Click to expand...
I am curious if there is a certain board/revision/game that doesn't want to play nice with this kit in general (and we both have it) in terms of persistent security keys, reset, etc. Some have described it as a drop in solution whereas others have numerous issues.

As far as firmware, I bought my kit from Paradise in early January and don't have the required board to upgrade the firmware that was just released.
 
well if you just got it from Paradise Arcade then I'd imagine it already has the auto reset firmware.
 
You have the reset connected to the wrong pin. Move it to the top pin. The top is the B row and the bottom is the A row.

The new firmware is only to try to add more sd card functionality. It isn't a necessary update.
 
Yeah, for the reset pin i ended up using another one of the CPS2/3 kick harness compatible connectors I had bought when I was creating my own kick harness a while back. The spacing of the pins was exactly the same as the connector on the CPS2 board, so I crimped on the proper "contact" and inserted it into the proper spot on the connector. Having that large plastic housing helps keep everything solid and stable in there.
 
Audio issued sorted tonight and my LCD board 3D printed case by @ChocolateApple arrived today! Grateful to many for their input, @Mitsurugi-w, @kuze, et al. CPS2 multi is fully functional. Now I just need a multi sticker for my case and a fan replacement (ugh.)
 
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