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I don't have that monitor. Arcade Parts and Repair is a good resource for US domestic arcade monitors. But that is it.

Get into Japanese monitors and there are tons of mistakes across the board made in those cap kits. Better to have spent the time with two different color markers and done this yourself. Mark top of cap can RED for the one you are currently itemizing for replacement, log the value in a spreadsheet, validate once more the value is correct, and then blacken the top of he cap radial can once you have validated the value is correct. Get a parts order from Digikey/Mouser going.

It is worth doing this painstaking effort than to get burned with the wrong cap kit and try to get your monitor going in the aftermath like you are now. How do you think these list posted by community members got started in the first place?
 
I don't have that monitor. Arcade Parts and Repair is a good resource for US domestic arcade monitors. But that is it.

Get into Japanese monitors and there are tons of mistakes across the board made in those cap kits. Better to have spent the time with two different color markers and done this yourself. Mark top of cap can RED for the one you are currently itemizing for replacement, log the value in a spreadsheet, validate once more the value is correct, and then blacken the top of he cap radial can once you have validated the value is correct. Get a parts order from Digikey/Mouser going.

It is worth doing this painstaking effort than to get burned with the wrong cap kit and try to get your monitor going in the aftermath like you are now. How do you think these list posted by community members got started in the first place?
I realize this now. I've only recapped some PCBs in the past and I should not have been lazy about it as the headache now is a bit much. Thanks for the tips.

If anyone has the proper capacitor values for the entire chassis, please let me know as it appears it was posted at one time and now the link is ded. I am starting with help from @Anselmo who was nice enough to take some photos of what is supposedly different and will post the correct cap list once I solve it.

Moral of the story - check every single value twice before you swap and make your own list.
 
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Recapped a few of these the other day. Quite a few caps had started leaking. One actually broke off when I pulled on it leaving a leg behind. So if you have one these in original state, I suggest putting some new caps on it.

Anyway,


400-5081, 400-5149 & 400-5198 (same PSUs basically, components just differently laid out and a different set of connectors)

Input: 90-138VAC
Output: +5V 7A, +12V 1.5A, -5V 0.1A

aero_city_psus.jpg

(400-5081 on top, 400-5149 / 400-5198 at bottom)


Code:
Capacitor     Diameter  Qty  Location

0.47uF 50V    5mm       1    C11
3.3uF 50V     5mm       1    C25
47uF 25V      7mm       1    C24
330uF 200V    25mm      1    C5
470uF 16V     10mm      1    C22
1000uF 35V    16mm      2    C20, C21
4700uF 10V    16mm      4    C12, C13, C14, C15
Thank you , @nem . I reccaped and now all are perfect in using this (400-5198-01X psu) with Jamma Expander (there was some troubles when i used with old caps)

View: https://youtube.com/shorts/h_yCXbK2VDM?feature=share

Thanks @Nodoka75

There's several ways to generate negative voltage, so you can't say "Just buy xx" without detailing the PSU you're using. ;)

During recapping on a New Astro City, 400-5198CE-01Z power supply, I discovered that the regulator of the -5V rail was blown, so I replaced it.
Ratings of the PSU are
+5V 7A
+12V 1,5A
-5V 0,1A, which is the Amp rating of the voltage regulator, a 78L05 in TO-92 package (same package like lots of transistors, but package is not linked to one kind of components).


regula10.jpg


On the NAC PSU I worked on, -5V is generated by a part of the transformer, then regulated by the 78L05. Yes, it is a positive voltage regulator but the ground point used is different than the other power rails. Since it's a linear regulator you may use a load to ensure correct measurements.

1C6B4620-A50D-46F9-B885-C6F423723E50.jpeg

E1AF3AB2-9BA0-4AA5-B159-DBBD4208FDF1.jpeg

56017FC2-FDCF-46FE-A4F3-30A4345CBE07.jpeg

1E4788F7-6DF9-402B-AD9F-424297CF9477.jpeg
 
Now that I see these Nichicon, I've been also using united chemicon. I've read these are better than rubicon.
 
I just want to point out a couple of issues.
The IREM M92 caps list has the right cap values. However, the original caps are rated 105C, the ones listed there are just 85C. I made the mistake of ordering them and not checking the temperature rating. I don't think anybody would like to replace 105C caps on their Undercover Cops with 85C rated ones. Recommended caps should match the original temperature specs or better, not worst.
Some Sega System 16B boards have 220uF 16v (instead 470uF 16v) capacitors on the corners of the ROM board.
 
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I just want to point out a couple of issues.
The IREM M92 caps list has the right cap values. However, the original caps are rated 105C, the ones listed there are just 85C. I made the mistake of ordering them and not checking the temperature rating. I don't think anybody would like to replace 105C caps on their Undercover Cops with 85C rated ones. Recommended caps should match the original temperature specs or better, not worst.
Some Sega System 16B boards have 220uF 16v (instead 470uF 16v) capacitors on the corners of the ROM board.

If you can share the correct part numbers for the caps then I'll update the M92 and System 16B spreadsheets.
 
i mentioned also :
"M92 Major Title 2 Reccaped with Panasonic & Nichicon capacitors rated 85° (on the motherboard Elna's are on 105°)"


otherwise what can happen ? personally, i reccaped m92 with that caps and the game is ok .

before :
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=swrSoT-YkB0


after :
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0YwiJNOyJbk&t=0s
As long as the caps are good quality (Nichicom, United Chemicom, Wurth, Panasonic) and the lifespan is quite decent, temp shouldn't be an issue (unless we are talking about chasis and PSUs).
On a side note, I use Elna for Audio circuits.
 
If you can share the correct part numbers for the caps then I'll update the M92 and System 16B spreadsheets.
I haven't purchased 105C capacitors for the M92 yet. looking into it atm. For the Sega System 16B I'll check when I get home.
I don't disagree about the 85C caps working on M92 PCBs but would prefer to stick to the original specs and install 105C ones.
 
i mentioned also :
"M92 Major Title 2 Reccaped with Panasonic & Nichicon capacitors rated 85° (on the motherboard Elna's are on 105°)"


otherwise what can happen ? personally, i reccaped m92 with that caps and the game is ok .

before :
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=swrSoT-YkB0


after :
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0YwiJNOyJbk&t=0s
There is no mention about the temperature here (or at least I didn't see it):
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1fODPSQ1OUG7Tr4lBRVr-0SkVZK3bZ0y9cHSEIpZK5sk/edit#gid=0

It's ok. Some people care and others don't, I get it. In my case, if I'm going to recap these M92 boards once in a lifetime I would like to stick to the original specs, that's all. I'm pretty sure plenty of other people would also like to match the specs of the original capacitors.
 
I have compiled lists for two other monitor chassis:

Nanao MS-2934
Capacitor
Diameter
Qty
Location
1uF 50V​
5mm​
1​
C102​
2.2uF 50V​
5mm​
3​
C211, C212, C213​
10uF 50V​
5mm​
4​
C455, C456, C457, C956​
10uF 250V​
10mm​
1​
C322​
22uF 50V​
5mm​
4​
C107, C222, C458, C459​
47uF 16V​
5mm​
5​
C201, C202, C203, C220, C957​
47uF 250V​
13mm​
2​
C512, C952​
100uF 16V​
5mm​
2​
C221, C960​
100uF 35V​
6mm​
4​
C407, C408, C409, C503​
470uF 16V​
8mm​
1​
C402​
470uF 25V​
10mm​
1​
C971​
470uF 250V​
25mm​
1​
C951​
680uF 10V​
8mm​
1​
C955​
680uF 35V​
10mm​
2​
C953, C954​
1000uF 35V​
13mm​
1​
C406​
1200uF 200V​
35mm​
1​
C905​

Sanwa 29E31S
Capacitor
Diameter
Qty
Location
0.47uF 50V​
5mm​
1​
C103​
1uF 50V​
5mm​
7​
C102, C105, C309, C315, C405, C408, C474​
1uF 100V​
5mm​
1​
C822​
2.2uF 50V​
5mm​
1​
C104​
4.7uF 50V​
5mm​
1​
C101​
4.7uF 100V​
5mm​
1​
C423​
10uF 16V​
5mm​
1​
C839​
10uF 25V​
5mm​
1​
C4A7​
10uF 50V​
5mm​
7​
C328, C441, C446, C447, C452, C481, C852​
10uF 50V Bipolar​
7mm​
1​
C456​
22uf 25V​
5mm​
1​
C4A6​
33uF 50V​
5mm​
1​
C439​
33uF 50V Bipolar​
8mm​
1​
C437​
33uF 250V​
13mm​
2​
C426, C831​
47uF 25V​
5mm​
1​
C107​
47uF 50V​
6mm​
2​
C421, C471​
47uF 250V​
13mm​
1​
C107​
100uF 10V​
5mm​
1​
C310​
100uF 16V​
5mm​
2​
C840, C851​
100uF 25V​
7mm​
2​
C306, C429​
100uF 35V​
6mm​
1​
C320​
100uF 160V​
16mm​
1​
C833​
220uF 25V​
8mm​
1​
C305​
220uF 35V​
8mm​
1​
C313​
220uF 50V​
10mm​
1​
C821​
330uF 35V​
10mm​
1​
C427​
470uF 25V​
10mm​
3​
C317, C409, C438​
1000uF 35V​
13mm​
1​
C835​
1000uF 50V​
13mm​
1​
C834​
2200uF 16V​
16mm​
1​
C836​
3300uF 35V​
16mm​
1​
C314​
 
Hello,

By any chance, does anybody has at hand the cap list for a nanao ms-2932. I don't want to buy a premade kit online.

Thanks!
 
That cap list is the same for all the MS9-29 series chassis boards. If you look in the NOTES column you'll see that some of the models don't use some of the caps - just skip any ones that aren't already populated on your board.
 
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