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Retro Scaler A1

invzim said:
B button doesn't do much for now, the idea is/was to have an on-screen-display, but decided current firmware was useful enough for enough people to release the scaler.
Click to expand...
Awesome, the future is bright for this little scaler, its such a neat device !! As I am sure you know the OSSC only just started having an OSD just now, in the latest firmware.

Any chance of the following
- optional 5v output on pin9 of VGA on output side (I use this to power devices such as RGBHV to YUV device)
- YUV/Component output in the future ?


invzim said:
IF your consoles are modded 'standard', you should be able to just set rgb=75-ohm and sync=scart and not use any other device in front.
Click to expand...
thankyou - sorry I didnt notice my questions were answered in your connect-a-source page. I need things to stand out for me to take them in at first.
I will try those settings.
 
evilsim said:
Any chance of the following
- optional 5v output on pin9 of VGA on output side (I use this to power devices such as RGBHV to YUV device)
- YUV/Component output in the future ?
Click to expand...
IMG_1812.JPG
YUV/Component no - don't think so, not sure it's even possible with the hardware.
I decided against 5V on pin9 to avoid potential problems like pin 9 being shorted to GND on output, excessive power draw etc.

The PCB is acrylic "sandwichable", I even had acrylic made up for it but decided the aluminium enclosure looked way more pro. There is a footprint for JST-XH 2 pin, that can source (or feed the scaler) 5V.
 
invzim said:
I decided against 5V on pin9 to avoid potential problems like pin 9 being shorted to GND on output, excessive power draw etc.
Click to expand...
You could probably put it on a jumper, heck even a solder jumper disconnected by default.

You're right that, at least in a Net City you definitely want pin 9 disconnected, but I can tell you for other arcade setups I've had to add 5V to pin 9 to get things working.
 
I may do something like that if there is another production run.

Request to everybody:
If you use it with stuff not listed here https://irkenlabs.com/retro-scaler-a1/tested-sources , and would like to have it added - please drop me a line. No need for cartridge based games, CPS2 is CPS2, MVS is mvs etc, but CPS3 is e.g. not on the list yet.

Also, if anyone has a fancy camera and manages to get a nice CRT picture I would love to use it - I subjectively feel the pictures I've managed to take doesn't do the image quality justice.
 
At least to save you sanity and to make the list useful with consoles and how wild the modding scene has become it'd be worthwhile to note any and all modifications that were done. Tons of people are drunk on csync memes and spending weekends rewiring the same damn rgb circuits for lpf nonsense. That's why on that gallery I provided I gave every mod that was used and noted csync when it was in play.

That said so far tested and working:
Apple IIGS via Vanilla Gear VGA adapter (Composite video > HVSYNC converter device thing) - https://www.reactivemicro.com/product/apple-iigs-vga-adapter-with-enclosure-from-manila-gear/
AV Famicom with NESRGB, csync and OEM cables
Game Gear w/ McWill VGA mod - CSYNC out

And up for testing when I have free time again:
Mega Drive VA0, Genesis VA6, US 32x, Mega Jet - all composite video for sync
Duo R - older RGB mod, no LPF and composite video for sync
Super Grafx - SSD3
Saturn - stock cable composite video for sync
Jaguar - stock cable composite video for sync
consolized MVS - Omega unsure what kind of sync they used
Playstation 1 SCPH-1001 - stock
Playstaiton 2 V6 - stock
Apple Pippin (VGA 31khz)
Philips CDi 220 - stock EU scart plug, resistor swapped for 60hz

Known problems I haven't bothered to investigate past knowing there's a problem: Sony MSX2+ F1XV
 
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I'm starting to think my sync issues are all revolving around composite video as sync. I got this really stupid Genesis 3 device that I'm in the process of returning. Looking over the board like MSX2 it too uses composite video as sync and I was having the same drop-out issues. Unfortunately this one won't be able to be kept around as I'm returning it though.

Will that button trick you told me about be useful to see if this is the case? If so I'll do it quick before I send it back. I can also look around and see if I can find a LM1881 to throw into my scart cable that might fix the signal enough.
 
sammargh said:
I'm starting to think my sync issues are all revolving around composite video as sync. I got this really stupid Genesis 3 device that I'm in the process of returning. Looking over the board like MSX2 it too uses composite video as sync and I was having the same drop-out issues. Unfortunately this one won't be able to be kept around as I'm returning it though.

Will that button trick you told me about be useful to see if this is the case? If so I'll do it quick before I send it back. I can also look around and see if I can find a LM1881 to throw into my scart cable that might fix the signal enough.
Click to expand...
If you're a little brave and have it available, you could try to run a 75-ohm resistor from composite video to gnd. The scaler has a footprint for terminating the scart sync line, but I didn't populate it as it made me unable to sync with dreamcast.
 
Got mine in and did some preliminary testing. Everything looks fantastic from what I've seen already. My configuration with this device includes a gscart switch with a VGA style connector for output and VGA CRT monitor. Haven't tested everything I have yet set up for RGB but that will happen soon. So far the only console that hasn't been listed on the website which I can confirm works well is the original Xbox.

Very happy with the results so far and looking forward to further development efforts.
 
First, I’m looking forward to getting a Jammafier when they’re back in stock. It will really make my Naomi Universal complete. In the meantime, I’ve been running my boards through the scaler via my HAS. The supergun’s HD15 rgb out and 75ohm/ttl switch made things easier.

I initially had an issue with CPS2 (XvSF) where little to no Blue was displayed. The firmware update fixed this. It’s displaying a nice, colorful picture now.

Taito F3 (Bust a Move) looks good. CPS1 (SF2HF) is real nice, also CPS3 (3rdStrike). Sega STV (Shienryu) looks gorgeous.

Unfortunately, I’m trying to figure out a brightness issue with my MVS MV1FS (Metal Slug). Even with my NUC CRT monitor and HAS brightness maxed out, I feel like the shadow detail is crushed. It normally looks very vibrant on my PVM through the HAS without maxing the brightness. I should spend some more time troubleshooting.
 
i used a jamma extender, took out the RGBS wires and ran them into a betsubetsu (basically the same video circuit as the minigun supergun), then from there into a LM1881/DB15 syncbooster (with 75ohm to gnd on output) and into the Retro Scaler A1. I found some (horizontal wavyness, very little but noticeable) interference being due to the USB power for the scaler, so I am now powering the scaler from the jamma 5v/gnd, which cleaned up a lot of the interference, but there is still a tiny bit I can notice. using 75-ohm and TTL settings, very impressed with the output however. It sadly doesnt make me any better at SF2X tho :P

Why I would want to use 480p when playing CPS2 ? Just for testing of this scaler, I prefer scanlines and 15khz too, but dang it looks nice line-doubled.

The image is shifted over the left a bit, which doesnt happen when I use a retro console (like famicom) on the same monitor. I'll try and use one of the jamma horiz/vertical adjusters when it arrives to help with that.

I am using a bunch of microSD cards with different config's on them for now. Using 75-ohm over arcade with the betsubetsu video circuit gives much richer, vibrant colours.

@invzim what other settings are there for
my ini file' said:
[debug]
console=disable
Click to expand...
just out of curiosity.. if i change to enable the scaler doesn't appear to boot
 
meybarra said:
First, I’m looking forward to getting a Jammafier when they’re back in stock. It will really make my Naomi Universal complete. In the meantime, I’ve been running my boards through the scaler via my HAS. The supergun’s HD15 rgb out and 75ohm/ttl switch made things easier.

I initially had an issue with CPS2 (XvSF) where little to no Blue was displayed. The firmware update fixed this. It’s displaying a nice, colorful picture now.

Taito F3 (Bust a Move) looks good. CPS1 (SF2HF) is real nice, also CPS3 (3rdStrike). Sega STV (Shienryu) looks gorgeous.

Unfortunately, I’m trying to figure out a brightness issue with my MVS MV1FS (Metal Slug). Even with my NUC CRT monitor and HAS brightness maxed out, I feel like the shadow detail is crushed. It normally looks very vibrant on my PVM through the HAS without maxing the brightness. I should spend some more time troubleshooting.
Click to expand...
Jammafiers are in the works, getting a prototype PCB and parts for it this week. Not sure what the MVS issue is, MV1A is the PCB I usually have on my desk when developing. Did you try the A button to re-do the gain auto-adjust?
https://irkenlabs.com/retro-scaler-a1/operation

evilsim said:
i used a jamma extender, took out the RGBS wires and ran them into a betsubetsu (basically the same video circuit as the minigun supergun), then from there into a LM1881/DB15 syncbooster (with 75ohm to gnd on output) and into the Retro Scaler A1. I found some (horizontal wavyness, very little but noticeable) interference being due to the USB power for the scaler, so I am now powering the scaler from the jamma 5v/gnd, which cleaned up a lot of the interference, but there is still a tiny bit I can notice. using 75-ohm and TTL settings, very impressed with the output however. It sadly doesnt make me any better at SF2X tho :P

Why I would want to use 480p when playing CPS2 ? Just for testing of this scaler, I prefer scanlines and 15khz too, but dang it looks nice line-doubled.

The image is shifted over the left a bit, which doesnt happen when I use a retro console (like famicom) on the same monitor. I'll try and use one of the jamma horiz/vertical adjusters when it arrives to help with that.

I am using a bunch of microSD cards with different config's on them for now. Using 75-ohm over arcade with the betsubetsu video circuit gives much richer, vibrant colours.

@invzim what other settings are there for
my ini file' said:
[debug]
console=disable
Click to expand...
just out of curiosity.. if i change to enable the scaler doesn't appear to boot
Click to expand...
There should be no need to run stuff through LM1881 or the like, as the scaler already has a sync-processor on-board. For best results, I recommend running the video signals from Jamma boards straight to the scaler (and using the default rgb=arcade setting) - but I understand you have an existing setup :)

Shifting of the image left/right is something that may come in a future firmware update, it didn't really bother me that much and you normally have to adjust your monitor a bit for for games anyway so I didn't deem it a crucial feature. If/when it's implemented, I will try to have the image centered with Naomi as the reference, i.e if Naomi is centered, retro scaler output should also be centered.

You will like the console stuff :) It enables real-time logging to usb serial. Power the scaler via computer, and it will show up as a com port. You need something like putty or teraterm to display it. If console is enabled, it won't progress boot until a terminal is ready.

If you want the same logging on sd-card, just place an (empty) file called "rsa1debug.txt" on it.
 
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invzim said:
Sp33dFr34k said:
Looks awesome! Next, a downscaler from 31khz to 15khz? :D
Click to expand...
Next is getting some Jammafiers back in stock. Thought about a downscaler, but not sure if there's demand - guess it would have to be HDMI input and arcade output.
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It would enable me to play some TTX2 goodness on my MS9 among other things :D
 
@invzim - thanks for the tip "rsa1debug.txt" file on the SD card. Also I would normally use PUTTY for terminal stuff :) just select your com port and settings and wallah -- cool feature BTW !! also I will try that sync setting.

@doonut - thats exactly what I was going to do, split the VGA the streaming device + CRT on astro cab
 
Definitely interested in getting one or more of these at some point... just not yet.

Are you planning on making more of these once you sell out of the current batch?
 
andynumbers said:
Definitely interested in getting one or more of these at some point... just not yet.

Are you planning on making more of these once you sell out of the current batch?
Click to expand...
I hope it comes to the point where it makes sense to make more - still got many units in stock so I wouldn't sweat it. The number in the webshop is not entirely correct - webshop lists number of tested and assembled units ready to ship, not available assembled PCB's.
 
ok not sure what I'm doing wrong I plugged in in jammafier my retroscaler I dont get sync on my splatterhouse. Is namco system 1 one of systems that dont work?
 
none of my games are working. Besides splatterhouse not getting sync my other games horizontal is way to wide

Monitor is a 2932 nanao.
 
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8bitforlife said:
ok not sure what I'm doing wrong I plugged in in jammafier my retroscaler I dont get sync on my splatterhouse. Is namco system 1 one of systems that dont work?
Click to expand...
8bitforlife said:
none of my games are working. Besides splatterhouse not getting sync my other games horizontal is way to wide

Monitor is a 2932 nanao.
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Tested games here, https://irkenlabs.com/retro-scaler-a1/tested-sources - Namco system 1 not tested yet it seems.

I have a 2932 Nanao myself, so I know it's a good one. Is this monitor working ok with e.g. Naomi? Width is adjusted on the monitor itself.

You're using the scaler straight from the jammafier? - i.e. you should not use a tri-sync helper..
 
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