RandomRetro
Professional
That is for PAL F. PAL G should just be a straight plug it in... or at least I thought.
- Thread starter xodaraP
- Start date
I used a Pal G on mine and I had to lift pin 9. It has been a while. I think it depends on the B board revision.
RandomRetro
Professional
Oddly enough after looking at that picture I just took, I noticed pin 9 was bent up on the PAL G that came with you multi but I tried the other and same result... and based on @‘xodaraP’s response that wouldn't prevent the key writing either way.
So the SD card was from Highscore, and I have one other in my ST-V. Should I swap it and see what happens?
So the SD card was from Highscore, and I have one other in my ST-V. Should I swap it and see what happens?
Last edited:
Roger.
RandomRetro
Professional
Tried my other SD and no change. If I need to order another I can to try it, but not sure...
ScanDisk class 4 8GB
ScanDisk class 4 8GB
Last edited:
xodaraP
Legendary
Are you using a Windows PC or Mac to write the card and which roll up pack are you using?
I have run into boards that do exactly what you're describing and won't load any games, but they were battery damaged and yours was running Progear prior to the multi install so I don't think it's a board issue.
I have run into boards that do exactly what you're describing and won't load any games, but they were battery damaged and yours was running Progear prior to the multi install so I don't think it's a board issue.
RandomRetro
Professional
Windows PC and 2020-05-24 roll up pack.
Yeah the board is really clean and I don't see any battery damage for what it is worth.
Yeah the board is really clean and I don't see any battery damage for what it is worth.
RandomRetro
Professional
Yeah SD card just has the games folder and games under it. LCD lets me scroll through them and select them as desired. Get Flashing Game message, Writing key message, and then All Done have fun message.
I don't have another B Board for testing without a bit of work. unfortunately. I have two other B boards, but one isn't suicided and original seals intact, and one has an infinity-key setup. Maybe I need to find someone in the area, or send this to someone to test... stinks.
I don't have another B Board for testing without a bit of work. unfortunately. I have two other B boards, but one isn't suicided and original seals intact, and one has an infinity-key setup. Maybe I need to find someone in the area, or send this to someone to test... stinks.
xodaraP
Legendary
If you're in the US I think it might be time to contact @Mitsurugi-w for some help getting it up and running
RandomRetro
Professional
My B board and Multi are on their way to @Mitsurugi-w so we will see where that goes.
RandomRetro
Professional
So humbly eating crow here... but posting in hopes I save someone else form the humiliation 
My issue was the fact that the multi connection bridge wasn't pressed down fully. I thought I was going to break the board, but nope. Here is a picture to show what it looks like fully pressed down...
But I guess my issues aren't fully resolved. Things seem to be booting inconsistently with errors. Sometime I rewrite the image and all is good, other times I get a solid color screen, boots to unresponsive test menu, boot with graphical glitches, boots and stays on one of the start up screens, etc... I tested and adjusted the voltage on the PCB jamma edge between 5.0 - 5.1v and the same issues persist. The varying boots occur with the same game, so it isn't game related. My only thought is related to power. I am testing this on my HAS v4 with Mean Well 606 PSU, and I have reseated my B-board several times.
Any other suggestions, or retire?
My issue was the fact that the multi connection bridge wasn't pressed down fully. I thought I was going to break the board, but nope. Here is a picture to show what it looks like fully pressed down...But I guess my issues aren't fully resolved. Things seem to be booting inconsistently with errors. Sometime I rewrite the image and all is good, other times I get a solid color screen, boots to unresponsive test menu, boot with graphical glitches, boots and stays on one of the start up screens, etc... I tested and adjusted the voltage on the PCB jamma edge between 5.0 - 5.1v and the same issues persist. The varying boots occur with the same game, so it isn't game related. My only thought is related to power. I am testing this on my HAS v4 with Mean Well 606 PSU, and I have reseated my B-board several times.
Any other suggestions, or retire?
Maybe you are getting poor connection to dip sockets due to corrosion/dirt. I would try removing the multi and spraying all of the dip sockets with DeoxIT D5, then try installing it again and see how it goes.So humbly eating crow here... but posting in hopes I save someone else form the humiliation
But I guess my issues aren't fully resolved. Things seem to be booting inconsistently with errors. Sometime I rewrite the image and all is good, other times I get a solid color screen, boots to unresponsive test menu, boot with graphical glitches, boots and stays on one of the start up screens, etc... I tested and adjusted the voltage on the PCB jamma edge between 5.0 - 5.1v and the same issues persist. The varying boots occur with the same game, so it isn't game related. My only thought is related to power. I am testing this on my HAS v4 with Mean Well 606 PSU, and I have reseated my B-board several times.
Any other suggestions, or retire?
RandomRetro
Professional
So I used some DeoxIT D5 and also noticed some of the pins on the secondary multi board were popping out and just resting on the socket. So reseated everything and will keep an eye out to make sure things stay put. May replace the socket if it keeps happening. But for now things are up and running happily.
I just want to share how I got to work my Darksoft Multi CPS2 as a newbie in soldering etc.
I first used a suicided color gray SFZ3 cps2 board a+b giving color pink screen, I have no idea if it still works or not. I bought it for 20$ value here.
Installed the pal g, remove the roms, set the jumpers, installed Darksofts' PCBs, soldered and resoldered the 4 wiring, and used the old decrypted and encrypted roms =all resulted to pink screen.
After a week, I bought a phoenix MVC color green cps2 board a+b for around $100, I removed the roms, the jumper was already set, installed Darksofts' PCBs, and used the decrypted roms and it worked. However, encrypted roms did not work and resulted to red screen.
On the side, I installed the roms from phoenix MVC cps2 board b to my dead color gray SFZ cps board b, I was surprised, it worked and I was able to play the phoenix MVC. I discovered the gray SFZ3 cps2 board a was faulty, it has no sounds.
Back to the Darksoft cps2 board, I resolder the 4 wirings again, this time using the suggested temp - I got lucky first and second time not melting the pads, got a cold solder because my solder wire has a high melting point, I should have used a low temp melting point solder wire. Tested the encrypted roms, I was surprised, it now works.
Just my inputs, better use a phoenix cps2 for donor, the phoenix roms can still work later on and better use a low melting point solder wire to solder the 4 wirings to avoid melting the pads.
I first used a suicided color gray SFZ3 cps2 board a+b giving color pink screen, I have no idea if it still works or not. I bought it for 20$ value here.
Installed the pal g, remove the roms, set the jumpers, installed Darksofts' PCBs, soldered and resoldered the 4 wiring, and used the old decrypted and encrypted roms =all resulted to pink screen.
After a week, I bought a phoenix MVC color green cps2 board a+b for around $100, I removed the roms, the jumper was already set, installed Darksofts' PCBs, and used the decrypted roms and it worked. However, encrypted roms did not work and resulted to red screen.
On the side, I installed the roms from phoenix MVC cps2 board b to my dead color gray SFZ cps board b, I was surprised, it worked and I was able to play the phoenix MVC. I discovered the gray SFZ3 cps2 board a was faulty, it has no sounds.
Back to the Darksoft cps2 board, I resolder the 4 wirings again, this time using the suggested temp - I got lucky first and second time not melting the pads, got a cold solder because my solder wire has a high melting point, I should have used a low temp melting point solder wire. Tested the encrypted roms, I was surprised, it now works.
Just my inputs, better use a phoenix cps2 for donor, the phoenix roms can still work later on and better use a low melting point solder wire to solder the 4 wirings to avoid melting the pads.
Attachments
Thanks, Im very happy with it.
Forgot to mention, I encounter no sound from my supergun while using the HDMI connection. I just used the cps2 b board rca jack with 12V powered speaker for sound.
I see, I will try again to check the other a board with no sounds. Thanks.
