- Thread starter Arthrimus
- Start date
Are you sure you are turning them the right way? Clockwise is turns down resistance. Anti clockwise turns up resistance.
Also, make you use a multimeter instead of eye balling the levels on screen. There are test points for the RGB lines so you can ohm out the levels for each R/G/B channel.
Also, make you use a multimeter instead of eye balling the levels on screen. There are test points for the RGB lines so you can ohm out the levels for each R/G/B channel.
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Thanks! What should the default values be?
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475 ohms
So at 475 the image was still too bright. Turning the pots all the way counter clockwise provided the best picture. It seems like an increased impedance is needed. I have this monitor calibrated for my jamma boards and those look fine. I’m wondering if there could be an issue with my VGA cable. I also tried to adjust the brightness slider in Windows 10 advanced display settings and there is no slider assuming since I’m using the crt emudrivers.
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I believe 475 was a good value that Arthrimus found as he was building the units. It's not universal. But again, every monitor is going to be different. Phosphors on tubes even across the same monitors are going to behave differently after 30 years. We all calibrate our monitors differently. Personally, I feel CPS2 is the reference and I adjust console adapters to reach the same levels as CPS2 levels. But switch actual arcade PCB's and calibration is different and your monitor has to be recalibrated. There was never a reference standard for arcades. Such is the nature of the hobby.
Weird though that you guys are getting this issue. VGA voltages and SCART voltages are supposed to be the same (0.7 vpp).
Weird though that you guys are getting this issue. VGA voltages and SCART voltages are supposed to be the same (0.7 vpp).
Tested the 2k pots, have them dialed in at 1.8k and there there doesn’t appear to be any improvement. I’ve also tried a vga to scart cable so it’s using the scart input on the jammaizer instead of the vga hat and there is also no improvement. With no cable connected and just the jammaizer powered on, the screen is too bright. Not sure where to go from here.
erdrick1980
Professional
Maybe they have same problem I had?
For me it turned to be a broken red wire inside the scart that desolderd from pcb inside.
I will try this and report back. I was only using the VGA hat.
I’ve tried scart, vga hat, multiple console systems, a completely different arcade cabinet, and no input at all connected. It is still over driving.
I think I’m going to live with it and set it up in its own dedicated cabinet where I can calibrate the monitor for the jammaizer and not switch between other jamma boards. It’s when switching between arcade boards and the jammaizer where the issue is introduced.
Just curious, which monitor do you have?
