It is, but what the heck, it was available at the moment.
BTW - I like your thread on the filter board idea to consolize the naomi
- Thread starter kioku25
- Start date
BTW - I like your thread on the filter board idea to consolize the naomi
skate323k137
Enlightened
I think the issue lies more with the inability to tune 5v and 3.3v on the ATX PSUs. While the wattage should be OK many times those rails run low which is not friendly to the NAOMI. There's no problem using higher wattage if it smooths out the issues.
Another issue that I noticed didn't show up here in relation to the ATX issue is that with NO LOAD, your average pc power supply outputs 3.3,5,12 etc. volts. If there's not enough headspace in the available current for any of those rails, the voltage will drop below these values, and things that require 3.3v really don't like being starved of power...
On the other hand, arcade PSU's have a bit of a solution to this- they have adjustable outputs, and most of the time, are already dialed in when you buy them USED to output OVER the needed voltage, as the previous owner likely had a similar PCB (for example a Naomi on a Sun PSU, or a MODEL 3 on a NVS-4000-01, etc...) such that when the board is fully powered, the voltage measured at the terminals on the PCB is the required 3.3/5/12volts.
Some readings of the actuall current under load of a N1 and N2 running various games would be HIGHLY recommended to sort this issue out once and for all. Peak readings for each of the 3 voltages are important, NOT the AC input current.
On the other hand, arcade PSU's have a bit of a solution to this- they have adjustable outputs, and most of the time, are already dialed in when you buy them USED to output OVER the needed voltage, as the previous owner likely had a similar PCB (for example a Naomi on a Sun PSU, or a MODEL 3 on a NVS-4000-01, etc...) such that when the board is fully powered, the voltage measured at the terminals on the PCB is the required 3.3/5/12volts.
Some readings of the actuall current under load of a N1 and N2 running various games would be HIGHLY recommended to sort this issue out once and for all. Peak readings for each of the 3 voltages are important, NOT the AC input current.
Lol, beat me to it.
Quick question, is there a power supply out there that can do -5, 3.3, 5, 12 volts that are adjustable with enough amps to cover basically the requirements of all boards/systems?
or maybe an adapter board that connects inline at the ATX connector of a PC PSU that can make the voltages adjustable?
or maybe an adapter board that connects inline at the ATX connector of a PC PSU that can make the voltages adjustable?
the -5 limits your selection for out of the box capable psu's...
BUT most boards that need -5 doesn't need much current
what this means is that you can spend an arm and a leg tracking down a riverservice NVS clone, or a genuine NVS (I still want 2 of them, lol) or you can simply wire a negatron (or similar) into your JAMMA harness: https://www.dimensionengineering.com/products/negatron
Alternately, you could add a 3.3v regulator with decent wattage to a more classic JAMMA psu that already has -5v.
I'd tell you which I'd go with (hint, i'd have to look hard to find any games that need -5v that I want to play)
One last option that I've seen commonly done, is to use a JAMMA male to female board, with a negatron wired in, for those crazy rare times you actually NEED -5v.
Here's FrancoB's example:
Last edited:
I love the NAOMI and own a pile of them, however if your main goal is to play racing games like Initial D then my recommendation is to NOT buy a NAOMI 2 and instead buy a Lindbergh. After you buy everything to make a CF or Net-Boot setup work plus a NAOMI 2 and proper power supply you're up in the $500 range, you can import a Lindbergh and install a multi-kit, and use a cheap PC PSU for about the same price and have a MUCH better selection of Racing titles.
I mean Crazy taxi is fun and all but on Lindbergh you'll get Initial D 5 and Outrun 2 SP... that alone makes it worth it IMO.
I mean Crazy taxi is fun and all but on Lindbergh you'll get Initial D 5 and Outrun 2 SP... that alone makes it worth it IMO.
You need to be able to solder in this hobby, luckily it's not hard, I was proficient enough in a few hours to be good enough to wire a cherry mx keyboard to a toodles ps3 pcb.
That being said, don't think you need to be Lord Solderton to get gear working. Most of what you need to do is not hard at all.
That being said, don't think you need to be Lord Solderton to get gear working. Most of what you need to do is not hard at all.
So, something like this would cover all the bases, especially if I want to get a Lindbergh and a Ring Edge later on, right?
I do want to get a Lindbergh at some point, but they are getting more expensive, even on Yahoo. A full kit would easily set me back $600.
The bigger the PSU Watts is not always the better..
The PSU should work between 40% (very bare minimum) and 60% of its maximum rating. 1000W will for sure work, but it's for sure not optimum.
Any PSU working at less than 30% of its capacity will work like shit (speaking about efficiency), and even thought efficiency and stability are not directly linked, I have had bad experiences in stability with under loaded PSU.
Anyway.. it's your risk, you decide
The PSU should work between 40% (very bare minimum) and 60% of its maximum rating. 1000W will for sure work, but it's for sure not optimum.
Any PSU working at less than 30% of its capacity will work like shit (speaking about efficiency), and even thought efficiency and stability are not directly linked, I have had bad experiences in stability with under loaded PSU.
Anyway.. it's your risk, you decide
Last edited:
Taito X series, Ringedge, and likely tons more all use dedicated power supplies, and instead connect to your mains.
Got a few more questions regarding the CF kit.
From what I've read, I will have to install a zero key into either a a standard DIMM Board or a netDIMM board. The DIMM board will also have to be running FW 4.02, is that correct? Will a 256 MB one work or do I absolutely need the 512 MB one to be able to run all the games?
Is $50 a good price for a standard 256 MB DIMM board? Also, where would I get the zero key?
From what I've read, I will have to install a zero key into either a a standard DIMM Board or a netDIMM board. The DIMM board will also have to be running FW 4.02, is that correct? Will a 256 MB one work or do I absolutely need the 512 MB one to be able to run all the games?
Is $50 a good price for a standard 256 MB DIMM board? Also, where would I get the zero key?
skate323k137
Enlightened
256 runs nearly every Naomi1 game. I would have to check the file size for naomi2 games.
Plenty of people can make you the appropriate 0key PIC, myself included.
If you get a net dimm you can usually netboot the upgrades yourself. Updating a normal dimm to 4.02 is quite advanced and you would want to pay someone to do it... I think mitsurugi-w and tylerdurden can offer that service.
Plenty of people can make you the appropriate 0key PIC, myself included.
If you get a net dimm you can usually netboot the upgrades yourself. Updating a normal dimm to 4.02 is quite advanced and you would want to pay someone to do it... I think mitsurugi-w and tylerdurden can offer that service.
all naomi 2 games can boot on 256mb dimm boards. There are 5 naomi games that require 512. But upgrading the memory costs about $15 and takes all of 5 minutes to install.
Getting to 4.02 on a net dimm isn't too bad as long as you have the FW updater discs to get to the point where netboot will work then you can netboot the updaters. A lot of net dimms will already be on a version that can netboot, so it's best to see what you get.
On a normal dimm, my understanding is that the dimm must be manually flashed with an flash memory programmer.
On a normal dimm, my understanding is that the dimm must be manually flashed with an flash memory programmer.
So basically you're sending the game you wanna play from your notebook or your phone to the NetDimm board, which stores the game until you overwrite it with another one? How long does the transfer usually take?
So the way netbooting works is your sending the game that you wanna play to the netdimm board from your pc or RaspPi2/3 via your phone. Netdimm then loads the game onto the NAOMi to be played.
Notebook or RaspberryPi3 w/ Piforce Web --(cross over cable needed here)-->Netdimm Board sees incoming game ----> loads game to NAOMI---> Play!
Overall loading is around maybe under 2mins or 3mins at max. Bigger games more loading nothing crazy long. Faster than a GD-Rom drive. For sure fast then loading a game on a CPS3 too. haha 45mins.
Your PC or RaspPi3 is the uploader and storer of the games. By using the Pi you are taking away the reason to have a pc next to the setup. The Pi has a program installed on an SDcard called Piforce web with a roms folder. It is recommended by most to buy the RaspberryPi3 because it has the built in wifi connector which enables the ablity to connect to via your smart phone. If you own a RaspberryPi2, it can still achieved this setup but you would have to take advantage of a usb wifi dongle for the connection. Here is a link to help you. Piforce Web information. After you have installed the Piforce Web onto the SDcard. You will also need to partition the SDcard in order to fit games in the roms folder. Most game are usually under 200mb, however, there are a couple of games that are pretty large and reach 325mb(+/-). Also, switching from game to game is crazy fast. Just open a NEW tab in your browser and type in gg.com and select a new one. The Piforce is setup to switch between them automatical without having to do a full power down. Every once in a while you may have some game switch hangups, just reboot the setup. All good. My Pi3, 32gb SDcard, 5v(2.5A) charger, and case was like 60 bucks shipped with prime. good luck dude. Hope this helps.
So the way netbooting works is your sending the game that you wanna play to the netdimm board from your pc or RaspPi2/3 via your phone. Netdimm then loads the game onto the NAOMi to be played.
Notebook or RaspberryPi3 w/ Piforce Web --(cross over cable needed here)-->Netdimm Board sees incoming game ----> loads game to NAOMI---> Play!
Overall loading is around maybe under 2mins or 3mins at max. Bigger games more loading nothing crazy long. Faster than a GD-Rom drive. For sure fast then loading a game on a CPS3 too. haha 45mins.
Your PC or RaspPi3 is the uploader and storer of the games. By using the Pi you are taking away the reason to have a pc next to the setup. The Pi has a program installed on an SDcard called Piforce web with a roms folder. It is recommended by most to buy the RaspberryPi3 because it has the built in wifi connector which enables the ablity to connect to via your smart phone. If you own a RaspberryPi2, it can still achieved this setup but you would have to take advantage of a usb wifi dongle for the connection. Here is a link to help you. Piforce Web information. After you have installed the Piforce Web onto the SDcard. You will also need to partition the SDcard in order to fit games in the roms folder. Most game are usually under 200mb, however, there are a couple of games that are pretty large and reach 325mb(+/-). Also, switching from game to game is crazy fast. Just open a NEW tab in your browser and type in gg.com and select a new one. The Piforce is setup to switch between them automatical without having to do a full power down. Every once in a while you may have some game switch hangups, just reboot the setup. All good. My Pi3, 32gb SDcard, 5v(2.5A) charger, and case was like 60 bucks shipped with prime. good luck dude. Hope this helps.
I just bought the Naomi 2 Mobo. The good news, it comes with a multibios, the bad news, the price was a little higher than I had anticipated.
Acquiring the rest of the accessories will have to wait until next month.
Acquiring the rest of the accessories will have to wait until next month.
