hi!
I just recapped and re-heat-sinked my power supply on my blast city and I am getting zero +voltage reading from my multi-meter.
Any ideas what could be causing this?
The LED red bulb in the inside of the PSU cage is not turning on.
Odd thing is, I am able to get voltage out the back though via the 100v out port
The fuse has not blown. No smell, no burning... Wonder if the PSU needs to be under load to show a rating? I wouldn't assume that is the case but I am not sure.
What I did to debug my handwork:
1) verified all the caps are facing the right direction (no +legs in a -spot etc..)
2) checked the kit I got from arcade parts and repair and ticked off the list 2x to make sure I installed the caps in the right spots.
3) Made sure all connections were put back in their respective places.
4) multi-metered the jamma harness (0 rating DC)
5) checked the PSU connection to the Sega harness was butted up close.
6) got out a cheapy jamma board to see if a load would make it read... Nope
My assumptions...
The kit had a very interesting swap for capacitors on c36 and c44
Instead of the original electrolytic caps which were rated at 0.47 @50v, they were replaced with 0.47 if @50v tant style
The tant cap had a + marking on it so I made sure it was matching the original cap positioning.
Any ideas or suggestions would be helpful!
I just recapped and re-heat-sinked my power supply on my blast city and I am getting zero +voltage reading from my multi-meter.
Any ideas what could be causing this?
The LED red bulb in the inside of the PSU cage is not turning on.
Odd thing is, I am able to get voltage out the back though via the 100v out port
The fuse has not blown. No smell, no burning... Wonder if the PSU needs to be under load to show a rating? I wouldn't assume that is the case but I am not sure.
What I did to debug my handwork:
1) verified all the caps are facing the right direction (no +legs in a -spot etc..)
2) checked the kit I got from arcade parts and repair and ticked off the list 2x to make sure I installed the caps in the right spots.
3) Made sure all connections were put back in their respective places.
4) multi-metered the jamma harness (0 rating DC)
5) checked the PSU connection to the Sega harness was butted up close.
6) got out a cheapy jamma board to see if a load would make it read... Nope
My assumptions...
The kit had a very interesting swap for capacitors on c36 and c44
Instead of the original electrolytic caps which were rated at 0.47 @50v, they were replaced with 0.47 if @50v tant style
The tant cap had a + marking on it so I made sure it was matching the original cap positioning.
Any ideas or suggestions would be helpful!
Last edited: