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Both of the 2 pcs picture^+^,do keep the wire disconnected.(the black pencil we marked)

Picture 1,soldering like that(we mark with red pencil),and also exchange the encrypted IC.It should be able to solved.
Picture 2 ,exchange the encrypted IC,also keep the wire disconnected.

If still have some other question,pls let me know.
So which one that i must follow to fix background image issues?
picture 1 or picture 2?
 
Hi,

It all depends on the game card u received.(THe killing blade has 2 kinds of game card),u can compare with it. The yellow one we marked is the encrypted IC that need to be exchanged.
 

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Both of the 2 pcs picture^+^,do keep the wire disconnected.(the black pencil we marked)

Picture 1,soldering like that(we mark with red pencil),and also exchange the encrypted IC.It should be able to solved.
Picture 2 ,exchange the encrypted IC,also keep the wire disconnected.

If still have some other question,pls let me know.
This is for the background tile fix you're sending out? We have to disconnect the wire (and maybe add another one)? Or is this for a different fix?
Yes,fix the background's problem,disconnect the wire and add the red one(we marked).Luckily,several customer has been solved the problem^+^.
 
Both of the 2 pcs picture^+^,do keep the wire disconnected.(the black pencil we marked)

Picture 1,soldering like that(we mark with red pencil),and also exchange the encrypted IC.It should be able to solved.
Picture 2 ,exchange the encrypted IC,also keep the wire disconnected.

If still have some other question,pls let me know.
Excuse me, but what do you mean when you say “Encrypted IC”? Is that TTL chip you removed in the first picture? Did you replace it with another one placed in the socket in the top-left of the first image?
The "encrypted IC" he is referring to is the GAL or PAL 16V8 20-pin logic device at U7. I didn't take the sticker off so I dunno if it's actually a GAL or PAL. Either way it would be nice if someone could plug it into a logic analyzer and dump it.

I got my replacement chips in yesterday but they are marked DQ U8 so I think they may have been plucked off of a different cartridge where this devices sits at location U8 rather than U7, but that's just a guess. Hopefully all "DQ" PALs function the same regardless of if they are marked for U7 or U8.

Do we even have an understanding of what this device is doing? A 16V8 PLD is way too simple to act as a security device for a PGM cart. If I were to guess it's probably similar to the swapping of the PAL on the conversion of Gakumon no Susume to Turtles in Time. That device is used for a particular memory mapping.
 
All it's used for is memory mapping. the U7/U8 device is just there for mapping to the background ROM. but it's a protected device so there's no way to dump it short of brute forcing it. I don't believe any of the 22V10s use registered inputs so they should be able to be reversed via brute force. I've yet to find any information on a way to do that myself though.
 
Someone should submit them to Caius or Porchy. Protected PALs are typically plugged into a logic analyzer to "dump" them, but it's not a real dump, it's a brute force like you said. Only way to truly dump a protected PAL is to decap it and then put it under a microscope.
 
All it's used for is memory mapping. the U7/U8 device is just there for mapping to the background ROM. but it's a protected device so there's no way to dump it short of brute forcing it. I don't believe any of the 22V10s use registered inputs so they should be able to be reversed via brute force. I've yet to find any information on a way to do that myself though.
You can do what Any PGM Conversion info out there? did and "read it like a rom".
If you look at the datasheet, most input/output pins are fixed, and those that can be configured for both can be guessed from the schematic. You can then go through all bit patterns possible (for example with 8 pins that is 2^8=256) for all connected pins. If no registers are used you'll get the same output for the same input.
You could probably build a circuit with an arduino, or build an adaptor so it maps to the pinout for an eprom you can read with a programmer. You'll then get a file of all outputs for all inputs.

You can then convert this truth table into a boolean expression. You can do that by hand, though a quick google search shows that there are online tools as well.
 
I got another mobo and espgalude cart. Swapping around the parts I have narrow down my graphic problem to the main motherboard. I only notice this little graphic glitch on the espgalude cart. Turning the voltage down to 4.9 make it worst and up to 5.2/3 is better but not 100%. Other than broken traces anything I should measure/ look for?
 
This is the first version of the schematic for a replacement graphics board. I noticed a few odd things with the higher address lines I need to double-check with my kov2 cart. No surprises, just a pile of 27c322 (2MB x 16) and some decoder logic. Sigh, I'm not looking forward to the layout.
 

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I received my replacement chips from Sheep Nova yesterday, he was very quick to answer all the questions I had. Here is a pic of my Espgaluda cart. I had to swap out the DH rom with the DQ rom, remove the old jumper wire and put a new on on the leg of the ic. It now works perfectly.

oQrYtJdh.jpg



Sorry, I have not had a chance to look at the program rom on my DDP DOJ White/Black cart yet.
 
Might want to use a thinner gauge wire. Also your PAL at U8 looks like it's about to pop out. Might want to push it back in the socket.
 
I received my replacement chips from Sheep Nova yesterday, he was very quick to answer all the questions I had. Here is a pic of my Espgaluda cart. I had to swap out the DH rom with the DQ rom, remove the old jumper wire and put a new on on the leg of the ic. It now works perfectly.

oQrYtJdh.jpg



Sorry, I have not had a chance to look at the program rom on my DDP DOJ White/Black cart yet.
Anybody knows what's the source cartridge board from where DQ-U7 is originally placed? That sticker looks like from factory.
 
Rough component placement:
char_3d.jpg


I noticed the card edge spacing is a good match for XT-ISA slots (the 8-bit part of an AT-ISA slot):
IMG_20190109_214644.jpg

It looks slightly off in this picture, but that is because they don't lie perfectly flat. (In case anyone needs to find replacement slot connectors.)
 
Has anyone seen an issue where Ketsui doesn’t allow continues? It only happened once so far and the issue went away when I power cycled and reseated the cartridge.
 
Has anyone seen an issue where Ketsui doesn’t allow continues? It only happened once so far and the issue went away when I power cycled and reseated the cartridge.
On the test/service menu, you can choose to allow continues or not and change a lot of other settings related to the game.

It's a bit weird it happened once and then reverted back to normal, it could be a NVRAM / battery error. I suggest clearing the NVRAM and setting the game up the way you like it.
 
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