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timsithD

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I've been having some trouble sourcing a single ID Ver3 Arcade Stage for about a month now. I see lots of places have ID 6's or 7's for sale and for what appear to be fairly decent prices. Oddly enough I really enjoy the older ID ver3 which is not to say I don't like the newer versions, I just like the music and overall feel of that game. (Forever ago I had a PS2 I modded which played Initial D speical stage and VER 3 shares a bunch of the story and physics as well as the sound track). So here's my question, could I run ID3 on a ID6 or 7 Cab? I know the hardware if very different (Naomi 2 Vs what is in ID4 and above Ringedge I think is what it is called). I didn't know if some kit / hack / cool method exists that could be used to play ID3 on a newer ID cab. Again, probably an odd question but I figured it can't hurt to ask. Thanks for any comments / help! 8)
 
I think you'd be good to go for a relatively straight NAOMI drop-in. The controls would work. You'd lose force feedback because ID4 and up use a different communication protocol for their force feedback boards (which incidentally CAN be translated, but not without a decent amount of work). The thing I'm unsure of is if the monitor in the newer cabs accepts VGA input, and if they do, do they stretch the NAOMI's video into wide-screen?

I think @freddiefiasco has both types of cabs and would be able to shed more light on the subject.
 
This is really good info, thanks a ton! I hadn't really thought about that (Just changing the boards if I wanted to go back and forth between ID3 and ID7 That is pretty interesting. Would the power supplies for those be the same for the most part? I guess losing force feedback wouldn't be too bad. The more I think about it though the more I would wonder about something like cards. I would imagine the card reader for IDAS7 is pretty different (But I could be wrong hahaha)
 
Actually, power supply likely would be another issue. You'd need a JVS power supply for the NAOMI and that's not something that would be in newer ID cabs, as far as I know. I know they use JVS I/O boards and that will work with the NAOMI, and as far as I know, the controls would map up and work well enough. ID4 and up have extra buttons that wouldn't work in ID3, but I think the critical controls are all the same, so you'd just plug the JVS (USB form factor) plug into the NAOMI for I/O.

I'm not familiar with the power supply in the newer cabs. Perhaps there's a way to adapt them to the connectors that NAOMI needs.
 
There would be power wiring considerations for the I/O board, too. I'm not sure if it somehow takes power from the psu in the Ringedge (Lindbergh has an external PSU and is in ID4 and 5 cabs, but also not a JVS psu). If that board isn't independently powered, it will need to be accounted for in the swap.

Maybe it's more difficult of a swap than I assumed... :S
 
You can run ID 1,2,3 in an ID4,5,6,7,8 cabinet.

The gotcha to this setup is that the Monitor on ID4,5,6,7,8 has a different resolution that not play well with ID1,2,3. In this situation I ended up just placing another monitor in front of the screen just to play.

You can use the Steering Wheel control panel, the shifter, the view screen buttons, test and service buttons and foot pedals on all of them. You only lose out on the arrow buttons, these are not used in ID1-3.

If you want to keep force feedback, you need to just swap out the FFB board used in ID1-3 with the one used for ID4-8. The serial connection uses RS-485 so this needs to be used as well. This will be the same for ID1-3 using one type of card reader vs ID4-8 using the other type.

I'm currently not near my cabs atm but I will try to take screenshots of both setups so you get a visual idea of how you may want to swap between the two cabs.

The cab used for ID1-3 just has enough room under the seat to house the RingEdge in place of the NAOMI2 in addition to the other components without having to pull anything else out.

I am working on adding a hardwire switch to swap between both NAOMI2 and RingEdge components but there are a lot of components that make it tricky let alone the real estate to fit both consoles inside the cab.

In the ID4-8 cab, you can fit an additional console under the seat right behind the RingEdge, the wiring needs to be split between the two systems.
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Im going opposite route, converting initial d3 cabinets to d6.

The Naomi 2 hardware is like a china doll , breaks easily.

Have black screen on one, just happened out of nowhere, game would reset during play, then next day would not boot.

I bought another "working" naomi 2 to replace and when i recieved it i powered it up and has a checkered screen and runs slow, so slow it doesnt even get to game. Waste of money.

Then there is the dimm boards, which also are causing trouble.

Complete nightmare of a system, i have not spent so much time troubleshooting any of.my arcade games as.much as the naomi2.

My rock the rush, cruisn world, raw thrills drift, raw thrills fast and furious all work with little effort.
 
If you want to the see the innards of an ID3 ive done a ton of videos


And my video blog restoring mine. Ive had to do alot to get most of its functions back online

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLWGCL9MQTnZXStPp2cbtToAyUQS4Pl0Wb


As I understand it, if you can get your hands on a Crazy Taxi ID3 can be dropped in to play on it with its steering wheel.
 
As I understand it, if you can get your hands on a Crazy Taxi ID3 can be dropped in to play on it with its steering wheel.
It will play terribly. Crazy Taxi has a steering wheel with 270 degrees of rotation. Initial D is 900.
 
As I understand it, if you can get your hands on a Crazy Taxi ID3 can be dropped in to play on it with its steering wheel.
It will play terribly. Crazy Taxi has a steering wheel with 270 degrees of rotation. Initial D is 900.
Ah, good to know. I just put a new belt on mine so its super stiff, might still be doable
 
Why didn't you take apart the steering assembly to check the belt, bushing, and cams to begin with?
That's a bit of a long complicated answer, but the two primary reasons were

1. The steering wheel worked without Force Feedback, we knew we would eventually need to find the transformer to get that working since im rebuilding the slave cab
2. Im not in the habit of taking things apart if they are working and or if I don't have the parts to replace them. It would steer, I didn't want to find I couldn't get it back together.

I bought the entire replacement assembly from Yaton to cover if I needed to replace anything in there.
 
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