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twistedsymphony

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I get asked a lot what printer to buy and really there is no simple answer, it's like asking "whats the best car?" There are A LOT of options, and a lot of price points, and a lot of conflicting information online and people making suggestions who have no idea what they're taking about. it's enough to make your head spin. Selecting the right printer depends on what you're trying to do with it, how much you'd like to hack and tinker around with your printer, and of course, how much you're willing to spend.

There are many different print technologies. I'm only going to talk about FDM which is the most widely used among consumer printers and what most people think of when they think of a 3D printer. I'm not very familiar with the other technologies so you're better off researching those elsewhere if you're interested in something different.

The first step is to ask yourself some questions:
1. What materials do you want to print with? most printers will do PLA, which is the most common material on the market, it has good dimensional accuracy and temperature stability so it's easy to print with, but it has a low melting point and it's not as strong as other materials so it's not the best for applications where stress/abuse or high temperatures are involved. ABS is a really common alternative for higher temp/higher abuse prints, but there are a number of features that your 3D printer must have to support this material. Then there are more "exotic" materials such as Nylon, TPU, Wood-Fill, Metal-Fill, CarbonFiber-Fill and new material types and blends being developed all the time each having different demands of your printer.

2. How big or how detailed do you want your prints to be? Bigger is better right? well, the larger the printer the more rigid the frame and more accurate the stepper motors need to be to keep it accurate across a longer distance, so as size increases the cost tends to increase exponentially. Also consider how much space this will take up, big printers take up big desk space. People who print very large items (like cosplay weapons and armor) tend to print in sections and then epoxy the sections together, but the smaller the printer the more sections you'll have to print and glue together. In general you're going to want to leave some "margins" on your print platform too while a build area of 8inx8in can theoretically print an 8inx8in part sometimes you'll need to leave some space in the parameter in order to print a "brim" or extended supports to help with overhangs which means you'll have less print area to work with.

Nozzle size will determine the "resolution" in which you can print, the smaller the nozzle the higher the resolution options you'll have. But high resolution parts take exponentially longer to print and and will generally have thinner walls making the parts not as strong. Most printers have removable nozzles so you can swap to a smaller size when you want higher resolution or a larger size when speed and strength is more important than detail. filament size also determines the range of nozzles you'll be able to use. Some printers have more than 1 nozzle which opens up a lot of options but also shrinks your build area (since you can only print in the area that both nozzles can reach)


3. How much customization/hackability do you want in your printer? This is actually a fairly big question as there are many companies that are trying to make 3D printers just like paper printers. You feed it a 3D model and hit a button and out pops the part. It sounds good in theory but in practice you'll often run into limitations where things don't come out quite right, or you're limited in the kinds of things you can print or locked into buying vendor specific printer filament. So if you go this route make sure others who have bought these "locked down" printer are actually happy with the capabilities and reliability. On the other end of the spectrum are open source printers which take a lot more time to get up and running and require you to learn a lot about how things work but you'll be able to fine tune every aspect of the print and even upgrade your printer over time to accommodate new techniques and technologies.


Here's what I use for a printer and why I made the decision I did:
I have a RigidBot v1 (they're on V2 now) http://rigidbot.com/
I'm not saying this is the right printer for you, but this was the right printer for me and what I wanted out of a printer.
After Agonizing over all of the different printers available these are the things that led me to buy this particular printer:
1. it has a "big" print area 10"x10"x10", most consumer level printers are 6x6x6 or 8x8x8 so more build area means more options for what you can print... I actually wanted to get their "RigidBot Big" model which was 16x12x10 but by the time I decided to order it was discontinued :( despite the big area it has a very rigid frame (hence the name) so it does well in terms of accuracy despite it's large size.

2. it was fairly "inexpensive" given the feature set...

3. the printer was designed to be "hackable" with mostly off-the-shelf parts being used, and many upgraded parts being sold by RigidBot and made by other owners (it has a fairly large community too). I liked this aspect of it and Even ordered the "disassembled" model which only saved me $20 because I wanted to know every detail of how this thing worked... what better way then to build it myself. (I took me 5 hours to assemble and I have zero regrets about going this route).

4. Rigidbot was made by Inventapart which had their hand in larger industrial 3D printers so I figured they'd be taking high-end designs and making them cheaper as opposed to other companies that would be designing a cheap products from scratch.

My Experience with the RididBot:
I've found that a lot of different people had a lot of different problems with their Rigidbot, I've been "lucky" with mine but I also research and take a moderate approach to trying new things and pushing the boundaries and the RigidBot has no safety net if you push it beyond it's limits; it will self-destruct if you tell it to. A good example is a lot of people having problems with the power cable for the heated platform catching fire... it's rated for 110 deg C I never put it above 100, most of the people who had problems were running it over 120. things like this are IMO GOOD because if I wanted to upgrade my heated platform I also don't want to have to hack the main board to allow higher temps. There are other printers out there that lock down the boundaries or don't even allow user control of these kinds of parameters. Depending on the type of person you are you may want something that allows for infinite tinkering or you may just want to hit a button and make it go...

it hasn't been complely problem free but most of the problems were of my own doing and the few areas where the printer was somewhat lacking I've been able to design my own parts or make parts that other people in the community have designed. The quality of the prints vary based on how well I have the software dialed in. the biggest hurdle was learning the software because it came with NONE. and not only did it not include any software but it didn't even come with any inkling of what software was needed; it was like building a PC having never owned or used a PC and then once I finished realizing that not only does it not include any software but it didn't even include an OS and I had no idea what OS to run or how to use it.... it was a learning experience.

after a year+ of ownership...
My only regret was not buying sooner so I could have bought the BIG model. the only other printer on the market that has made me say "I wish I had that" is the Lulzbot line. but they're 3 to 5 times the price of the RigidBot so...
 
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Things to consider when selecting a printer:
3mm vs 1.75mm filament:
I recommend buying one that supports 1.75mm filament and DOES NOT have vendor lock-in on the filament. Using 1.75mm filament over 3mm because you'll have the option to use finer tipped nozzles for more detailed prints if you need it and 1.75mm filament is WAY more widely used so you'll have a lot more options in terms of price, material type and color. 3mm filament can use really fat nozzles which can allow for really fast prints too but the detail quality on really big nozzles is really bad and IMO unless you're building stuff the size of furniture you should stick to 1.75mm.

Some 3D printer makers require filament spools with a chip in them and they basically treat the filament like ink cartridges... which means you have a very limited selection and you're going to be paying 3 times as much, and if the company collapses (and with as many tiny companies there are in this space, it happens a lot) then you're out of luck. I highly recommend completely avoiding printers like this.

Heated Platforms and Maximum Nozzle Temperature:
In general the higher temps you can run on through the nozzle the more exotic material you can print with. ABS requires nozzle temps around 230C and IMO a heated platform is a MUST for ABS. ABS Shrinks as it cools which means that without a heated platform it will often warp and or break free of the platform and ruin the print. There are merits to Aluminum vs Glass platforms, just make sure it's heated if you want to be able to print materials other than PLA.

Temperature Controlled Enclosure:
The next step beyond heated build platform is a temperature controlled enclosure. That is that is to say that the build area is sealed off and the air temp is controlled. This is hugely beneficial for ABS and other materials that have shrinkage issues since it eliminates major temperature differences across the part. As I understand it a temperature controlled enclosure removes most headaches when printing these materials. However this feature tends to be missing from most open source based printers since the "technology" was patented and only higher end machines or companies with deeper pockets were willing to license it... I've seen people build their own enclosures for printers that didn't have them, some insulation and a exhaust fan controlled by the main board is really all that is needed to make it work (since the build platform and nozzle will provide more than enough heat to bring it up to temp)

Open source software vs Vendor Controlled Software
there are typically 3-4 pieces of software you'll need when 3D printing. and when you talk about manufacture controlled printers vs open source printers you're talking about the software as much as you're talking about the physical design of the printer. How much of a grip the printer manufacturer has over your software can vary greatly and it can encompass all or none of the following:

3d Modeling software (optional) - used to create the actual 3D model of the item to be printed... optional because you might only ever download models made by other people. FreeCAD is a great open source software package, I use SolidWorks which is geared toward engineering design, but any software package that produces a .STL file will generally work. I don't know of any 3D printer that comes with it's own 3D modeling software.

Slicer software - This software is programmed with parameters for your 3D printer... the built platform size, the nozzle size, the material being used, etc. you feed this your 3D model as well as parameters such as the print quality desired wall thickness etc. and it spits out a file with all of the commands necessary for your printer to print the part. There are many open source options for this software (such as Cura, and Slic3r), there are also licensed software options for this (such as Simplify 3D, which is what I use personally), some printers lock you in to their own slicer software that they developed and do not let you use any 3rd party software. This can be both good and bad... good because it probably works really well with their specific printer and leaning how to setup and use the slicer software is probably the biggest hurdle to getting your 3D printer making good prints. Bad because if this software is shit r missing features you want or need, then you're stuck with it and there's likely nothing you can do.

The output from the slicer software is called "gcode" and it's very similar to the code used to control CNC machines in manufacturing.

the printer control software,
This runs on a computer attached to the printer and it feeds the printer each command necessary to make the part. it will tell the printer what temperature to run at, which coordinates to move the nozel to and how fast to extrude the material, it basically reads off the commands from the slicer output file 1 by 1 as the part is being built. Sometimes this runs on a computer built into the printer. I use an Raspberri Pi running software called "OctoPrint" so that I don't have to have my PC plugged into my printer all the time. This also keeps me from worrying about my PC crashing and ruining the print in the process.

the printer firmware,
This runs on the printer itself it controls the servo motors, nozzle heater and heated bed, fans etc. basically takes the commands from the control software and then makes them happen. So controller will say move to coordinates 55,68 and the firmware will turn on the servo motors and count pulses until those coordinates are reached and then report back to the control software that the step is done. Most open source or hackable printers use an Arduino based main board running "marlin" firmware. there are even generic control boards available that allow for control and flexibility, some of these boards are even cross compatible with laser cutters and CNC machines.

Dual Nozzles
Many printers now are offering dual nozzles, this has some obvious benefits as you can run 2 different color filaments to make multi-colored parts. or you could use two different materials types allowing for mixed material parts. or you could run two different sized nozzles to allow easy switching between slow/detailed and fast/strong. Dual nozzles do have some draw backs though. software control becomes that much more complex, you need to know how to design your 3D models for multiple nozzles and how to use your slicer to tell it which parts to build with which nozzle. You also lose some build area since the nozzles are side by side on the edge of the build platform can only print as far as the inner most nozzle so if the nozzles are 1 inch apart then you can lose up to 2 inches of build area along that axis. Depending on the design there may also be issues with nozzle drag, which means the nozzle not being used may scrape or snag areas that were just printed with the other nozzle, some printers have retraction mechanisms to remedy this so it's something to keep in mind if considering dual nozzles.

Self Leveling Beds/self calibration/Nozzle wipers/other feature
There are a lot of other more obscure features offered that can make your life easier. Leveling your bed is pain in the ass process that can mean the difference between a flawless print and complete junk but there are some printers that have self-leveling abilities to complete remove this headache. Similarly self-calibration to make sure when you tell the printer to make a part 1inch long it's actually 1inch long and not any shorter or longer than that. A process that is otherwise manual. I've seen printers with a little brush attachment where it wipes off the nozzle before every print to ensure that it's clean... another thing that is otherwise a manual process and can be annoying. Just some things to consider looking for when buying.


As with buying anything RESEARCH... I've often found the best research you can do when buying a product like this is to google for people posting about problems they're having. People are vocal when something isn't working so other's who have bought the thing you're looking will likely have also posted about any problems they may have run into. Maybe something breaks often, maybe it's missing a key feature that a lot of people lament that it doesn't have. Maybe you discover the thing has a huge community that would be good to help support your usage and future upgrades, or maybe you can't find anyone else who owns one... if you do nothing else... do this before you spend the money. :thumbsup:
 
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