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@acblunden2 I twist the wires down the closest adjacent holes and it is fine.
Just to confirm, from the picture below:
  • Pin 1 should go into hole A
  • Pin 2 should go into hole B
  • Pin 3 should go into hole C
Thanks!

MUS1FUS11_PinLocations.jpg
 
Alrighty, will give it the good ole' college try and have an update by the weekend.

Additionally, the vertical deflection IC I pulled out of the PB7534-1 is clearly 'LA7838'. LA7837 is what I bought from UTSource. Let's hope this works. I'll hang onto LA7838 just in case. Will report back then too.

LA7838.jpg
 
Alrighty, will give it the good ole' college try and have an update by the weekend.

Additionally, the vertical deflection IC I pulled out of the PB7534-1 is clearly 'LA7838'. LA7837 is what I bought from UTSource. Let's hope this works. I'll hang onto LA7838 just in case. Will report back then too.
https://www.electronica-pt.com/ci/LA7837-LA7838.pdf

Seems to be the same part, with the datasheet saying the 7838 can be used to deflect larger screens from 33 to 37 inches. I had based the part number on the part on my personal chassis.
Careful with pulling out / resoldering the deflector, it was in a zone most affected by capacitor leakage and alot of traces were corroded on mine.
 
I didn't have fluid leakage in that area on my chassis. There is lot of caps in that spot however. I had to pull one just to remoe the IC's screw.
 
I'm still trying to repair my psu. That supposedly was fixed. There are alot of bad bridge rectifier resistors and some diodes.
I'm on the diodes part but I have no idea how to identify them.
 

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if someone with a working windy 2 psu can read the 3 diodes that are on the board th that sits next to amp let me know the values
 
I'm still trying to repair my psu. That supposedly was fixed. There are alot of bad bridge rectifier resistors and some diodes.
I'm on the diodes part but I have no idea how to identify them.
Diodes always start with 1N#### for part #s. Its how they are identified on the body.
 
I'm still trying to repair my psu. That supposedly was fixed. There are alot of bad bridge rectifier resistors and some diodes.
I'm on the diodes part but I have no idea how to identify them.
Diodes always start with 1N#### for part #s. Its how they are identified on the body.
With those numbers on the paper can you till me what I need to look for I'm a little lost on this
 
there's the board they came off
 

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And we have success! Taobao flybacks work. I have MAME running at 15khz connected via VGA to the monitor. Very very nice image. Pic of the flyback installed t

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What's more, the flyback on the right is the one that came out of the Windy II Toshiba PB7534-1. The flyback shown on the left came out of a tri-sync cab that is known to work. The are identical flybacks. Guess what chassis that flyback on the left belongs to?
Flyback_Comparison.jpg
 
Right you are. But thus far these flyback have been explained to work in the MS2931's. But that is an MS2930 with pots on the remote board instead of momentary switches. Interesting that the Toshiba PB7534-1 doesn't have the goop issue.

Well I guess that isn't groundbreaking. But I bought a few extra flybacks for spares. Sweated it because turns out the monitors in the Blast is an MS2930. All good now!
 
What's more, the flyback on the right is the one that came out of the Windy II Toshiba PB7534-1. The flyback shown on the left came out of a tri-sync cab that is known to work. The are identical flybacks. Guess what chassis that flyback on the left belongs to?
Flyback_Comparison.jpg
So that basically confirms the Chinese flybacks will work on both ms2930 and ms2931 chassis right? By extension most likely the ms2933 too since it is a 'bug fixed 2931'?

Congrats on getting your PB7534 running, that's awesome!!
 
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