What's new
By:

FS Egret 2/Windy 2/NNC/Q25 (Repair refund)

For Sale
@SnakeGrunger, can you confirm the label on your flyback? Here is the label on the flyback that I am getting from Taobao from the link you posted:

MUS1FUS11_Single.jpg

It reads MUS1FUS11. The listing states that the flyback is MSU1FUS11 (the first U and S are flipped). I am hoping it is just a misprint on the label. Please post more pics of your flyback. I am hoping it is the correct flyback.
 
@acblunden2 hmm the ones I have have the correct label, but yours has sep15th 2019 datestamp on it, maybe it's just a typo the taobao seller put before shipping it out when you placed an order.

 
The seller said that my flybacks are the correct flybacks but they are mislabeled. But then again, this is a Chinese business. I am just going to grit my teeth and have them shipped over here anyway and will take it from there. UTSource parts come today. So as soon as the FB's get there, new life should be breathed back into the Windy II.
 
I sent a broken MS2930 chassis in to Sharp Image Repair and they cleaned, fully re-capped it, repaired damaged video lines, swapped the flyback and extended the neck board cables by eight inches for me so the chassis can sit in the Windy 2 metal tray without risers.

Got it back today and hooked it up. The picture has the correct brightness and great image quality! The MS2933 I had "ghetto rigged" to try out was too dim before. I know of the heater resistor fix, but supposedly this can shorten the life of tubes. Also I wanted to be able to use the manual MS2930 adjustments via the remote board since the default geometry was terrible with the MS2933 (though the OSD controls fixed things up, it would lose settings after a day or two without power).

With the MS2930 and new flyback, the horizontal image size can fill the screen fully but the vertical size isn't quite large enough even maxed out. It's definitely something I can live with, but I haven't checked to see if there is a VSIZE LIMIT pot or similar which may fix this up.

The video output right now is upside down, I think I just need to flip the vertical yoke cable the other way around - is that correct?

IwYqzgC.jpg


One other thing that is a bit scary (to me at least) is this small hole on the top of the flyback:

x8OPDOD.jpg


You guys think that should be safe as-is? I've heard some horror stories of damaged flybacks shooting lightning out from them, but so far I didn't notice anything major with the first power on.

To adapt the MS2930 chassis to connect to the Windy 2 tube, I had to do a few small things:

- I used a power drill to widen the hole on the dag cable for the neck card so it could plug in OK
- Re-terminated the degauss and horizontal yoke cables using these parts:
https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.co...-connectors/2-pin-plug-housing-2-36mm-cm1001/
https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.co...-pins-female-18-24-awg-10-pack-cm1006-cp1011/
- I left the degauss control cable disconnected for now as I'm not sure if the existing wiring is pin compatible or not (it's the three pin header shown above the degauss header in my flyback pic)

AC power cable fits fine from the original Windy 2 wiring, as does the vertical yoke cable. I matched brown on the MS2930 silkscreen to the green yoke wire and gray to the yellow yoke wire, but looks like I had this reversed.

The MS2930 mounting holes in the black plastic frame don't line up with the pre-drilled holes on the tray for the PB7534, so I will have to drill some new holes to properly secure the chassis. This should be a much more reliable solution than my previous "fix" of stacking two by fours and putting the chassis on top of that though.
 
@kuze unless there’s a dip-switch to flip the screen, yes just plug in the vertical yoke cable the other way (... while off)

No idea about that flyback hole...
 
non-conductive epoxy on that FB crack to insulate it. Electricity follows the closest path of least resistance. I know this because I just changed sparks on my truck. You don't want arching. You want the electricity to go into the tube or where ever it should go.

V.S. Limit should fix the vertical size issue. I did that on an MS9 over the weekend and it did wonders.

As for dag cable, I wouldn't drill it. Terminate a male pin that fits inside the dag cable to a short wire. Any pin will do as long as it is snug. Then crimp on a female pin to the other side that fits the dag pin. Heat shrink around the pins and you got a makeshift adapter cable. You can also solder a wire to the grounding strap. Then solder that wire to the back of the neckboard. Keep the connector OG.

The demag connector seems to be of the same series used on all Nanao monitors. I am looking for whatever that is too (if anyone knows, please post it here). It is not critical to displaying a stable image, unless the monitor needs a demag. But that can be done by jumpering a wire. I did this over the weekend too. Retrofitted an MS9 chassis to an Astro City MS8 chassis. MS8's demag connector has a few extra positions and so has to be reterminated for the MS9. I used the rat's nest of wire that came with the Yaton NNC's. Found a connector that I could use that had wire goig into both sides of the connector. Cut off the extra wire positions. Crimped on some female connectors pins on both sides. Flipped the cab on. Connected the connectors with my bare hands. After the jolt, monitor was demag'ed. Connectors kept me insulated and safe :).
 
Thanks guys! As far as I know, the three pin connector is the control for manual degauss and the two pin is the actual degauss (this runs to the coil around the tube). When you turn the MS2930 on it will automatically degauss once on power up, so manual shouldn't generally be needed.
 
1.) so how do you remove a jamma pin from a egret 2 harness?

I ask cause one of my grounds got pushed out but I pushed it back in (Pin A). I reckon you push the clip down from the front (where it gets inserted into the jamma harness) with a flat head and pull back. Never removed one before so thought I would ask. Below is a picture. Notice how the ground pins clips aren't pushed up as much as the others. Would it be a good idea to bend them downwards/upwards?

dNIVeQ0.jpg

In any case hopefully that wasn't why my Shen Jian PGM cart has glitches now.I popped in martial masters and it seems fine.When I noticed it glitching I checked the jamma edge and it was reading 5.36 volts and fluctuating. Probably due to the pot being slightly bent or that ground coming out. Grounds are linked on PGM from when I looked (E2 only has 3/4 ground connected though). PSU seems fine now but I put in my NOS Taito one just to be safe.

2.) Are there any plug and play solutions to an egret 2 PSU? I know people made custom connectors so its plug and play, but not sure if they still do. Stock PSU kinda sucks since the knob is annoying to tune. Even on lowest settings of the pot (both NOS/old official E2 psu) the voltage never goes below 5.08-5.10 for MVS/PGM. On CPS2 with that same setting it is at 4.72.
 
Last edited:
@ChuChu Flamingo are you using a step down converter to give the e2 psu 100v instead of 120v? If not, that would cause your voltage to be high even when at the lowest setting.
 
SnakeGrunger said:
@acblunden2 hmm the ones I have have the correct label, but yours has sep15th 2019 datestamp on it, maybe it's just a typo the taobao seller put before shipping it out when you placed an order.

IMG-4740.jpg
Click to expand...
@SnakeGrunger, @8bitforlife, @radiantsvgun, can anyone of you guys confirm that the replacement flybacks you got from the Taobao seller have the pin positions as indicated below? The pins arranged in a U-shape, fit perfectly. But the pins under the screen and focus pots are not aligned. Did you have to do some wire jumpering to get this to work? Because either these are not the right flybacks, or some finagling has to be done.

MUS1FUS11_Resized.jpg
 

Attachments

  • MUS1FUS11_Resized.jpg
    MUS1FUS11_Resized.jpg
    628.7 KB · Views: 722
Alrighty, will give it the good ole' college try and have an update by the weekend.

Additionally, the vertical deflection IC I pulled out of the PB7534-1 is clearly 'LA7838'. LA7837 is what I bought from UTSource. Let's hope this works. I'll hang onto LA7838 just in case. Will report back then too.

LA7838.jpg
 
We will hit 100 pages before too long, what a thread!
 
acblunden2 said:
Alrighty, will give it the good ole' college try and have an update by the weekend.

Additionally, the vertical deflection IC I pulled out of the PB7534-1 is clearly 'LA7838'. LA7837 is what I bought from UTSource. Let's hope this works. I'll hang onto LA7838 just in case. Will report back then too.
Click to expand...
https://www.electronica-pt.com/ci/LA7837-LA7838.pdf

Seems to be the same part, with the datasheet saying the 7838 can be used to deflect larger screens from 33 to 37 inches. I had based the part number on the part on my personal chassis.
Careful with pulling out / resoldering the deflector, it was in a zone most affected by capacitor leakage and alot of traces were corroded on mine.
 
I didn't have fluid leakage in that area on my chassis. There is lot of caps in that spot however. I had to pull one just to remoe the IC's screw.
 
I'm still trying to repair my psu. That supposedly was fixed. There are alot of bad bridge rectifier resistors and some diodes.
I'm on the diodes part but I have no idea how to identify them.
 

Attachments

  • 5912502991.jpg
    5912502991.jpg
    626.8 KB · Views: 183
if someone with a working windy 2 psu can read the 3 diodes that are on the board th that sits next to amp let me know the values
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top