Ill try and take a picture.I have the same isolation transformer. Curious to see your setup when it's all wired up.
Right on @KaPH33nThe problem with buying prebuilt cables is they're all like 1.5 - 3 feet long looking. I made my cables a full 6 ft length. This lets me attach to the chassis and then walk around to the front of the cab and control the TPG. I guess it's really not a big deal if you're using it solely on the bench top. How long is that cable you got? Hard to tell with it coiled up.
I would also recommend using wire nuts over quick splice connectors... especially on AC wiring. But if it's working whatever. I would also recommend putting in a fuse on the AC Live wire. Even though the chassis also has its own fuse, it's a good safety measure.
Yes I have. I found that hard to navigate.@hoagtech you can try this site if you haven’t already: http://www.therealbobroberts.net/monitor.html
It does look a lot like yours.Yes, just click until you see what you have.
I haven’t used the TPG yet so I’m in the same boat, but looks like you might need to just move the 2 pin sync connector down to the two last pins? Unless your connector is all one piece you might need to make a new harness.
I’m 99% sure this is a K7000. The reference label matches the manual. There’s also a number on the top left of that label that seems to confirm it with others.
I’ll be testing mine the same way in the next few days so let me know how you make out.
Thanks man. I figured it out based on @everten s connector missing ports as well.You only need to hook up the sync once. some monitors have the ability to use positive or negative sync. some can only accept one or the other. some need composite sync (h+v tied together). Just hook it up once and from the right type to the right pins.
These spring like fingers should be making direct contact with the dag layer on the back of the tube. That degauss coil should be placed a little differently so it's not interfering.