Well, I pulled the trigger and bought an Axunworks supergun (JAMMA only) along with a bunch of cables because I'm not sure what kind of display I'll be using in the coming years. I'm still going to install the new power supply on the MK30 and try to get it working again, but not sure if I'll keep it around.
- Thread starter Joko3
- Start date
It’s a step down transformer not a step up.
I’m guessing you supplying it 100 vac provided an output of 80 vac, unless there is a way to change the taps around to raise the voltage.
I’m thinking the psu is the culprit as well.
I’m guessing you supplying it 100 vac provided an output of 80 vac, unless there is a way to change the taps around to raise the voltage.
I’m thinking the psu is the culprit as well.
It's step-up/step-down with a switch. You can set it to use Japanese electronics in the US or US electronics in Japan. I'm just used to calling it step-up because I used to use it in the US for my Japanese Saturn. I brought it with me here so I could continue to use my Oster hair clippers.
That spark coming from the PSU last night was pretty gnarly. If I hadn't been drinking chu-hi I probably would have jumped lol. I'm really wondering if anything else was damaged in the supergun after all of this, but I guess I'll find out soon enough. I'm debating heading out to Akiba next week and buying the cheapest JAMMA game I can find for testing purposes. Kind of scared to test anything else I own...
Can somebody do a sanity check on my connections before I power it up. The order was different on this Meanwell power supply compared to the original. I believe it’s right, but I want to be sure. Thank you!
note: the black connected to COM is from the JAMMA connector board. The black with blue tape connected to L is coming from power switch (plug -> ext fuse -> switch -> power supply).
note: the black connected to COM is from the JAMMA connector board. The black with blue tape connected to L is coming from power switch (plug -> ext fuse -> switch -> power supply).
Everything looks fine to me.
There's an additional orange wire with black stripe that goes to +5V in your before pictures. You don't have that connected. I have no idea what it is for, just noticed it's missing.
There's an additional orange wire with black stripe that goes to +5V in your before pictures. You don't have that connected. I have no idea what it is for, just noticed it's missing.
Thanks for taking a look. It is much appreciated.
That orange and black wire goes to the 8-pin RGB connection. The spade connector is too big to fit on this terminal post so I’ll have to replace it with a smaller one.
One more thing is confusing me, the 115v/230v switch. It came with the red switch reading 230v, so I switched it to say 115v. However, the writing on the PCB behind that switch setting says “230V SW1”. I can’t see what the other side says because of all the white goo. I looked at pictures of Meanwell supplies on the website (last pic) and it shows 115v on the left side of the PCB, and 230v on the right (which is opposite of what is labeled on the switch). Is the label on the red indicating what it is switched to now, or what it will be if you switch in that direction? Really confused now and don’t know which position is actually 115v.
XtraSmiley
Legendary
Don't keep us in suspense man, did it work!!!!!
Do you recommend checking anything else out before giving it a go? All I want to do is plug it in and power on.
Edit: turned on, results in comment below.
The external fuse is 250v 10A. Should I keep as is or change to something else?
Won’t hook up any games yet. I want to replace my JAMMA cable (1p down has been giving me trouble with not working with all input sources) and get a cheap ass game for testing.
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No dice. As you can see in the video, it’s turning itself on and off and making a slight hissing noise. Any ideas?
https://youtube.com/shorts/xls0pTGm1TE?feature=share
Part 2, disconnected the leads going to the JAMMA board to do a power supply test only. Same problem. The hell?
Part 2, disconnected the leads going to the JAMMA board to do a power supply test only. Same problem. The hell?
XtraSmiley
Legendary
I'm no expert, but if the wiring is good, the PSU is set to the correct Japanese power, you've tried a different outlet (just in case), then based on how little is actually inside that unit, I'd have to say the encoder chip might be bad.
Again, I have no technical expertise, so please do NOT take anything I'm posting on this as gospel, but dude, it's a PSU some wires and the encoder. Your PSU is new, so what is left?
Again, I have no technical expertise, so please do NOT take anything I'm posting on this as gospel, but dude, it's a PSU some wires and the encoder. Your PSU is new, so what is left?
XtraSmiley
Legendary
Based on your second video, can you just test the PSU with a multi meter to make sure it's actually working? You are using the correct setting for Japan power right?
It came with 230v visible on the switch, which is odd because it came from digikey in the US. Flipped it to 115v and then got confused (see earlier comment on this page) because of what was written on the PCB.
Tried a different outlet, no luck.
Are L and N hooked up right? I was under the impression that L would go to the fuse, then switch them over to the PSU.
How can I test with the meter? Please pretend I’m like 5 years old lol.
Also, I don’t think this matters as I used one before it stopped working, but I have to use an adapter on the power plug so it can go into the socket. Grounded outlets aren’t a thing in Japan except for your AC and microwave. Everything else is two prong.
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Stupid Dufus
Grand Master
This hiss sound you hear might be something kind of common with some of the Meanwell power supplies. If the load isn't high enough it makes that sound. In this case, if you don't have a board connected (or one with a high enough draw) you'll get the sound. When using with my Capcom IO I get the same noise, but CPS2, TGM1 and 2 have a high enough draw that the PSU doesn't make the sound.
As for testing with a multimeter, with the PSU plugged in and powered on, place one probe on the 5v terminal and another on the ground. See what the multimeter reads.
As for testing with a multimeter, with the PSU plugged in and powered on, place one probe on the 5v terminal and another on the ground. See what the multimeter reads.
XtraSmiley
Legendary
Yeah, what ^ he said. I didn't realize you don't have a game hooked up. I have no idea how a MW PSU works, but Mike says to never power the HAS supergun without a PCB. I'm assuming it could damage the HAS, but it could also be that without a draw the PSU might do weird things.
If you have a MM test the PSU, and if not, plug in a cheap board and see what happens with actual draw on your PSU.
If you have a MM test the PSU, and if not, plug in a cheap board and see what happens with actual draw on your PSU.
CPS1 working via component video. Going to hook up that 5v lead from the 8 pin din next to test out that.
I also tested that CADs bootleg board without the shit pass through adapter (I removed the key from my harness). I got sound on it, but couldn’t get video to sync on OSSC. No CRT here to test another way.
I’ll post more updates as they come along. Thanks for the help everyone!!! It is truly appreciated!
https://youtube.com/shorts/WNTS-YM3SNc?feature=share
RGB working as well. Next up I need to hook up the voltage control knob to the PSU.
Sometimes when flip the power switch on the supergun I feel some electricity, like a ridiculous light static shock. What’s up with that?
Seemed to have fixed the issue with P1 down by unplugging and plugging back in the ribbon cable from the DB15 board. We’ll see if it comes back or not.
In any case, I have a mountain of homework I should be doing (I’m in my final semester), so I’ll put everything away for now. I can probably mess with it again next weekend after I finish my next couple of big papers.
RGB working as well. Next up I need to hook up the voltage control knob to the PSU.
Sometimes when flip the power switch on the supergun I feel some electricity, like a ridiculous light static shock. What’s up with that?
Seemed to have fixed the issue with P1 down by unplugging and plugging back in the ribbon cable from the DB15 board. We’ll see if it comes back or not.
In any case, I have a mountain of homework I should be doing (I’m in my final semester), so I’ll put everything away for now. I can probably mess with it again next weekend after I finish my next couple of big papers.
What I meant was the outside fuse should be 0.5A smaller than the inside fuse. The outside fuse should blow before the inside one. If the inside fuse keeps blowing before the outside one then the outside fuse is redundant.
I understand now. Should I go like a 250v 3.5 or 3amp on the outside then? May have to get a different holder. The one it has now is for the longer fuses.
