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MK30 ADCAP Supergun BROKEN, Help Requested Please

Joko3 said:
I understand now. Should I go like a 250v 3.5 or 3amp on the outside then? May have to get a different holder. The one it has now is for the longer fuses.
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Yes, if the inside is 4A, make the outside 3.5A. There are fuses of all sizes for each rating, just grab the length you need, no need to change the holder.
 
XianXi said:
Yes, if the inside is 4A, make the outside 3.5A. There are fuses of all sizes for each rating, just grab the length you need, no need to change the holder.
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Thanks for the input. I will order one tonight : )

Any idea why I get a small shock from the power switch itself sometimes? Anything I can do to safeguard against it?
 
Joko3 said:
Thanks for the input. I will order one tonight : )

Any idea why I get a small shock from the power switch itself sometimes? Anything I can do to safeguard against it?
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Usually by tying logic ground to field ground aka earth but I think you said this is only a 2 prong system so I’m not sure.
 
Joko3 said:
It came with 230v visible on the switch, which is odd because it came from digikey in the US.
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Mean Well is Chinese and China is 220V. It's not like you're going to blow the thing if you plug it in 120V when it's set to 230V. 230V is the 'safe setting'.


XianXi said:
Usually by tying logic ground to field ground aka earth but I think you said this is only a 2 prong system so I’m not sure.
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I don't see why that's specifically needed. However, Earth ground should be connected, because otherwise yes, you might get shocked as the enclosure is metal.
 
nem said:
I don't see why that's specifically needed. However, Earth ground should be connected, because otherwise yes, you might get shocked as the enclosure is metal.
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Sucks for me, grounding isn’t an option lol. One of my biggest shocks moving here was discovering how few grounded outlets there are. My house has two, which are both located up high next to the AC units. Hell, even the damn refrigerator is two prong. Blows my mind.
 
Refrigerators are mostly plastic these days. Any metal parts in contact with electrical components are at the back, away from hands.

You could try insulating the PSU from the enclosure and ungrounding it. That's what's done in Japanese 2-prong cabs. I guess the PSU is leaking some electricity to the enclosure and whenever you touch it, the electricity will flow through you.
 
Luckily there's a lot of room to play within the case to figure out a better way to mount the power supply.
 
nem said:
I don't see why that's specifically needed. However, Earth ground should be connected, because otherwise yes, you might get shocked as the enclosure is metal.
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It gets rid of the interference/noise on screen.
 
I found some really long (10m) grounding cables on Amazon Japan. I'm going to run one from the extra AC outlet over to where the supergun is and plug it into the ground wire on the three-prong to the two-prong adapter. They are like 600 yen so it's worth a try.

https://www.amazon.co.jp/-/en/ELPA-Earth-Cord-32-8-KV-1210H/dp/B0027WYRQ2/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=アース線&qid=1623914665&sr=8-5

Just in case anybody is wondering what the grounded outlets look like here.
00851fcb9026408b3ef459fa79fd2c80a58dae4a.jpeg
 
Last edited:
check those output wires.
yellow is usually used for +12v and blue or white for -5v
 
stj said:
check those output wires.
yellow is usually used for +12v and blue or white for -5v
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The way it's hooked up to the PCB is how it was from the start when I first opened it. The only ends I touched were on the power supply side, so I just matched them up to what was labeled on the PCB side.
 
stj said:
check those output wires.
yellow is usually used for +12v and blue or white for -5v
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How he has it wired now is 100% correct (the outputs match the inputs). Making assumptions is how you make mistakes.
 
Just an update on this. I got the power supply mounted in there and the potentiometer wired up. 9 times out of 10 this thing fires up with no issues. Once in a while, I have to unplug and replug in the JAMMA harness because one of the colors isn't working or the down button on 1 player side isn't working. I'm not sure if this is an issue on the JAMMA connection on the supergun side or what. I don't have another harness at the moment to test.
 
Check the wiring on the JAMMA harness, in particular the RGB lines and the P1 Down. Make sure the wires are snug on there and use your multimeter to check continuity is strong. Also give the JAMMA connector a nice clean out with Isopropyl while you’re there :)
 
That looks very useful. The supergun came with a Bob Roberts harness which has labels on the female end, but nothing on the male end. There's a black epoxy all over the connections on the male end as well so I couldn't change anything there even if I wanted to.

Edit: the pic below shows it pretty well
 

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Some good news. It is indeed a problem with the harness and not the supergun. I tried out the Bob Roberts harness on my Axunworks supergun and encountered the same problem with down. See below. No color issues, but that only happened to me twice compared to the 'down' issue which has been frequent this year.

View: https://youtu.be/2nvGjaiPcto
 
Did the same test with the CPS3 as well. No issues with the Axunworks harness, and then the 'down' problem with the Bob Roberts. Just wanted to confirm the problem carries over when switching boards. I will update after looking into the harness. Thanks for the help everyone.
 
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