What's new

MiSTerAddons MiSTercade - MiSTer for JAMMA cabinets

I'm waiting on the quote from the factory. Hopefully July/August but I can do a pre-order again, though I prefer to wait until units are on-hand :)

Happy to preorder, but I'm on the email notification list, so hopefully I can snag one before they're out of stock again!
 
I’ve just received one of these excellent boards, thank you @misteraddons !

I have a couple of questions / comments:

The screws seem loose at the bottom of the mounts for the base. Should there be some washers or spacers I’m missing?

Every time I turn on my arcade machine, controls won’t register or work. I need to reset to get them to work. If I move the joystick on start-up, it works 7/10 times. I don’t have any other controllers plugged in and BT switched off.

PSX games appear very dark, almost like dark colours are crushed into black. I don’t see this on other cores. Is there an adjustment I can make somewhere to enable full colour range? My arcade monitor is set with quite high brightness, my other cores look fine.

Can I run the mistercade via 5v adapter on the de-10 nano if I want to use the system with a TV?

Many thanks!
 
Not by design. He ran out of time and shipped. He offered partial refunds.
I switched to shorter screws part way through shipping orders :)
PSX games appear very dark, almost like dark colours are crushed into black. I don’t see this on other cores. Is there an adjustment I can make somewhere to enable full colour range? My arcade monitor is set with quite high brightness, my other cores look fine.

Can I run the mistercade via 5v adapter on the de-10 nano if I want to use the system with a TV?
Awesome! Email me using my site's contact page regarding the controls issue.
I haven't noticed the PSX core being dark. PSX does use 24-bit RGB vs 18-bit RGB on the MiSTercade and other IO boards. That shouldn't affect brightness though, but may result in color banding on the PSX core.
You can run mistercade using the 5V jack on the DE10-nano, you just won't have amplified audio.
 
Every time I turn on my arcade machine, controls won’t register or work. I need to reset to get them to work. If I move the joystick on start-up, it works 7/10 times. I don’t have any other controllers plugged in and BT switched off.

This has been and remains my experience as well. I hope the root cause and resolution is made public for everyone to reference in the future, myself included. Otherwise I have zero issues with this device.
 
Every time I turn on my arcade machine, controls won’t register or work. I need to reset to get them to work. If I move the joystick on start-up, it works 7/10 times. I don’t have any other controllers plugged in and BT switched off.

That's a MiSTer thing - when it's powered on or reset no controls are active - it waits to receive an input from any attached controllers. The first control signal it receives assigns that controller as Player 1, and only after controller assignments will it respond to controls. That's why moving your joystick after startup gets it working - the joystick triggers MiSTer to assign that controller as Player 1. I'm guessing that the times it didn't work that you may have pushed another input somewhere else (Player 2 side perhaps?) that caused MiSTer to assign that side as Player 1 instead.

We discuss this further here:
https://www.arcade-projects.com/thr...e-mister-for-jamma-cabinets.19382/post-325835
 
I can't speak for OP but in my case it definitely is not caused by player 2 input or anything like that. For me it happens frequently upon initial startup as well as using the Reset button on the device itself to reboot the Mistercade. It's not a matter of accidental reassignment of controls. When the controls are unresponsive for me, in every case neither side works. Only the keyboard and on board buttons operate when this occurs. The only action which helps to "reset" this behavior is a full shutdown of the cabinet followed by ejection and reinsertion of the SD card. Not an ideal workaround so I'm still interested in learning how this happens and what to do to avoid this from happening.
 
I got my MisterCade up and running but the sound is giving me fits. I’ve narrowed it down where for some reason the sound wasn’t working when the MisterCade was connected to the RiddleTV switcher. But here’s the kicker. I connect the MC directly to the Jamma connector and sound starts working. So then I put the MC back on the switcher slot 1 with no other cards and viola the sound is still working. Problem is the next day I power up after not touching anything and the sound isn’t working again. I connect the MC direct and sound starts working. I move the MC back to the switcher and now it’s working again. It’s driving me crazy. I really need it working in the switcher. Why does the BitKit and an original Pac-Man board have no sound issues with the switcher but the MisterCade is so finicky? The power supply is a brand new Suzo Happ supply from arcade shop. The only thing I’ve found that doesn’t seem right is the -5v output is only measuring -4.2v. But the adjustment knobs affects all 3 voltages So I’d have to make the +5v and +12v higher to bump it up any.
 
Just powered up the cab again today with the MisterCade in the switcher and sound wasn’t working. I reached in and made a tiny turn on the power supply and sound started working. So what does the sound circuit shut off below 12v?
 
@Gilrock it doesn't need -5v so that's okay. What does it do with 5v instead of 12v? There's a switch for it on the MC.

I don’t have that jumper I’ve got the original v1 board. Couldn’t get sound going today at all. So which voltage does the v1 board care about? I measured and my +5v was right on the money but my +12v line is varying quite a bit under load. I was only measuring 9.75v and if I power it up without any boards its 12v. I can adjust it higher but to get it to 11.5v under load I end up with +5.6v on the +5v line. Not really liking this power supply with multiple voltage outputs That can’t be set individually.
 
@Gilrock either recap it or get a new PSU with adjustable separate voltages. But imo as you said yourself it sucks that there's one dial for multiple voltages, I'd get rid of it personally and buy a proper one. Usually adjustable 5v and optionally 3.3v is all you need.
 
Back
Top