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trashedcabs

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Long story before I start, feel free to skip!

In 2014 I bought two crappy wooden US-model MT2 cabs for about $700 shipped from California to the east coast. The seller knowingly lied to me about the condition and they arrived in horrible shape. I spent 2 years and thousands of dollars converting them to run 3DX+ and restoring every inch of the cabinets. At the time, 3DX+ was still being played in Asia, so parts were expensive. The official manuals online were incomplete (no wiring diagrams) and there was no information available online about the conversion process.

In the end, the cabs were perfect. New old stock Kortek KT-2914DF and a no-burn D9400. NOS MT3 art set on both with repro 3DX+ marquees I made, paint touch-ups on the whole cab, fresh white T-molding, LEDs all around. Two brand new shifters from Namco when they were selling them on closeout for $100 each. They were truly amazing to play on.

I had them placed at a business partner's arcade for a while. Around late 2016, the business ran into some serious issues and I was worried they would not survive. I lived with my parents at the time, so when I took the cabinets home they were not very happy and I felt forced to sell at a loss. I regretted it ever since.

Many years later, I had some shared workshop space and wanted to see if I could find them and buy them back. I got in touch with the person I sold them to and was able to track them down to a barcade in North Carolina. I talked to their technician and sadly he informed me the cabinets were thrown away. Even though I expected it, it was heartbreaking to hear.

Since then, the old non-HD wangans have been getting increasingly difficult to find. I always wanted the Japan/Asia cabinets as they're entirely folded steel and massively better quality than the wooden junk we got in the US, but distributors in Japan simply don't have them anymore. You can get them from China, but the price is too high; many have been thrown away, or converted into other games. Parts are now harder to find as well.

I managed to get an incredible deal on this pair from a seller in Canada, who previously got them from CHQ in Burnaby BC. One was sold as working, the other as a project cabinet. We also got 5 OK Baby candy cabs... but those are a project for a different time.

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As you'd expect, they are fairly dirty and need a full refresh. I did power on the "working" cabinet and confirmed everything worked. Normally I don't power on my projects until they've been fully disassembled and looked over, but the peanut gallery in the shop that day wanted me to power up the project cab to see what happened. The monitor stayed on but other things shut off and there was a nice electrical smell. Very cool. It's probably going to be a while before I power them up again anyway.

First task was to disassemble and vacuum, and blast all the crap out with an air compressor.

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Someone tried very hard to break into one of the coin doors. We'll see what a hammer and some wood can do to fix it.

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I tried to regrain the stainless floor panels under the seat since I had to clean them anyway. It came out OK, a bit streaky. I might redo this eventually. I've never had amazing success with doing this.

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Anyway, I'll be working on this all through the end of the year. See you next time!
 
Very interesting as these japanese cabs are very different than my (export/us) 4, especially the screen/top part, which for me is all wood and for you appears to be plastic?
what's under the topper / on top of the screen? how is that holding?!

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Very interesting as these japanese cabs are very different than my (export/us) 4, especially the screen/top part, which for me is all wood and for you appears to be plastic?
what's under the topper / on top of the screen? how is that holding?!

The entire topper assembly is metal and it bolts into the side plastics. The top of the monitor then bolts to the topper, and extra rigidity is added when the rear monitor box cover is bolted to the sides as well. There are two pieces of folded steel which the bezel bolts into, called the "top arm" (part #710-855) and "bottom arm" (part #710-856). Unfortunately, one of the cabs is missing both of these--once Christmas is over I will get in touch with the seller and see if he still has them kicking around in storage somewhere.
 
I've been mostly tackling cleaning and whatever I can do while I hunt down parts.

I went through both of the marquee boxes and cleaned them out, replaced the fixtures with my favorite LED ones, polished the acrylic and stainless, and threw a few coats of white paint and clear on the very yellowed marquee holders. The cable trays also had failing paint so I quickly scuffed them and put some rust reformer on to clean them up. The marquees themselves are quite faded towards the bottom, but I have a high-res scan I made quite a long time ago which I'll be printing to replace them.

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The seat sliders kept sticking so I disassembled them and lubed the tracks. One of the latching tracks had all the rivets popped off and had a bodge fix with a nut and bolt in place. I put some new rivets in. The adjustment handles were rusted, so I sanded the rust off and dipped them using plastidip tool rubber dip--came out pretty good I think.

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I wanted to start cleaning all the cigarette grime out of the base of the cabinets, but sadly it's been freezing and raining every day this week. The rain let up for an hour so I tackled cleaning out one of them, and of course it started raining again as soon as I was finished. I'll be doing the second cab today. Super clean at 5:1 dilution makes very quick work of cigarette grime with little to no scrubbing. It's nasty stuff so wear gloves, but we have used it on some truly horrible candy cabs and monitors with incredible fast results. Here's a before and after, and a shot of the cabinet tilted to drain the water out.

Also, I wire wheeled off some of the bad rust spots and threw on some rust reformer, just for posterity. I do plan on touching up the paint, but I need to wait for the local auto paint store to reopen after the holidays so I can have them match the dark gray color of the cabinet base.

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Found this fan in the bottom. I don't think it's gonna be moving much air with only 3 blades! Ordered new ones for both cabs.

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I did also test the power supplies and ensure everything worked. Both card readers, JVS IOs, and drive boards work. The one monitor I received is a Sanwa PFX. which I'll be swapping out for a 29ES31 chassis I got off ebay for cheap recently. The PFX will eventually go in my OK Baby that's missing a monitor. Also, I've been on the hunt for flat consumer TVs to tube swap, but almost nothing is available locally at the moment.

Anyway, that's all for now. Today I plan on cleaning the other cabinet, plastic welding a crack in one of the seat plastics, and trying once again to hammer out the smashed in coin door.
 
Today I cleaned out the bottom of the second cabinet. This one wasn't nearly as dirty as the first.

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Spent about two hours hammering the coin bin door. It opens and closes once again! These doors are double-ply, very thick steel and cannot be bent easily. Whoever tried to break in also bent the frame and popped the rivets off it, which turned out to be a bigger challenge as everything is riveted together and not easily removeable. I ended up using a bigger sledgehammer like a slide hammer, pulling the frame back into place. I was able to get them close enough so they could be riveted back together with reasonably good fitment. The hinge also required a lot of
reshaping to get it to swivel smoothly.

The two extra rivets are because the spot welds holding the outer "ply" to the inner door were detached in those spots, so I clamped the two pieces together and put some rivets through at the same spot

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I also bought two Sanwa 29E31S chassis off a seller on ebay for very cheap, with the intention of piecing together some basic 31khz-only monitors since monitor availability is so slim locally, and I need the PFX for another cabinet that demands trisync. The seller wrapped the entire box in 15 cent stamps from the 80s and scribbled a note citing the postal service rulebook on it... very odd. Opened it and of course the seller dumped the chassis bare in a pile of packing peanuts which got absolutely everywhere. Crazy stuff, but both chassis worked just fine, so I can't complain too much. I ordered two more and he gave me a buy one get one free deal, completely unprovoked. Nice!

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Tomorrow I'm planning to re-brush the rest of the stainless, and hit up a local auto paint store to get a couple color matched cans of the dark gray so I can start touch ups. I hate paint work, so I wanna get that out of the way sooner rather than later.
 
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So where is the subwoofer in these seats?!
They're not in the seats, they're in the back portion of the cabinet above the pedals. They sound great and put out a ton of volume for being 5 1/4" drivers.

Today I tried the regraining process again using a different process. Belt sander with 120 grit making fast, long passes until it was fairly even, then removing any streaks by hand with 150 grit on a sanding block. If there were still streaks, I moved up to 220 grit, and finished it off with some Mother's mag and aluminum polish. It turned out way better than I was expecting.

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I did also start working on filling and sanding out the cigarette burn marks on the dashboard plastics, but I didn't get time to finish before being pulled away to help out around our shop. I'm hoping to get that finished up tomorrow along with rebuilding the pedals and finally getting to the paint shop to pick up a can of touch up paint for the cab body.

The seller was able to locate some of the missing bezel brackets, and I was able to purchase some matching yokes for the 29E31S chassis. Now I just need two nice flat tubes and cap kits and it'll be time for setup on those.
 
The seller wrapped the entire box in 15 cent stamps from the 80s and scribbled a note citing the postal service rulebook on it...

That's amazing.

The marquees themselves are quite faded towards the bottom, but I have a high-res scan I made quite a long time ago which I'll be printing to replace them.

3DX+? Let me know if you ever want to share that scan!
 
Later this week I'll be going through the scan to clean up a few errors I noticed before I get it printed, but I'll definitely share it. I do also plan to scan the side art and seat art. Both cabs have official art in reasonably good condition, but it's applied horribly with giant bubbles everywhere, so I want to reapply them. I also have a full set of US cab MT1 art I scanned that I can share.

I haven't gotten too much time to work on this. We are in the process of moving from our old warehouse to this new, much larger one. Yesterday I did manage to get both of the pedals refreshed. They both felt smooth, so I just added a small amount of extra grease and didn't do too much mechanically.

One of the pedal plates was very bent and had almost all the rivets popped out. A few smacks from a mallet made quick work of that, and new rivets were installed to make it permanent.

It started very scratched, dirty, and tired...
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Time to give it some fresh grain and a polish...

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Very shiny :)

I did get to the paint store, but unfortunately they were closing early and weren't mixing any more paint that day. I did convince them to let me take a look at their swatch book, and found a nearly perfect match. Valspar Automotive 18S5029

EDIT: Paint code incorrect. Too bright. Matched by paint shop to

Ford F150 JMTAWHA Lead Foot Gray​



Besides that, I got new fans for the rear under the seats, and placed an order for all new hardware for the exterior screws. Besides waiting for the paint store to reopen, I'm mostly waiting for parts to show up at the moment. I need to get on Taobao and see what parts are available--I'd really like new wheels, shifter bezels, side plastics, and a few other things.
 
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Welp, the paint on the marquee holders fell off, and underneath the plastic melted. Not sure what happened, but it must have been some sort of chemical reaction. Safe to say those parts are ruined and I'm looking for new ones. If you happen to have them, let me know.

These guys:

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I did manage to source a bunch of brand new parts from China, so I'm going to check Xianyu and see if there are any.
 
"and threw a few coats of white paint and clear on the very yellowed marquee holders."

For the records, what paint and clear did you use? (so we can avoid them in the future)
 
I used whatever I had extra in my garage, which maybe wasn't a good idea. I used some adhesion promoter, rustoleum 2x white primer, a couple coats of Krylon white enamel, then some Krylon gloss acrylic clear. I talked to someone who does automotive restorations professionally and he advised me to sand it all down and try again, using specific plastic primer over the adhesion promoter and waiting a long time for each type of paint to flash off. It's gonna be a lot of sanding, but they are at least saveable.

Unfortunately, there's not much else for good news. I finally got to the paint store and had them mix some spray cans with the matching color code from the book. It was the right hue, but about 2 shades too bright. I'm going to have to leave a part with them and have them do a custom mix to make sure it's right next time. I've also been buying lots of parts from Taobao, but no seller seems to have the right steering wheels. They are all missing the grooves for the thumbs. I bought a few wheels from one seller which claimed to have the right wheels, but they ended up sending me generics without the grooves. The wheels I received with the cabinets are fairly worn, so I might just have to live with the generics that aren't quite right for now.

It's also been a total drought for CRT listings in my area. All sellers with 27" flat TVs which have compatible tubes for the chassis I have either want $200+ for their junk, or they simply don't reply. Very frustrating.

I did get a couple things done, namely replacing the seat speakers with my favorite Infinity drivers, and cleaning the dashboard buttons.

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I'm still working on the dashboards. Not quite ready to show yet but the cigarette burns are looking WAY better. I ordered a can of Spraymax 2K Matte clear which should make it really resilient when it's done.
 
Finally, some progress!

The chassis repair pile has been growing...

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I bought some yokes so I was finally able to test the Sanwa chassis I got from the eBay Stamp Man.

  • Chassis 1: Worked for a little while, then the screen shook and the HOT blew. I happened to have a replacement on hand and sadly changing it out didn't fix it. R456 is open (in power circuit for H deflection transformer). I replaced it, but haven't had time to test it again.
  • Chassis 2: Had a TON of bad solder joints. I cleaned them up and powered it on--works great!
  • Chassis 3: Shutdown. Dirty and I see a few bulging caps, but I'll look at it later.
  • Chassis 4: Working, but the flyback made a terrible whining and it shut off after a few seconds. Swapped the flyback and the problem was solved. The swapped flyback made a whining which was resolved by doing caps.

I like these chassis, they are easy to rebuild and have schematics available--albeit low-quality. Let's get these things recapped. The cap kits are big and time consuming, but you gotta replace the junk Jianghai caps it comes with.

I did also treat myself recently to a second-hand Pace dual handpiece station to make big jobs less time consuming. It was a long overdue upgrade from the cheap gear I've been using since I started into the hobby. Next on the list is to upgrade my ultrasonic cleaner.

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Cap kit complete. I also swapped the dumb mate-n-lok video connector for a standard VGA one, and I added the additional V-sync wire to the 3 pin header. Time to reassemble and fire it up.


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After a month of checking all the local classifieds every day and being frustrated by the flood of sellers demanding $250 for their "rare retro gaming" 13" walmart TVs, I finally managed to pick up a 27" Toshiba 27AFX54 with an LG A68QCU770X tube inside for $60. Gave it a quick wipe down and bolted it up to a frame with one of the yokes I purchased.

All the secondary voltages are spot on. The contrast pot wasn't working, and it was jumping all over the place no matter how much contact cleaner I applied. I grabbed a pot from a scrap board and we were golden, so now it's time to get it set up.

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This is the best I could get it using a LOT of magnets. I realize now that the curved 29E31S yoke is different from the 29PF31 yoke, despite the chassis being identical. I have a flat yoke lined up for purchase, which should resolve my issues.

Speaking of yokes, I ended up taking the PFX chassis that came with the cab out and setting it up with another E31S yoke on a spare curved tube. This will eventually go in my OK Baby project cab. I moved the PFX yoke to another consumer donor--a Philips 27PT9007D with a Samsung A68QFN893X. The yoke fit right up and gave excellent convergence and purity without much messing around. I recapped E31S chassis 4, added another VGA plug, and finally it was time to get them in the cabs.

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Lovely image.

And now we have two burn-free, freshly serviced monitors in the cabs. :)

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We had them on for a weekend event at our shop. You may notice a 3D printed front speaker box I prototyped--those are being reprinted with a slimmer profile to better fit between the sides and monitor. They house 3" drivers and sound excellent.
 
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I also serviced the computers. I've owned probably 15 of these things over the years and can tell you that failures are almost always due to GPU cooking itself, motherboard VRM capacitors (cap plague era motherboards), or hard drive dying. These things have a reputation for dying, but you have to remember that these are 99% off the shelf computers with a slightly modified MSI motherboard and a mini Linux boot environment duct taped on to the BIOS. There is no arcade magic here.

Someone tried to recap the video cards and did a hilarious job using a mix of Chinese caps. Of course, the fans died and they used hot glue, and instead of crimping connectors they simply ran it off the PC power supply with a splitter. Let's get this cleaned up. One of the cards was also marked "BAD" on the back, and exhibited odd graphical artifacting. One of the Teapo caps they swapped in had completely failed and two others were testing way out of spec. Whoever did the "repairs" also was not able to properly solder them through the vias, and instead simply tacked them on top.

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Replaced with some fresh Panasonics and the problem was solved. I only have caps on hand that have way higher voltage ratings, but it's fine since there is no card in the neighboring slot. There was also little to no paste on either GPU.

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The power supply fans made awful noises so I swapped them out for some new ones.

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Bulged out VRM caps got changed out for fresh ones. The early motherboards (NVIDIA logo silkscreened) use the infamous OST brand caps which like to explode. The later ones (System N2 text silkscreened) use Nichicons and don't usually have issues.

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The second PC I got was one of the newer revisions--it had bad RAM and a video card with a core VRM MOSFET short. I swapped in a spare and put the old GPU in the "eventually fix" pile.

I do plan on moving the game off the factory hard drive and on to a CF card for reliability reasons. The security on the N2 is pretty intense (it was developed by Nvidia), but this can be worked around. Not sure what's allowed to be said on AP though, even though it is a 14 year old game that's known for reliability issues and has been bootlegged in China for over a decade.

After linking the games, I did find that one motherboard has a flaky ethernet jack. It needs to be seated exactly right in order for link to be established, so that will need to be addressed eventually.
 
Been working on the rest of our fleet but made some progress since these are going to an event next week. I was missing the upper bezel mount and couldn't find any for sale. I modeled it and printed some, then used some black foam board I had handy to fill the gap. At some point, I will replace the foam board with some plastic cut in the exact shape so it's a bit more seamless.

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I was also missing the little motor cover piece, so I modeled and printed that in two pieces since my printer isn't big enough to print the whole thing in one go. Good enough until I find an original, or get my model printed in one piece.

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The speaker boxes have also been redone. I edited this model to build the sides in to allow the size shrunk down slightly to fit between the monitor and the side plastics, and I also built in the mounting brackets so they're more convenient to install. For the open side, I just used a plastic sheet I found at the hardware store and sealed with with silicone. I used these shielded 3" drivers which sound fantastic in combination with the factory woofer and upgraded rear coaxials. https://www.parts-express.com/HiVi-B3S-3-Shielded-Aluminum-Driver-Square-Frame-297-427?quantity=1

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Both of the test button panels and one of the rear power panels were quite rusted, so I left them in evaporust overnight.

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I decided to try out a "cold galvanizing" zinc spray. It's really just a high-zinc spraypaint that leaves a look similar to galvanizing with moderate protection. I think the result is quite nice and will give perfectly acceptable protection for the use mild use case it will be in.

I also remade and applied some fresh stickers.

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The dashboards are ready to install, so I should have a nice complete log of what was done on those once my washers arrive tomorrow and I can show them installed on the cabs.
 
The dashboards were a bit of a process and I should have taken more pictures, but it's tough when you've got a lot going on and are trying to focus. They were very scratched up from people putting phones, keys etc on the top of them. Also, there were a few cracks, cigarette burns, and missing chunks which needed to be repaired.

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This is the worst side and gives a good representation of the overall condition. I started by cleaning it, then plastic welding the cracks and pushing in some staples with a soldering iron to give additional support. I then covered it with epoxy. Not pretty, but it's rock solid.

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All the cigarette burns got sanded down with a block. I wanted to avoid flattening out the surrounding plastic texture, so I took my time and concentrated on the high spots. Once they were flat, I spread on some body filler to get the low points evened out. It looks more evenly sanded in this but trust me it's more focused on the high spots.

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The really bad, long bubbly burn required a lot of attention. I'm not that good with filler, so it required a couple tries to get it ok. I faded the filler in with the surrounding surface by using a soft block and some 320 grit.

There was a chunk missing from one of the screw holes. I used a dremel to cut a scrap of ABS in the correct shape, then taped it from the front and filled the back with epoxy. I let it cure, then plastic welded the front and "filled" it with epoxy. I let it cure again and then sanded it down to try and blend it in. I didn't sand it enough, but no worries--a large fender washer will be covering most of it anyway.

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I painted the whole dash with SEM Color Coat in Landau Black. Initially, I was planning to use it on its own without any top coat, so I picked this interior trim paint for its high abrasion resistance.

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It's ok, but I think I probably sanded away too much of the texture from blending in the filler; the glossiness was inconsistent. I wasn't too happy with the long damaged spot so I went back and sanded it again, then filled and sanded and coated it again. I also realized that since people at conventions etc will be handling this, there is a high chance someone will put freshly-sanitized hands on it and melt away the paint. I bought a can of Spraymax 2K Matte Clear to even out the gloss, hide imperfections, and protect it from solvents. This stuff is genuinely hazardous, but it's the only true pro-quality clear coat with hardener you can buy in a can.

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...and it came out amazing.

The finish is a little different from the semi-gloss ABS that was used from factory, but I think I actually prefer it. It looks more like the material used on a real car dashboard. I did remake the epilepsy warning sticker, but haven't had a chance to print and apply it yet.
 
These went to their first show a couple weeks ago. I think it's the first time they've been in public since 2019.

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I asked a friend to remake the seizure warning and card insert stickers. I love reproducing artwork, but I'm so short on time these days that I needed to recruit some help. I did also manage to print out a new Namco logo for the cab which had it scratched off. For both of these, I printed them on vinyl sticker paper, laminated it, and then cut it with the Cameo. I will upload a printable PDF of the stickers once I find time to tidy it up.

You can also see a part on the door I repainted where I rubbed through polishing it. Oops. I will fix that up with a small brush and some touch up paint.

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A huge thank you to @MegaIndo for supplying two brand new sets of marquee sign holders!! They seem to have a good stock of parts for this game, so definitely get in touch with them if you are looking for anything. I will be buying more from them in the coming months.

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The marquees themselves are pretty faded towards the bottom. If I can get some time this week, I'd like to finish cleaning up the scan and send it off for print.

Also, I am looking for another Sanwa PFX or 29PF31 flat yoke. Please send me a DM if you have one!
 
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