I guess I need a JNX Atlas adapter. I think that in conjunction with the adapter above + an adapter to go from high level to low level would work.
Blast City / Astro City / Astro City 2 / NNC - Restorations
- Thread starter Segafan1985
- Start date
Hackcell
Grand Master
Due to space constraints inside a Blast, and if you want to discard the amp inside the PSU, I'd go after the 838-13616, which is a NUC audio amp.
@Hackcell how would I power it? I see there is a 4 pin connector (CN3) . I have this same amp in my NNC I believe and I really like how it has the RCA in and sub out on it.
I found this online -> https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/410895/what-is-this-connector
Hackcell
Grand Master
@Hackcell how would I power it? I see there is a 4 pin connector (CN3) . I have this same amp in my NNC I believe and I really like how it has the RCA in and sub out on it.
I found this online -> https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/410895/what-is-this-connector
You'll need a 560-5407 trafo.
I don't know what the end goal is for your cabinets, but with the amount of adapters you will end up requiring to play Dreamcast with added subwoofers etc, it may be better to buy the tools to make custom looms yourself. It's not that hard to make them if you have good tools, correct pins/housings and the schematics at hand. It's somewhat satisfying to make looms for myself, but I wouldn't want to do it everyday though!
I've inherited old looms and have also parted out a few cabs, and this is one of the looms I use to get sound out from one of my Model 3 stacks in combination with the original mixers to play games like SpikeOut, VF3 doesn't need any mixers though. I think the below loom is from a Daytona USA cab, but I may have swapped around the pins in the connector housing, I can't remember exactly as it's been a long time. The RCA looms may also be in Sega Rally cabinets too.
If I want very loud I just use the RCA loom in combination with a headphone amp and some decent headphones.
I've inherited old looms and have also parted out a few cabs, and this is one of the looms I use to get sound out from one of my Model 3 stacks in combination with the original mixers to play games like SpikeOut, VF3 doesn't need any mixers though. I think the below loom is from a Daytona USA cab, but I may have swapped around the pins in the connector housing, I can't remember exactly as it's been a long time. The RCA looms may also be in Sega Rally cabinets too.
If I want very loud I just use the RCA loom in combination with a headphone amp and some decent headphones.
So my goal was to get a sub working with my Blast City \ VF3 - but my Dreamcast is in my NNC and I think the amp in there will work fine for that.I don't know what the end goal is for your cabinets, but with the amount of adapters you will end up requiring to play Dreamcast with added subwoofers etc, it may be better to buy the tools to make custom looms yourself. It's not that hard to make them if you have good tools, correct pins/housings and the schematics at hand. It's somewhat satisfying to make looms for myself, but I wouldn't want to do it everyday though!
I've inherited old looms and have also parted out a few cabs, and this is one of the looms I use to get sound out from one of my Model 3 stacks in combination with the original mixers to play games like SpikeOut, VF3 doesn't need any mixers though. I think the below loom is from a Daytona USA cab, but I may have swapped around the pins in the connector housing, I can't remember exactly as it's been a long time. The RCA looms may also be in Sega Rally cabinets too.
If I want very loud I just use the RCA loom in combination with a headphone amp and some decent headphones.
But I am interested in a solution for VF3 \ my Blast City. So does that adapter in your pic go out from the filter board of VF3?
Yes, it connects to CN7 or CN8 on M3 filter board.
If it was me, I'd just make a small loom which Connects to CN7 and then splits off into RCA and a JST NH header so you can plug the original Model 3 sound cable into it. Then you are free to use whatever sub you like using the RCA jacks, something like a small active subwoofer used with PC's would be ideal.
I think you are over complicating things by adding a multitude of arcade amps and power supplies, but that's just me.
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I use a JST NH cable similar to that to record the sound when I capture Model 3 game footage.
Although Sega Rally 2 uses a set of mixers and a DSB2, the theory is basically the same for your scenario, I get my sound from the mixer outputting to the main front speakers, and all you want to do is extract sound from CN7 to both the cab and to a separate subwoofer.
View: https://youtu.be/IQSv1BahAH8?si=1OX2v_1GvISqxSlR
Although Sega Rally 2 uses a set of mixers and a DSB2, the theory is basically the same for your scenario, I get my sound from the mixer outputting to the main front speakers, and all you want to do is extract sound from CN7 to both the cab and to a separate subwoofer.
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When you say multitude of amps and power supplies you mean the Sega amp I posted above and the PSU I would need for it?
I use small Yamaha powered subs on the cabs I have subs connected to.
I’m good with skipping that and just using an adapter cable to split the audio signal.
Currently my CN8 out on the filter board goes to CN5 on the cabinet IO board.
I use small Yamaha powered subs on the cabs I have subs connected to.
I’m good with skipping that and just using an adapter cable to split the audio signal.
Currently my CN8 out on the filter board goes to CN5 on the cabinet IO board.
The suggestion of bypassing the Blast city AMP, using another amp and another PSU to power that amp is what I'm referring to. I'm not criticising the idea, it's just seems a whole lot of work for not much benefit.
The sound on the Blast City is pretty good imo, especially when the speakers haven't degraded. Using a Naomi amp to power Blast City speakers is asking for trouble imo, you run the real risk of damaging them.
I'm not against upgrading sound in a cab as I've upgraded the speakers on my Astro City cabs and also upgraded the speakers on my Sega Rally 2 cab to those from a Model 2 Sega Rally 1 cab. I also swapped out one of the Amps in Sega Rally 2 for one that has EQ jumpers, not sure what cab it originally came from but it sounds much better!
Anyway, good luck with your projects as I enjoy reading your updates.
The sound on the Blast City is pretty good imo, especially when the speakers haven't degraded. Using a Naomi amp to power Blast City speakers is asking for trouble imo, you run the real risk of damaging them.
I'm not against upgrading sound in a cab as I've upgraded the speakers on my Astro City cabs and also upgraded the speakers on my Sega Rally 2 cab to those from a Model 2 Sega Rally 1 cab. I also swapped out one of the Amps in Sega Rally 2 for one that has EQ jumpers, not sure what cab it originally came from but it sounds much better!
Anyway, good luck with your projects as I enjoy reading your updates.
The suggestion of bypassing the Blast city AMP, using another amp and another PSU to power that amp is what I'm referring to. I'm not criticising the idea, it's just seems a whole lot of work for not much benefit.
The sound on the Blast City is pretty good imo, especially when the speakers haven't degraded. Using a Naomi amp to power Blast City speakers is asking for trouble imo, you run the real risk of damaging them.
I'm not against upgrading sound in a cab as I've upgraded the speakers on my Astro City cabs and also upgraded the speakers on my Sega Rally 2 cab to those from a Model 2 Sega Rally 1 cab. I also swapped out one of the Amps in Sega Rally 2 for one that has EQ jumpers, not sure what cab it originally came from but it sounds much better!
Anyway, good luck with your projects as I enjoy reading your updates.
Thank you for the advice! I was trying to see if I could find a JST-NH 4 pin splitter to purchase online to plug the existing VF3 audio cable into and then use the other available end to connect an RCA cable to. Do you know if they make these? I see some but I don't think they are "NH" specifically
Here's another thing you could try, modify the Amp inside your Blast City PSU so it has EQ settings. I'm not sure what would be involved, but I'd imagine jumper headers and resistors is all it needs?
Sorry about the bad pic, but the Amp is tucked under the foot plate which is bolted to the frame!
Hopefully you can see the jumpers on the populated Amp. Sega Rally 2 has 2 Amps, one for the front and one for the rear.
And I'm sure the amps are the same Amps that are in the Blast City PSU.
Amps don't seem to be the same.
Sorry about the bad pic, but the Amp is tucked under the foot plate which is bolted to the frame!
Hopefully you can see the jumpers on the populated Amp. Sega Rally 2 has 2 Amps, one for the front and one for the rear.
Amps don't seem to be the same.
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I've never seen a splitter, I've made all the looms myself needed to capture gameplay footage and sound.
Some are not pretty, but they work so I'm happy with that.
If you have a soldering iron you could solder wires to RCA jacks yourself or use something like this:
https://www.diy.com/departments/2x-...able-end-plug-cctv-audio/5055538143625_BQ.prd
.
There's only 4 wires, 'L-' 'L+' 'R-' 'R+', as long as the - and + match you are good to go. One thing I would also check is to see if you get sound from CN7 and CN8 at the same time. I don't have VF3 at hand so I don't know if outputs to both front and rear at the same time.
As I said, I think you are over complicating things a little.
Reason I was looking for an adapter is I'm terrible at crimping and making my own cables. So I thought a cheap splitter of some sort then I would solder the RCA to one end and be done.
I also didn't realize there were 2 sound outputs CN7 and CN8 until just now. oops.
So maybe I can just connect the sub to CN7 if it outputs sound from both at the same time?
I also didn't realize there were 2 sound outputs CN7 and CN8 until just now. oops.
So maybe I can just connect the sub to CN7 if it outputs sound from both at the same time?
Yes, CN8 is for front and CN7 is for rear.
So if you get output from CN7 (Rear) at the same time as CN8 (Front), then just source an old 4 pin JST NH cable and buy some of those screw terminal RCA jacks and you are good to go.
So if you get output from CN7 (Rear) at the same time as CN8 (Front), then just source an old 4 pin JST NH cable and buy some of those screw terminal RCA jacks and you are good to go.
With a quality crimping tool it's made much easier. With a bad tool, crimping is a nightmare!
I used to make my own custom PC cabling and in the end I bought a nice but cheap crimper, I've had it way over 10 years and I still use it to this day. It seems it's sold out now, but this was the one I think. It was called the Lutro0 customs crimper back when I bought it.
https://mainframecustom.com/shop/cable-sleeving/cable-sleeving-tools/mc-ratchet-crimper/
I used to make my own custom PC cabling and in the end I bought a nice but cheap crimper, I've had it way over 10 years and I still use it to this day. It seems it's sold out now, but this was the one I think. It was called the Lutro0 customs crimper back when I bought it.
https://mainframecustom.com/shop/cable-sleeving/cable-sleeving-tools/mc-ratchet-crimper/
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So I did a test and got sound from CN7. It was weird I got sound effects and music but it didn't seem like all of the music. Like just part of it. The guitar was missing I think lol.
I'll see what I can come up with. Thanks!
I'll see what I can come up with. Thanks!
JohnRambo'sKnife
Champion
The image on your Blast looks so good.
Hey Super Arcade Friends,
I picked up a Sega ST-V board from eBay. Currently looking at the newest Dark Soft Multi for it. I also am looking at the stereo kick harness linked below. I am trying to find online the difference between the version A and version B - ST-V boards - so I can order the correct stereo kick harness adapter. Anyone have a link or a way to discern and A or B board? Or should I just upload a pic of it here?
https://www.arcade-projects.com/thr...d-on-boards-everten.16347/page-22#post-426591
Edit : Whoops its right there on Everten's Shewfly page
I picked up a Sega ST-V board from eBay. Currently looking at the newest Dark Soft Multi for it. I also am looking at the stereo kick harness linked below. I am trying to find online the difference between the version A and version B - ST-V boards - so I can order the correct stereo kick harness adapter. Anyone have a link or a way to discern and A or B board? Or should I just upload a pic of it here?
https://www.arcade-projects.com/thr...d-on-boards-everten.16347/page-22#post-426591
Edit : Whoops its right there on Everten's Shewfly page
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