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CPS2 Digitial AV kit for CPS-III

Happy New Year everyone!!!

As promised here are the BOM and Gerbers for these PCBs. Do with them as you wish! Please improve upon my work and help the community.


BOM
Mouser #:Mfr. #:Desc.:Order Qty.
538-15-91-210015-91-2100Headers & Wire Housings Headers & Wire Housings C-GRID 10 CKT BKWY H2
649-F52R-1A7H1-11020F52R-1A7H1-11020FFC & FPC Connectors FFC & FPC Connectors F52R-1A7H1-11020-Slider type1
640-FFC3A20-20-GFFC3A20-20-GFFC & FPC Connectors FFC & FPC Connectors 20W, 1mm FFC Con, Vert, H5.5mm, Gold, SMT, T&R1
710-686620050001686620050001FFC / FPC Jumper Cables FFC / FPC Jumper Cables WR-FFC 1.00mm Type 1 20Pin Length 50mm1
571-2015357-42015357-4RF Cable Assemblies RF Cable Assemblies C/A, UMCC/UMCC, 1.37 OD CABLE, 200MM LON1


Settings I used for part 1
Layers : 2
Material : FR-4
PCB Thickness : 0.6 mm (this helps for being able to solder to the chips on the CPS3 - you might be able to get away with 0.8 )
Surface Finish: HASL(with lead)
Half-cut/Castellated holes :Yes (castellated holes is a requirement!)
Tented vias: Yes (helps to cover anything on the backside of this board since it will be placed directly on the CPS3 (prevent shorts)

Settings I used for part 2
Base Material: FR-4
Layers: 2
PCB Thickness: 1.6mm
Surface Finish: HASL(with lead)


If you really want to go crazy - do enig finish for both parts
 

Attachments

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This board worked great - was easy to install (everything lined up perfectly!).

I got everything put back together and while the video works PERFECTLY - I am not getting any audio, but I am getting audio off the JAMMA edge.

I have continuity from the WS, BCK and DAT points on the helper board all the way to the DigiAv board.

J3/J5/J6 are bridged.

Anything else I should be checking?

Matt
 
This board worked great - was easy to install (everything lined up perfectly!).

I got everything put back together and while the video works PERFECTLY - I am not getting any audio, but I am getting audio off the JAMMA edge.

I have continuity from the WS, BCK and DAT points on the helper board all the way to the DigiAv board.

J3/J5/J6 are bridged.

Anything else I should be checking?

Matt
I'm going to ask some dumb questions but they may help.

I used some EXTREMELY short wires to connect WS and DAT to the pads right below (see pic). What are you using to connect these?
1740893498113.png


What wire are you using for BCK? You MUST use the a shielded coaxial cable like the one I originally provided. Make sure the GND wire is actually grounded (test with a multimeter) You CAN cut it shorter as well OR solder it directly to the pads on the bottom board if you wish (I didn't need to do that but I am just putting some ideas out there).
1740893873219.png

Also - did you flash the firmware with the CPS3 firmware?

Lastly - the audio comes out as
  • 24bit/48kHz audio output
Per the github page:

https://github.com/marqs85/cps2_digiav/tree/master/board/cps3

I had problems connecting through my Fire TV cube. Sometimes audio would play fine and other times it wouldn't play at all (just dead silence). I finally just connected the HDMI directly to my TV and have had zero issues (I am also using ARC to connect to a soundbar so that throws some more complexity into it).

Makes me wonder if the 24-bit audio or 48kHz stream could have some compatibility issues with certain devices.
 
Hey @djanice1980!

Ok - so originally, I used the shielded coax that came with the kit, and wired that up to the DigiAV board. I used two small loops (< 10mm) of kynar wire to connect the WS and DAT from the daughterboard to the main DigiAV board. That was on the initial install - as I said, everything worked great upon bootup, just no sound out the HDMI (but Jamma is ok).

I then wired up WS and DAT directly from the motherboard to the spots on the DigiAV (bypassing the daughterboard just in case) - and that didn't do anything different. Then I wired up a piece of coax for BCK - direct from the motherboard to the DigiAV - again, no difference at all.

Then I went ahead and re-programmed the DigiAV board with the CPS3 program to make sure - although it came from VGP as CPS3.

So - after all of that, still no audio. And I did have good continuity from the motherboard all way up to the DigiAV board pads.

I am a little stumped at this point - unless the DigiAV is just bad, or one of the audio components on it.

And last but not least - I am running it through my tink4k - but you bring up a good point, let me try running it directly into my TV.

Matt
 
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Yeah - just tried it going directly into my TV - that also didn't work.
Sounds like you have done everything I would have done. Even bypassing the entire audio section of the kit and going straight to the hdmi board.

I have been where you are with a CPS2. Had an issue where the darksoft kit would NOT program it no matter what I did. So frustrating.
 
@mathewbeall sent the board to me, I removed the install including the qsb and redid the entire install wired. Although my work was neat and I verified every connection I still had no audio from the HDMI port. I spend a few more mins and found out there was a short between jumper 5 to 6 and both of them to ground. I removed the solder from the jumper and tested the buffer side of the jumpers and found no short then tested the fpga side of the jumpers and there was a short. This let me know the fpga was the issue, I verified my theory by using the cps2digital av schematics and another working hdmi board I had laying around. I had an old cps2 digital av I hand built and used for parts, took the Cyclone 10 from it. I was thinking of using it but realized I had a brand new chip and once I found it I used it. I did not feel like undoing my nice install so I worked around it using low melt and kapton to remove the FPGA without damaging anything. Then once I installed the new FPGA I cleaned and checked all legs for shorts and everything checked out I ran the board and re-flashed the firmware and it's all working now, sorry for the wall of text.
https://x.com/Cruzlink2/status/1901937044865093657
 
Wow! I am sorry you had to go through that but….in-place fpga swap?! That’s impressive!!! Install is clean too!
 
I am slightly mollified that had that FPGA been good, then my install would have worked flawlessly - although not quite as pretty as the work Jose does!
For sure it would have worked. I just wanted a neat secure install that left room for heatsinks for both ram and ppu. As for the FPGA swap I had already put in so much time I did not wanna undo my install lol. I had this project on my mind and found my spare board and my brand new fpga so I said why the hell not, so it now.
 
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