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RC de Go! Harness

Controls will not work through the supergun and Saturn uses a decoder fir the signals as far as I remember, so you would have to directly wire the 2 pots in the controller to the G-Net PCB.
 
nnap said:
Controls will not work through the supergun and Saturn uses a decoder fir the signals as far as I remember, so you would have to directly wire the 2 pots in the controller to the G-Net PCB.
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Your right it would have to be hacked and rewired. I think the PS1 version would be the best candidate since they are more common and usually sell for less so no need to hack up an SS controller. The Playstation version should feel at home with the Gnet. A little rewiring should get you by instead of having to start from scratch. The wireless controller is a very cool idea but i was looking for something more get up and go. The time put in splicing the wires and connecting them directly to the pots should be a fairly minimal task.

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The image above is currently set to $60...

Think the biggest issue is how many pots are onboard, and how those pots are being interfaced.
The SS ports on your supergun are likely digital only...
That said, almost all the SS steering wheels translate the analog pots to digital signal.
It’s a nice unit, so you could rewire the post directly and then adapt to the GNet board. Plug and play this is not.
 
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nam9 said:
The image above is currently set to $60...

Think the biggest issue is how many pots are aonboard, and how those pots are being interfaced.
The SS ports on your supergun are likely digital only...
That said, almost all the SS steering wheels translate the analog pots to digital signal.
Itrs a nice unit, so you could rewire the post directly and then adapt to the GNet board. Plug and play this is not.
Click to expand...
I could get the Playstation controller right now for $35. I just purchased it and came under $40 shipped. Not bad. I'll know more when I receive it if it has pots or some kind of optic sensor.
 
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I think it would be difficult to modify a device where the accelerator and brake are not on the same axis.
The RCdeGO! has a single analog axis that handles the accelerator and brake.
 
mokona said:
I think it would be difficult to modify a device where the accelerator and brake are not on the same axis.
The RCdeGO! has a single analog axis that handles the accelerator and brake.
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Well just for your info or anyone else's. This controller consists of 3 pots. I would have to figure out what their ratings are and go from there. I could try and just utilize the 1 trigger pot and the steering pot alone then figure out if I can mod them with resistors or replace them. Take some clever wiring to utilize both trigger pots.

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I am interested in how to distribute the two resistors across the left and right width of an analog axis.
 
mokona said:
I am interested in how to distribute the two resistors across the left and right width of an analog axis.
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Ill know more when I hook it to the real hardware. Hopefully the game loads up. The photo in this thread shows 5k potentiometers so shouldn't be too difficult to replicate the signal. Constructing a cable from old cat wire now.
 
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It might be a challenge as it expects one pot for throttle/brake but it will be really great as a racing controller for other racing games that require separate pots for throttle and brake.
 
nnap said:
It might be a challenge as it expects one pot for throttle/brake but it will be really great as a racing controller for other racing games that require separate pots for throttle and brake.
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I could try to utilize the one pot as both. The circuit board is just for the traces. I could actually remove it and the pots are normal ones with a thin top nut, although they are about half inch wide. I didnt have a hard time finding 5k pots in that size on the net.

The trigger is just attached to the one pot. There is a second trigger thats easily removable. As you can see in the photo only one trigger is necessary anyhow. But yes I could make custom cables to work with other consoles/games that are analog type.

I went ahead and took a photo of the mechanism so you can take a closer look. The second pot is completely not needed.

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One more photo of the circuit board and potentiometers. Tip: Try not to lose orientation upon reassembly.

Yes I did this all on a whim. I work a full time job and regularly mod consoles in my spare time. (hobby)

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Guessing this is the calibration screen.

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Very helpful thread. I picked up a gnet a bit ago and am watching this learning so I can set up rcdego myself.
 
Releasing the trigger acts as a brake, so it seems easier to play with than the official controller.
 
mokona said:
Releasing the trigger acts as a brake, so it seems easier to play with than the official controller.
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If your talking about the Hori controller yeah works the same way. By removing the second trigger it eliminates having to pull forward at all just releasing the trigger works as well. Third pot was not needed and is great if you need a spare. The potentiometers were 5k so they worked great. Be a good source to harvest these 5k pots.
 
So you just removed the trigger and pot, and that's it? It works 100% fine with the game? If so, time to buy two of those controllers.. :)
 
Sp33dFr34k said:
So you just removed the trigger and pot, and that's it? It works 100% fine with the game? If so, time to buy two of those controllers.. :)
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Yeah just like the photo. Im buying another controller to harvest the 5k mini pots. I played a full game didnt place that well but finished none the less. I wasnt really trying. It works fine if you wire it up exactly like the official one. I had to desolder them from the pcb though since the traces were not correct for this particular wiring. It doesnt effect a thing since there are alignment holes that keep the pots in the correct position when fastened with a flat nut.

Yeah this game is alot of fun. I recommend it. Im amazed how well it simulates a real rc car experience in a game..
 
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