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KaPH33n

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A friend asked me to replicate some harness for him. Here are my notes in case someone else needs to do this.

0lsY9_e78JWIN6K8pP0N2M33JVcXA7HcxpGDYvAc0FWb-XLZkT.png


4 connectors
4 conductors
All wire is 22 AWG stranded
All connections are direct 1:1
Overall Length: 32”

Diagram:

Code:
V1.1 <-----RED--------> Z.1
V1.2 <---\ 
          \WHITE\   
                 \----> A.2
V2.1 <-----YELLOW-----> A.3
V2.2 <-----BLACK/W----> A.10

Pinouts:

V1 (White): JST SMP-02V-NC
  1. Red
  2. White

V2 (Black): JST SMP-02V-BC
  1. Yellow
  2. Black/White

A (White): Kyocera 608263310815000
  1. NC
  2. White
  3. Yellow
  4. NC
  5. NC
  6. NC
  7. NC
  8. NC
  9. NC
  10. Black/White

Z (White): JST H4P-SHF-AA
  1. Red
  2. NC
  3. NC
  4. NC
 

nam9

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Any leads on sourcing the RC controllers?
Do you think an actual RC controller be converted??
 

nnap

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Any leads on sourcing the RC controllers?
Do you think an actual RC controller be converted??
I have done that. As KaPH33n said, it is just two pots that are hooked up. I also used a button on the remote as the start button.
 

neokoen

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I was trying to wire up a little board for the controller that would allow one to use a regular RC controller and receiver: PT01B.
From what I gather it would just be wiring up to the correct locations on the board and then probably tuning the controller trims to centre the output voltage replacing the function of the pots.
Unfortunately my G-NET board does not run RC-de-go so I never was able to test it, https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/go-by-rc-rc-de-go-booting.14964/

bonus: if this works it would be nice to incorporate with the sound-out board from @everten
 

KaPH33n

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Thanks for posting that pic @neokoen . I wasn't sure where the connectors went on the board, as I didn't have those in hand. Now I see why the connections to the analog (A) and the power (Z) are slightly different lengths. The original harness gives a little more length for the Z to get to the middle of the pcb.
 
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