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twistedsymphony

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Lets start a project idea thread.... Post up what kinds of 3D printed parts people want to see?

The one rule I'd have is Don't suggest something just because you're too cheap to buy the original. In most cases the 3D printed version will pale in comparison and ultimately not be worth the time investment over just buying the right part.

If there are parts that are very difficult to find, or you have an idea on how the design could be improved, or you have an idea for something that doesn't exist... that's the kind of thing I'd like to see posted here.

I'd be happy to help model and test-print anything that I'm able to do :thumbup:
 
I'll start with a case for the CPS3 cartridge :)

Let me explain: instead of cutting one (original) to change the battery easily (check Mitsu video) lowering the chance to kill the cart, lets make one case that can allow soldering/desoldering the battery with a minimum risk

What do you think ?
 
I'll start with a case for the CPS3 cartridge :)

Let me explain: instead of cutting one (original) to change the battery easily (check Mitsu video) lowering the chance to kill the cart, lets make one case that can allow soldering/desoldering the battery with a minimum risk

What do you think ?
I don't own a CPS3, do you have a link to this video?

The hardest part is getting the dimensions right so it fits properly. I'd really need access to a setup so I can pull dimensions print, test fit and adjust.

arcade-project ash tray
that wouldn't be all that difficult.
 
You can find it in this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxW7zkXEW_A

For the right dimensions, I'll try to google it after work or maybe take the dimensions of one of mine

If any other member would like to help, he is welcome of course :)
I just watched the video and get the idea, but there's no way I'd be able to make a battery swap cart case that fits snuggly to prevent wiggle without having a CPS3 setup in front of me to do test fits and dial it in... even then there's enough variation between printers that if I get it printing great on my machine a print made by someone else might not be tight enough or might be too tight to fit.

I'm wondering why you need to bother soldering while attached to a CPS3 board. why not take the case off, solder on some leads to a molex connector, plug it into a PC PSU to power it while you swap the battery without fear of wiggle and without any case at all, then desolder the molex once you're done...
 
lemonyvengence made a cps3 cart swap box pci header and power. i believe it was him
 
I know the size will be a problem but...

I want a printed clone of a cps1.5 plastic shell to put all my cps1 boards inside.

1181242154101.jpg


Just think about how cool it would look to have color labels for each game made up.
 
that's not an easy thing to print... size aside, with FDM style 3D printers (which is what the consumer grade ones are) you want to avoid having to print overhangs (area of the print with nothing underneath it)... I don't see any way to print that thing without a massive amount of overhang just about everywhere...
 
You're going to have that problem trying to duplicate just about anything. That's why I suggested avoiding repos in this thread.

designing new parts from scratch for 3D printing works because you can play to the strengths and weakenesses of the 3D printing process.

existing plastic parts were designed for the strengths and weaknesses of the injection molding process, which are completely different than those of FDM printing. As a result trying to duplicate an injection molded design with an FDM printer is often extremely difficult if not impossible. Similarly copying an FDM design using injection modling is also often difficult if not impossible.
 
Side mounted holsters for light guns...consoles and arcade (accommodating SEGA Stunners, PSOne Justifiers, Guncons 1&2, etc). Something like this:

https://amazingdiy.wordpress.com/2011/07/15/mame-cabinet-lightgun/


I have an idea where I want to one day create a thin light gun console cabinet with a 32" CRT (from storage) at the top and each shelf having a video game system with the light guns permanently plugged in and having the guns in holders on the side of the shelf. I bought a lot of light gun games back in the day and before I ever thought owning arcade gear was possible. Any time I want to play one it is a big hassle to dig out the guns and pull out the CRT. I want to make a more permanent home for all that gear and those games.

Not sure how I'll manage all the cords yet...but the idea included having various light guns in holsters bolted onto the side of the cabinet.

I'm not sure if their is another solution out there for side mounting...Happ seems to sell top mounted ones.
 
Side mounted holsters for light guns...consoles and arcade (accommodating SEGA Stunners, PSOne Justifiers, Guncons 1&2, etc). Something like this:

https://amazingdiy.wordpress.com/2011/07/15/mame-cabinet-lightgun/
That wouldn't be all too design. if you have some basic dimension (how deep, wide and tall you wan the pocket) I can draw something up.

I have an idea where I want to one day create a thin light gun console cabinet with a 32" CRT (from storage) at the top and each shelf having a video game system with the light guns permanently plugged in and having the guns in holders on the side of the shelf. I bought a lot of light gun games back in the day and before I ever thought owning arcade gear was possible. Any time I want to play one it is a big hassle to dig out the guns and pull out the CRT. I want to make a more permanent home for all that gear and those games.

Not sure how I'll manage all the cords yet...but the idea included having various light guns in holsters bolted onto the side of the cabinet.

I'm not sure if their is another solution out there for side mounting...Happ seems to sell top mounted ones.
You might want to take a look at my light gun project. I'll be running emulated versions of all the classics on a modern display. I've already got the arcade gun hardware working on the PC.
Shooting Gallery: Sega Type-II IR on a 108" front projection setup.

Wii mote IR cameras suck for light guns because they only work on 2 point tracking which means that as soon as you step 1 step to the left or to the right, it's no longer in calibration... Nintendo design them to be used as a pointing device with an on-screen pointer (like a mouse) so they have no accuracy in terms of lining up with what the gun is actually pointing at. The same way moving your mouse 5cm doesn't mean it will move 5cm on the screen... What you need is a POSITIONAL device where the mechanism is designed to track movement 1 to 1 between the real world and the screen, the Wii remote is just not designed to do that.

you can get the Wii remote calibrated for a specific arm position just like you could theoretically tune your mouse to move 1:1 with the pointer on the screen but as soon as you move (ie: like picking up the mouse) the calibration is lost and would need to be re-done.

adjustable pcb holder
adjustable pcb holder
Yes 100% to this, I would like to see an adjustable PCB holder/storage solution that could be used with different size pcbs and let you store your PCBs vertically.
I would like to see an adjustable PCB holder/storage solution that could be used with different size pcbs and let you store your PCBs vertically
I 2nd this project!
I'm not really clear on what you're all looking for with this PCB holder idea.
 
twistedsymphony said:
You might want to take a look at my light gun project. I'll be running emulated versions of all the classics on a modern display. I've already got the arcade gun hardware working on the PC.
Shooting Gallery: Sega Type-II IR on a 108" front projection setup.


I've been ghost reading your thread with great admiration. I even watched one of the videos you posted with the guns working on your test bench. I would love to have a set-up like that - especially for the larger than life size. I don't have any light gun cabs or pcb boards yet but rather just wanted to leverage all the purchases I already made on the console side of things.

When I get the chance (it might not be for a few weeks) I'll dig out the various light guns and give them a measure.
 
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