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twistedsymphony

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CPS2 B-board communication port plugs. I could use three of these and I am sure others are missing them as well.
I don't own a CPS2, do you have a good picture of what you're talking about?

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On a related note. Anyone have a cheap CPS2 for use with a Multi? I keep getting requests for CPS2 stuff so maybe I should buy one.
 

fluxcore

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I've been wracking my brains trying to work out how to design a useful Sega Nomad battery back/powerback replacement that will allow for reasonably arbitrarily-sized USB power banks to be fitted (since the nomad with a LCD replacement can easily run of 5v). (There's kind of a maximum of 51mm width to fit though, the length of the original AA batteries).

Needs to be able to slot into the grooves that secure the battery back, and have some method of securing the power bank. I guess it needs some small lip at the bottom (and maybe top) to stop the power bank slipping down or up off the nomad, and something to hold it in place. I'm thinking maybe two long holes along the sides which will allow a velcro strap to be used.

There's also a small notch on the middle bottom of the nomad which I guess is used to lock the battery back in place, trying to work out how to utilise that as well.

Printing it would be annoying due to the hooks that slide into the slots, would probably need quite a bit of support scaffolding to print it 'flat'. Considering having a two-piece print so it could be printed sideways, but that would severely reduce the solidity of the design.

Never done any 3d design before, so would love someone else to come up with the solution, lol!
 

twistedsymphony

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I've been wracking my brains trying to work out how to design a useful Sega Nomad battery back/powerback replacement that will allow for reasonably arbitrarily-sized USB power banks to be fitted
The last time I saw a Nomad was when they first came out while I was i grade school so I had to look up what the battery pack looked like.

am I correct in assuming you're just looking for an adapter that lets you use a Micro USB for power?

Looking at how it attaches there are a few ways to print it but only one way that will hold up.

The stress point is going to be along the hook, which means you can't have the layers of the print parallel to the hooks if you don't want them to break. So that means you're going to be printing the "pack" upright so that the layers are perpendicular to the stress across the hooks... and yes you'll need need to use supports for this. they'll be tall to reach the upper hooks but not too large overall.

I'd probably design the pack in 2 parts, with the back, bottom sides and hooks on one part, and then the front and top on the other part, and have them slide together similar to my CPS2 LCD, or Pi LCD enclosures. That will allow for minimal overhangs in the printing and you'll be able to enclose all of the electronics in the print without any fasteners.


As usual I can design this but someone needs to provide me with or let me borrow all of the hardware that the enclosure touches so I can take dimensions myself and do test fitments.

Right now though I'm at least a few weeks behind on my print schedule and I have other designs I want to develop so it would be a month or so before I could get to this.
 

kuze

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CPS2 B-board communication port plugs. I could use three of these and I am sure others are missing them as well.
pretty sure someone already designed those and they are available for purchase
 

ekorz

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Anyone have an adjustable pcb mount inside their cab? Avoid the crappy pcb feet entirely... I could see installing a couple pcb holders and having one side slide in/out to accommodate the variable size of pcbs. Something like this though only one side would need to move.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2990206
 

brizzo

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@ekorz have you seen these pcb holders that came in dynamo cabs?

34062991_10213935007802044_4849314395567685632_n.jpg
 

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fluxcore

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fluxcore

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I've been wracking my brains trying to work out how to design a useful Sega Nomad battery back/powerback replacement that will allow for reasonably arbitrarily-sized USB power banks to be fitted
The last time I saw a Nomad was when they first came out while I was i grade school so I had to look up what the battery pack looked like.
am I correct in assuming you're just looking for an adapter that lets you use a Micro USB for power?

Looking at how it attaches there are a few ways to print it but only one way that will hold up.

The stress point is going to be along the hook, which means you can't have the layers of the print parallel to the hooks if you don't want them to break. So that means you're going to be printing the "pack" upright so that the layers are perpendicular to the stress across the hooks... and yes you'll need need to use supports for this. they'll be tall to reach the upper hooks but not too large overall.

I'd probably design the pack in 2 parts, with the back, bottom sides and hooks on one part, and then the front and top on the other part, and have them slide together similar to my CPS2 LCD, or Pi LCD enclosures. That will allow for minimal overhangs in the printing and you'll be able to enclose all of the electronics in the print without any fasteners.


As usual I can design this but someone needs to provide me with or let me borrow all of the hardware that the enclosure touches so I can take dimensions myself and do test fitments.

Right now though I'm at least a few weeks behind on my print schedule and I have other designs I want to develop so it would be a month or so before I could get to this.
Thanks for the insight, some good things to think about!

I actually purchased a usb power pack today that will fit in the space really well, my plan is to replace the brightness wheel (not needed with an LCD replacement) on the bottom of the nomad with a micro usb port, then orient the power pack to allow a really short right angled usb->right angled micro usb cable to connect to the nomad. It has a full-size USB port for discharge and a micro usb for charging, both on the same end.

My vague plan was to have the print pretty open on the back, top, and bottom (i.e. not enclosed), in order to allow more variation in sizes of USB power packs that can fit. The power packs are always encased anyway, so it's not like there needs to be any electronics protection. Then it becomes a question of how to secure, hence why I was considering velcro strap.

With your suggestion I'd still want to come up with some method of allowing variable sizes, so there'd need to be some kind of custom shim to stop the power pack sliding around inside. Or maybe the print piece that comprises the bottom can be 'universal' and then the front/top print can be custom to suit the specific size of the power pack. Hrm, that might work... will keep thinking :)
 

suverman

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How feasible is it to make a CPS1 and CPS1.5 cases?

I just got a CPS2 B board the plastic was smashed but that protected the PCB.

Maybe like a CPS1.5 repro for CPS1.5 and CPS1?


Edit: Also a provision for a fan would be a bonus!
 
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twistedsymphony

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How feasible is it to make a CPS1 and CPS1.5 cases?
most printers can't make something that big. my new printer will be able to (can do up to 600x600x600mm)

However, the cost to print something that big wouldn't be worth it. I'd probably have to charge close to $100 for something that big given the amount of material and print time.
 

suverman

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When I get a DS multi it could be an expense well spent - I mean CAVE card boxes cost more than that and they aren't even functional :[

Important question for me is (I have no idea) will these 3D printed cases have the same strength of say the CPS2 cases? I might be interested in couple to be honest. That might not be economical for you - I dont know whats the economy of scale is like.


Also I have 2x Cave 1000B boards and 1x Cave 1000D board, I wouldn't mind an enclosure like the ArcadeSD case just so that i dont have handle the bare board by hand. Again if you have more people interested it might be good, I would certainly get those. Only concern would be if the casing is going to be safe for the PCB's (ESD safe I think)?
 
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twistedsymphony

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Important question for me is (I have no idea) will these 3D printed cases have the same strength of say the CPS2 cases?
Hard to say.

From a pure material standpoint FDM 3D printed plastic parts are not as strong as injection molded plastic parts.

so if you had a rod made with FDM 3D printing and then another injection molded rod made the same size and with the same material, the 3D printed part will always break first, simply the nature of the process.

However, with 3D printing you can improve the design, so make the plastic thicker in areas where it needs it, or shaped in way to help strengthen it.

I've said it many times that I don't like to make "reproductions" of existing plastic parts, because those parts are designed in a way that make injection molding easier/better looking/stronger, which also tends to be designs that make 3D printing harder/uglier/weaker. Instead if you design new from scratch with 3D printing in mind you can make parts that print well, look good and are very strong.... but you will never get that by simply copying Injection molded designs.

I might be interested in couple to be honest. That might not be economical for you - I dont know whats the economy of scale is like.
There is no economy of scale for 3D printing. when it costs $2 to print 1 part then it will cost $10,000 to print 5000 parts and $20,000 to make 10,000 parts.

Injection molding has economy of scale because it costs a $4000 investment to make the molds and pennies for material. So it costs $4000 to make 1 part and then it costs $4050 to make 5000 parts, and then it costs $4100 to make 10,000 parts. That's why consumer products are injection molded because they're making may thousands of them they can get economy of scale. there is not much you can do with 3D printing to lower costs at scale... it's perfect for making a small number of items but very poor for making large quantities of items.


I might be interested in couple to be honest.
I plan on looking into making cases for CPS1, but they wont be 3D printed, they will use my new Vacuum Forming machine, it's still a long way off though.


Also I have 2x Cave 1000B boards and 1x Cave 1000D board, I wouldn't mind an enclosure like the ArcadeSD case just so that i dont have handle the bare board by hand
Now that I have a new, larger 3D printer, I do plan on designing a 3D printed case for the Cave1000 PCBs, I think the PCB is small enough and the PCB value is high enough that some people would be interested in a case, even if it costs $60. Though hopefully I can make them cheaper than that.

This wasn't possible with my old printer, it's too small. Hopefully my new printer will be up and running within the next few weeks and I can start designing some new, larger products like a Cave1000 case :)
 

suverman

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I've said it many times that I don't like to make "reproductions" of existing plastic parts, because those parts are designed in a way that make injection molding easier/better looking/stronger, which also tends to be designs that make 3D printing harder/uglier/weaker. Instead if you design new from scratch with 3D printing in mind you can make parts that print well, look good and are very strong.... but you will never get that by simply copying Injection molded designs.

I plan on looking into making cases for CPS1, but they wont be 3D printed, they will use my new Vacuum Forming machine, it's still a long way off though.
I didn't mean a repro actually, basically a case that would stand the shock of moving around the CPS1 setup without me flexing the actual boards and ease of store as well. Definitely the design would be driven by your process not injection mould process. I find the CPS1 boards to be very fragile.


Now that I have a new, larger 3D printer, I do plan on designing a 3D printed case for the Cave1000 PCBs, I think the PCB is small enough and the PCB value is high enough that some people would be interested in a case, even if it costs $60. Though hopefully I can make them cheaper than that.
This wasn't possible with my old printer, it's too small. Hopefully my new printer will be up and running within the next few weeks and I can start designing some new, larger products like a Cave1000 case :)
Thats fantastic I shall keep an eye on the thread.

Also this might sound outlandish but is it a good idea to have detachable caps on the Jamma edge instead of it being exposed? That way the boards can be protected from all sides. You would just pull out the cap like a pen cap to expose the JAMMA edge :P I am thinking it would very easy to store if its designed like that. Something like the below - sorry to do this to your model but wanted to get the point across :)
muhdg7.jpg
 
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twistedsymphony

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Thats fantastic I shall keep an eye on the thread.
Also this might sound outlandish but is it a good idea to have detachable caps on the Jamma edge instead of it being exposed? That way the boards can be protected from all sides. You would just pull out the cap like a pen cap to expose the JAMMA edge :P I am thinking it would very easy to store if its designed like that. Something like the below - sorry to do this to your model but wanted to get the point across :)
2ed17oz.jpg
Lions3 makes a JAMMA cap: https://lions3.com/product/jamma-cap/

I don't really know how much protection this offers to be honest I think it's more to keep dust off of it than anything. IMO I'd be more worried about adding ware to the JAMMA edge than any benefit of protection it might provide.

the best way to protect the JAMMA edge would be to recess it into the case but that makes plugging it in more difficult and potentially incompatible with pass-through adapters or super guns.

My goal with cases is mostly to make them look nice and to protect small components like caps from getting ripped off, or from 2 PCBs side by side in storage from scratching up traces, obviously this might add extra protection from dropping a PCB but I don't think it's really economical to design a case to protect from that. You can still damage a PCB in a CPS2 case or even in a metal cage when you drop it. it's not something you can really protect such a large PCB against.
 
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