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Derick2k

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I was thinking of something along the lines of something like this, these are very basic designs, did them in like 5 minutes just to get some ideas going.

Cut out on the side would be for Jamma connection,etc..
This is a fixed design with maybe break-away tabs if needed, with holes for pcb mounting feets to install to.

2016-03-08_23-08-36.jpg

This design would have adjustable mounting rails?!

2016-03-08_22-58-58.jpg

2016-03-08_22-59-55.jpg
 

MissionFailed

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PCB holder/storage solution that could be used with different size pcbs and let you store your PCBs vertically.
nqXBqkX.jpg
ph7PrVk.jpg

More of a basic design for Storing PCBs vertically. Without side walls. You could use printed plastic instead of using plexiglass.

just trying to make it simple... but me....
fbc33fa0175722567cee455c55aa83ab.jpg
 
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jassin000

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That is a really shitty design.
Correct, so we need you to design us something better... That can be 3D printed! :D

More of a basic design for Storing PCBs vertically. Without side walls. You could use printed plastic instead of using plexiglass.
I think MissionFailed may have nailed the design with this... Can it be printed however?
 

Derick2k

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More of a basic design for Storing PCBs vertically.
Looking good. Keep those ideas coming. We need a design that can easily adapt to being mounted vertically in a cab, but can also be stored vertically on a shelf for storage that can have one side to apply a label for identification.
 

twistedsymphony

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I think MissionFailed may have nailed the design with this... Can it be printed however?
not really...
size is a concern. i have a really big printer by most standards and the largest it can do is 10"x10", most consumer level printers are 8x8 or 6x6 that's not going to be large enough to make a platform for a PCB. Not to mention you'd probably be waiting 24 hours or so to print something that large and flat, it'd be cheaper and easier (and much stronger) to just drill some holes in plexiglas. Also the larger the printed item the more susceptible it is to warping or having the edges peel up mid-print which can ruin the print. The way to fix this is to use a printer with a heated enclosure... headed printer enclosures is a patented "technology" so to keep costs down most consumer grade printers don't have that and you only find it on expensive ($2K+) industrial printers.

now if you wanted to 3D print some custom shaped tabs or stand offs that would hold the PCB to the plexiglas or a piece of wood, that's something you could do.

Honestly based on the uses you described why not just mount the PCB to a piece of MDF just like they do for most cabinets, then get a similar sized piece of plexi and metal stand-offs large enough to place the plexi on the other side of the PCB... that would also allow you to attach other daughter-boards to the MDF with it to keep it all together.

If you wanted to do it all out of plexi you could do that too, but you're looking for someone with a laser cutter, not a 3D printer.
 
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MissionFailed

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We need a design that can easily adapt to being mounted vertically in a cab, but can also be stored vertically on a shelf for storage that can have one side to apply a label for identification.
now if you wanted to 3D print some custom shaped tabs or stand offs that would hold the PCB to the plexiglas or a piece of wood, that's something you could do.
I have seen Yt videos of people mounting the PCB to a plastic cutting board. In the cab they would have a bottom rail to slide the cutting board on. With a locking lever at the top of the cutting board.

May be use two same sized plastic cutting boards to mount the PCB between. Rather that Plexiglass.

One issue with a "quick change mech" - the larger the in Cab mounting harnesses is, the larger your PCB case size needs to be. locking you into one size.

May be using " Replacement drawer rails" would allow for different sized PCB cases. The closer together the rails are placed, the more varied sized PCB cases you could use. If need be, have multiple mounting rails in side the Cab for different sized PCB case.
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3d printing the sand-offs for the plexi sounds like the one specialized part. Unless someone finds something available. you could print a hanging plate for the stand off to stick a ID label to it. or even the side walls. (I don't know if it would be a heat issue to fully enclose a board., Minus the air flow?)
 

twistedsymphony

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doing some searching it looks like someone is already doing exactly what I suggested:

PCBs-Stacked.jpg
 

twistedsymphony

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I have seen Yt videos of people mounting the PCB to a plastic cutting board. In the cab they would have a bottom rail to slide the cutting board on. With a locking lever at the top of the cutting board.
This is not a new idea, it's actually how a lot of arcade machines mount their boards. except instead of a latch they just use one or two screws at the top. As a matter of fact every arcade machine I currently own mounts the boards in this way. Everything from Donkey Kong and Mortal Kombat, to DDR and Typing of the dead. the PCB is mounted on a board that slides into the machine. In a lot of cases you don't even need screws or a latch to hold it down.


(I don't know if it would be a heat issue to fully enclose a board., Minus the air flow?)
heat is absolutely an issue, which is why I suggested just a top and bottom piece of MDF. this would leave the sides open and still give you enough protection to stack them vertically on the shelf next to each other.

you could/should probably even cut holes above any large chips and heat syncs as well.

The thing is 1/4" MDF is cheap and strong, off-the-shelf stand-offs are cheap and strong (cheaper and strong than printing) and you're going to need to drill a different hole pattern for every board anyway.
 

MissionFailed

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heat is absolutely an issue, which is why I suggested just a top and bottom piece of MDF. this would leave the sides open and still give you enough protection to stack them vertically on the shelf next to each other.

you could/should probably even cut holes above any large chips and heat syncs as well.
ya, should have been more specific. didn't want to poo poo any ones enclosure ideas. just passively point out heat issues. The more open space above and around the board the better.

was listening to an arcade podcast last week...made mention to placing heat sinks on ICs...48:00 min into EP . might help in this instance. Looks like the current working solution is the best solution.
 

Derick2k

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I decided to buy a laser cutter and just do my own custom acrylic enclosures for my pcbs. I think this is the best way to go on this, 3D printing these things just doesnt make sense.
 

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Someone should make custom joystick body parts, so you didn't have to mod parts. For example, a JLF body that fits in HORI Tekken 6 joysticks would be neat.
 

jassin000

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Yup, thats what I plan on doing, just have to find low cost ESD sheets.
You could have some really nice game art printed up and placed between two sheets of 1/4" as the top panel.
The bottom just one piece of 1/2" to match the thickness of the top.
 

Derick2k

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You could have some really nice game art printed up and placed between two sheets of 1/4" as the top panel.
The bottom just one piece of 1/2" to match the thickness of the top.
That would be sweet, just need to get a laser cutter. Maybe even engrave a graphic/design of the game on the plexi. Many possibilities.
 

twistedsymphony

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Mitsurugi-w

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I'd like to have a pedal designed for use with games like 2 Spicy and HOTD4. It would just need to be two pieces and we would need to source a spring to use. It just triggers a digital switch for those games so should be pretty easy to rig up a button or switch inside.
 

twistedsymphony

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I'd like to have a pedal designed for use with games like 2 Spicy and HOTD4. It would just need to be two pieces and we would need to source a spring to use. It just triggers a digital switch for those games so should be pretty easy to rig up a button or switch inside.
I actually just watched a video where they 3D printed a ghostbusters trap complete with working pedal... they even did it on a Dremel printer.. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1394639

you could probably use that as a basis.

as for me, I just picked up a pair of Time Crisis pedals cheap on eBay :)
 

Mitsurugi-w

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That's actually cool as shit. LOL
 
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